icebiker

^ This:D. Awesome riding guys and great vid. The slow mo also gave me a chance to study your technique (stance, weight shift, etc), in the hopes of trying a few things out this season.

I have long feet, but narrow, so for me Deeluxe work well. But here's another post in favor of UPZ or Head... http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?39245-Wide

Thanks guys, Based on your input, I feel better already knowing that my current stance may not be too far off. My rear binding is using the front-most set of rear inserts, and my front binding is using the set of binding inserts that is 1 row in front of the rear-most set of inserts. In diagram below, * are the inserts, and 0 are where the bindings are mounted. <--Tail **00 ---- *00* ----Nose--> <--Tail **00 ---- *00* ----Nose--> So, it would appear I'm already slightly front of center? (which is something a few of you recommended) and moving the rear binding back one row (Kieran's suggestion) would truly center me (as recommended by a few others). Do I have that right?

Thanks Joe, Beckmann, Kieran and Neil. I definitely want to move toward higher angles over time and a narrower board for quicker edge-to-edge. Will plan on ECES this year and see if I can demo something like a 23 cm waist. Would love to add a new board to the quiver. Funny, after purchasing a new mountain bikes, the SW SI's and assorted other toys in the past 12 months, my wife asked me the other day..."So, we're done with stuff for you for a while, right?" Right! :D Kieran, I may give your idea a shot. For what it's worth I already ride with 7 degree inward cant (the bindings in the pic are Race Plates with a Burton cant). The SW SI's I just purchased have the 6 deg rear cant. I went with 0 deg front (like my current set up) but now wondering if I should have tried a 3 deg inward cant (in line with Beckmann's advice..to get my weight less "front foot" oriented and more centered. I'll try all the advice on here in increments and see what works. Thanks again. -Greg

Dave, thanks again. I see your point. I'm inclined to leave things as they are based on re-thinking it with your and Ursle's input. Haven't tried the Fuego test, only eyeball, but will give it a shot. Seeing as I'm going to be riding different bindings this year (SW SI's) I'll re-evaluate my situation once I see if/how the new bindings help my technique. I hear you on ECES...I've been trying to get to this for a while, but timeing hasn't worked out. This year is a good possibility however. I would love to move to a narrower board one day, but it will take much higher angles than I'm used to, and trying one out at an expression session would be the low-risk way to go. Reason for my lower angles is I find I need them for leverage when negotiating the tight icy trails of the Northeast....not so much for when carving, but more for those times when it's too steep, bumped up, icy or crowded to carve (all of which happen at some point on weekends). Another reason why I asked Sean to build a 9-11 VSR instead of the standard 10-12 that the Axxess comes with. That said, by picking up some tips at a carving event from those with more experience, I'm sure higher angles/narrower board/bigger radius is doable even for bigfoots like me. Ursle, I ride with about a 20" stance, give or take. Thanks again guys for your input.

thanks Dave. Good question, especially since I have mondo 31 boots. I had Sean build my board with a 26cm waist :o. Question for you on the below statement, makes me wonder if I have the wrong definition of setback. If you increase setback, wouldn't that mean you're shifting the stance rear-ward, and in so doing making it even easier to fold the nose?

I've had two seasons on my Donek Axxess now (my first proper carving board). For the sake of consistency I set it up, stance-wise, similar to my prior boards (Burton Supermodel, Ride Yukon, both of which I'd say were more all-mountain sticks). Now I think I'm ready to experiment a bit more (after all, even Carver's Almanac states that carving is a sport of tweaking, followed by micro-tweaking, since carving performance is greatly affected by even small changes in your settings). I'm good with my angles and cant/lift for now. I'd like to focus on one tweak at a time. Set-back is my focus at the moment. I sense that I may be positioned too "centered" on the board, not only because it looks that way (see picture...distance between "center of front binding to tip" is only about 1.5" longer than "center of rear binding to tail"), but also because I am thinking that if I move my stance back a bit, I'll have more length in the nose, which should theoretically mean the front of the board will flex more, and perhaps enable me to initiate sharper turns without as much leaning nose-ward as I think I do at the moment. I've read the section on binding set up in the Almanac, and these statements seem counter to my theory. Hence checking with you all. (From Carver's Almanac) You can decrease the setback (even a little forward of center) to increase edge engagement. It will be a little easier to initiate a turn, especially on ice, but you won't be able to hold an edge as well at the end of the turn, and the board will have no performance in powder. If your front shin is getting bruised, or your front leg muscles get sore quickly, it may be because you are putting too much effort into shifting your weight forward on the board, and decreasing the setback can help out. You can increase the setback, and your edge hold at the end of the turn will increase, but you won't be able to attack the turn as much at the beginning. If the board is hooking too much at the front when entering a turn even after you detune the tip, you can try to increase the setback to compensate. Here is a pic of me standing on the board to give you a sense of how I am positioned. If its relevant, my angles are 46F, 36R. My board is 172cm. I am 6'3" Thanks in advance for any advice. -Greg

Do they look like this? If so, I think these are called the Performance bindings, not Race Plates? If so, The damping pads (red/blue/grey) should fit like this:

Got my SW SI's. I'm speechless. Fin and Michelle, thank YOU for making such rippin good stuff. Can't wait for my first run of the season. Teach, thanks, will let you about the yellows. Hope we can get a PA/NJ group ride together one day this season.

