Guest sandarapark Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 hi, i'm a newbie in the alpine world. in fact i havn't carved on a alpine set up before ( though i can carve pretty well on my soft boot set up)and i have never personaly seen an alpine board...ever....well only on photos. but yesterday i came across 2 boards that i think are alpine boards in a dusty corner of a sports shop...and beleive me, those boards were thickly covered with dust... long story short...i ended buying those boards for $100 (are the boards worth the money?) no information about the boards were available besides the name of the company that made them. does anybody know the specs of these boards? model? year? side cut radius? base material? does these boards come with beveled edges? if so, how much? are they good boards? i'm sure that the black one is an alpine board but the blue one...i'm not really sure if its an alpine board or just an old fashioned snowboard... here's the link to the pics thanks p.s. the blue one is 157 in length and the black one is 156 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Are two well known european brands in the snowboardsport. As to see from the pics the Nidecker is an allroundboard, the Oxygen is an allround slalomboard. The price you paid for it, is good. Both Nidecker and Oxygen are topnotchbrands. If the boards are well treated and the base and sides are okay, you can have fun with those boards for years for sure. If they are brand new, well then it surely is a bargain. Have fun with it. I don't have any specs from these boards. (rode a Nidecker Proto myself 10 years ago, was my first own board). Greets, Hans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 both the boards are brand new, but i bet they're old stocks....they were still wraped in plastic with alot of holes in it when i got them...the edges had some rust on them and u just finnished removing the rust... does anybody else know/have ridden these boards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Both are on the soft side. I agree with Hans, both boards are excellent quality and evidently "It was meant to be". Welcome to the world of hardbooting. Do a few searches on the boards names to update yourself first please. Much has been said about the brands previously. Many of the riders ride non current boards, why? , because they are there, they are still very good and they are much less expensive than a new custom. Now it is about you riding them enough to want more and know the difference between the boards. You couldn't have found a better starting place!! Knock the dust off give them a good wax and tune and Enjoy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 my friend has that exact oxygen board, and I have a longer and shorter version of the same board. It is about 20.5cm waist, it is from somewhere around 2001-2004, and comes factory tuned with a slight bevel, and is a slalom race board, but not a particularly stiff one. I think you will find both to be good for getting into carving, a lot will depend on factors like how hard you ride and also body size; 156 is a good length IMHO for learning on (the oxygen) as you need to learn to centre up your stance and body weight more than learning on a longer board. I would guess the Nidecker could be easily ridden in either soft or hard boots. Not sure what sort of boots you have in mind, but if you are Korean and a woman (I am guessing from your face pic you are) then you may need small boots, so just be careful to make sure the bindings can go small enough for your boot size. And get a nice snug boot fit as well; no slop. If you are weighing less than about 40 - 60kg, I think you'll find the 156 Oxy to be a great slalom ride, and once you master it, then you can move onto longer boards. If that avatar isn't you and you are actually a massive 100kg guy, then you may find it too short and soft :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Those are some great boards - $100 was a steal, congrats. For info on setting up your bindings and getting started at carving, be sure to check out our Welcome Center Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 If that avatar isn't you and you are actually a massive 100kg guy, then you may find it too short and soft :-) :lol: uhmm, a 100kg version of me would be my bro and it was on his blog where i posted the photos. by the way, ist here a thread here where icould find the instructions on how to post photos here? ok, so the black board is an oxygen proton slalom board. i searched the net for the oxygen website so i could find the specs of the board and i couldn't find any. does any body know the web address? now the blue one, which up til now has an unknown model name of nidecker, does anybody recognize it? it doesn't have the glossy top sheet that i can see on all the the boards i have seen. it's more like the same finnish of a guitar and it feels like wood. you guy's think this is a really old board(when that glossy stuff wasn't invented yet:D )? i have emailed nidecker for information by the way and until now, i havn't heard a thing from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boarder_Ted Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 The specs on both these boards should be as follows: Nidecker is the Nidecker Proride from around 1995. 120cm effective edge, 23cm waist width, 7.5 meter sidecut radius. The catalogue describes it as a "freeride, all-around, extreme" board. As for the Oxygen, I think it's right around a 1997 to 1999. Not real sure there. 139cm effective edge, 205cm waist, 8.5 meter sidecut, 2cm setback on the inserts. I have catalogues for both boards that I could scan and email you if you'd like. Just get in touch and let me know. Enjoy the boards! Ted PS I amost bought the Nidecker years ago. Thought it was a bit narrow for me though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_x Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Looks like the oxygen website is gone. It was at http://www.oxygensnowboards.com/ It hadn't been updated since 2002. They are now owned by Atomic. According to Carver's Almanac, the Proton is sold at blue-tomato.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I have catalogues for both boards that I could scan and email you if you'd like. Just get in touch and let me know. oh please do, thanks. sandarapark20@yahoo.no thanks a lot everybody i tried mounting my soft bindings on the nidecker board to know what it was like. . i've read on the welcome center that it is important not to have boot over hang so i set the front binding at 40. now the rear binding wouldn't get a boot overhang if i set it also at 40, but i think somethings not right if both bindings are set at the same angles so i set it at 35 with a litlle boot overhang. so i put on my boots and straped it in...it felt WEIRD. facing forward is really really WEIRD . i can't imagine how i could do a heel slide with this setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 you have overhang on the nidecker in soft boots? A little is ok, if you go to hardboots, then the issue of overhang gets more important, as you can angle the board a lot more; so you might be able to flatten your angles a bit. Are we talking inches, or millimeters? You get used to riding with angles like this; after a while you will wonder how you did it before :-) Heel side is just practise and is not hard with practise.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 thanks Boarder_Ted, the scans worked, they were blurry though i could read most of it. you were right about the nidecker board. it didn't say much about the board on the catalogue but the specs were there:biggthump . so do you think it's a board better off with a hardboot set up or softboot set up? on the other hand, the proton catalogue showed boards with 12 inserts holes on it while my board has 24. does anybody know when oxygen started making protons with 24 insert holes? the specs were there though:biggthump . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 you have overhang on the nidecker in soft boots? by the way...i forgot to ask...when you alpine riders mean boot overhang, is it when the boots touch the snow when the board is tilted 60 degrees or when the board is tilted 90 degrees? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I've never heard of testing at 60. I test at 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 even with soft boot set-ups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 You can have bootoverhang if you don't carve that 'extreme'. I mean at 90 degrees. I have bootoverhang with my softboot setup. It doesn't matter to me because my boardangle when carving is just moderate. So I just don't touch the snow with my boots. Greets, Hans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 even with soft boot set-ups?What are these "soft boots" of which you speak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonerider Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 by the way...i forgot to ask...when you alpine riders mean boot overhang, is it when the boots touch the snow when the board is tilted 60 degrees or when the board is tilted 90 degrees?You should test with 90 degees. If you are riding hardboots and alpine boards where the board tends to get more tilted over. If you are riding softboots, 60 degrees is generally ok also depending on how you ride (more tilt) or with softer snow (your edge sinks in, making overhang worse). I think .5 cm overhang on softboots is about ideal. The problem with no overhang with softboots is that softboots don't give you the power/leverage that hardboots and plate bindings have so you need the overhang to compensate.For angles... on an alpine board you should be riding 45/45 minimum. For hardboots it's ok to have the same number for both (max 3-5 degree split). You just need to relearn to ride with your hips and knees on the same line (it takes a while to stop feeling like you are twisting you knee out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 What are these "soft boots" of which you speak? well i was thinking on using a soft boot set-up from my current free ride board on the nidecker board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Sorry, that was a joke, as in I don't know what a softboot is. I haven't ridden them for over 15 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sandarapark Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 di some digging on the proton board and it turned out to be a 1999 model...pretty old,but it cost $250 on ebay:freak3: ...no complaints there:rolleyes: i have already made up my mind which boot to buy(a pair of lemans) but havn't decided which bindings to buy so another question: what bindings do you guys recomend on this old board of mine? p.s. i'm around 58kg and i think i'm some what of a agressive rider but not that much ( i broke my brothers burton clash board last season when i played all day with it...even without leaving the ground) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonerider Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 di some digging on the proton board and it turned out to be a 1999 model...pretty old,but it cost $250 on ebay:freak3: ...no complaints there:rolleyes: so another question: what bindings do you guys recomend on this old board of mine? p.s. i'm around 58kg and i think i'm some what of a agressive rider but not that much ( i broke my brothers burton clash board last season when i played all day with it...even without leaving the ground) Protons stopped being made in 2002-03 I think so they are al "old." I have a 2000-2001 model (blue one with titanium cap) and it's still a sweet ride.At your weight, you have a range of bindings that would work for you, by that I mean you are light enough that you don't need a ultra-sturdy construction of some of the higher end bindings (most non-racers continually cite this as part of the purchasings choice, the fear of their bindings breaking under their +200 lbs massiveness). For you I would recommend the Raichle X-bone or maybe the F2 bindings. They are both good bindings that are well-constructed and will support you, but be a little bit flexier under your weight to give more vibration control and flexibility. Of course the TD1/TD2 are an option. They are basically the best binding you can buy, I especially like the floating e-ring that absorbs vibrations. As mentioned their are essentially unbrekable, also very precise (no sloppage in the parts interface) and the newer TD's are pretty easy to setup. They are rather stiff, which is good if you are a big person who has gear warp and rattle under him. But for smaller people it is unnecessary and it's really a personal preference. I definitely recommend them, but don't be pressured by the FUD-style persuasion. Here is a review by Hardbooter.com. There is also Catek, but for a beginner on your own, I think they are too complicated to start out on. They are an *excellent* binding, but they have a million parts and setting them up takes for ever, and while have infinite cant/lift adjustment is nice - it also means a lot of adjustment and constant tightening of many many bolts with two different allen keys. I would only recommend this if you had a veteran rider who knows how to setup a Catek for you. Of course this is not needed, even a beginner reading the instructions can do it... but I don't think a beginner trying to learn how to learn how to carving with high angles is really going to be able to "feel" and adjust the cant/lift properly by themselves. It takes someone knowledge watching you ride and seeing how your legs bend to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 The (cheaper) F2 titaniums will do a very good job. These are light and strong bindings. If money isn't an issue TD2's are the ones also the Cateks are beautiful. Greets, Hans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 quite the score you got there have fun, a little overhang with softboots is fine so no worries there but when you get on plates you're gonna wanna minimize it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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