SWWEEET! Awesome form ....I need to come up CT way and get you to learn me some style :D

Thanks Fin. I ended up ordering blue rings and blue pads last night...went with my gut based on input on this thread and many other posts on the awesome original SW's. THink I may take Dave's advice and get a second (yellow) set of rings if I try teach's and like them. Can't wait to try the SI's out! Quick related question: In a thread from when SW's were first introduced, someone made mention of having to get the "long plate" version for his size 30 boots. I didn't think SW's came with different length plates, or do they? I am a 31, want to be sure what ordered fits! Thanks again. Greg

Thanks teach, I recall you're not far from me, I'll take you up on that offer when the time comes. I decided in the end to splurge and get the SW SI's and Fin-tec heels. Merry Chris-makah to me ;-) Very psyched. Dave, thanks. Good idea on the second set.

Works for me....right foot forward when coasting on MTB, goofy on a board. I've heard trials riders (Jeff Lenosky, Ryan Leech, etc) refer to that foot as one's "chocolate foot".

Thanks guys. Bryan, curious as to the yellow e-ring recommendation. Reason I ask is that my current Race Plates (flexy as they are laterally), are pretty much direct-mount to the board (other than that thin ribber gasket). So edge control is pretty good. The SW's, on the other hand, have a thick elastomer between the baseplate and board, for which I assume softer = less edge control? The Bomber store recommends for someone over 200lbs to go blue or even red. Would like to get the same edge control as my Race Plates...so am wondering now if the choice is no so much blue vs yellow, but blue vs red?

After a couple seasons on my Donek Axxess 172 using Race Plates, I am ready to go to SW's based on recommendations from some of you and on some threads I've read. I'm going with the SW's because I want bindings that give me that lateral flex, but are beefier than my 10 year old Race Plates. I realize they now come in SI, but I'm going for the standard. Before I place the order, I'd like your guidance on what density e-pads and e-rings to order. A bit about me: 6'3" 210 lbs on the bathroom scale 50 yrs old, moderately fit, but knees starting to show a little age Moderately aggressive carver, but not a racer/speed demon. Prefer speed scrubbing turns across the slope. Also ride narrow/bumped-up trails when necessary, so prefer a forgiving setup Mainly ride the Ice Coast, so plenty of iffy conditions My gut tells me to order blue pads and rings, since on one hand i'm heavy, on the other I ride hard/icy conditions. What say you? thanks in advance.

Thanks for the tip...I'm thinking of going to Sidewinders first....but the plate system intrigues me too.

funny you should ask...seems as if once I turned 50 a few months ago my knees started to protest by mid-afternoon. :D And yes, the softer/heavier snow, especially once it gets bumped up by noon certainly takes its toll on the ol' bones. They say you hit one year where your kid(s) eventually catch up to you. Well, this was the year my son (15) officially overtook me in speed, endurance (and air).

While there are a few more weeks left at a few places in VT, Saturday at Killington was the last one for me and my son. Great way to end it...blue bird sunshine, low 40's, no crowds. A few pics on Header at Ram's Head My son (My son's buddy's dad in background)

Thanks for the advice folks. Yep, I've shipped frames/bikes before so will definitely be putting in dropout blocks and padding everything well. I think the real issue will be what Zeagle said...I'll have to declare the actual value in order for it to be insured for the right amount, but the buyer in France will have to pay duty on that amount. If I lowball the value to save him coin, then the insured amount will be less.

Seeing as our BOL community is quite international and we buy and sell to each other quite a bit, I figured I'd ask you guys. I have a bike frame for sale on eBay, and rec'd a query from someone in France as to whether I'd ship it there (I'm in US). Normally I've only sold to US buyers, largely based on the sense I've gotten from BOL sellers that even shipping from US to Canada can be a hassle (forms, customs, etc). But assuming I'm willing to fill out the forms, and assuming buyers pays for any customs duty, insurance, etc, are there any reasons why shipping overseas should be a problem (e.g. dispute resolution, etc)? Any insight from those with experience in shipping used goods overseas from the US is appreciated. Thanks

Pico, VT last weekend. Took my Donek into the rental/repair shop to re-tighten my cant plate. Before I could ask for their screwdriver, the head shop wrench exclaims: "Now THAT'S a board!!"

These videos are no "rub-in"....they're "hot-poker-in-the-eyes-bamboo-shoots-up-yer-fingernails" TORTURE for us ice-coasters.... so awesome....truly great riding by skilled riders of all ages in perfect conditions....thanks for sharing:biggthump

Once again, your collective advice helped a great deal. We got a little over a foot of powder last night at our local NJ hill (Mtn Creek). After some toying around, I found the following set up worked perfectly for the bumps: 1) both boots in powder mode (not walk) 2) front boot top buckle looser 3) rear boot top buckle completely unengaged, buckle below it barely tensioned. Thanks again.

Met CarvingBassist (Mike) and a few runs later a fellow named Ralph (couldn't catch his handle). Ralph if you're out there, holler back. Mike, hope to ride with you before the season ends. Greg

Thanks guys. I have tried riding in Powder mode, but not Walk mode...Not sure if that would make a difference since its the forward lean I have the challenge with (e.g. when trying to move the board underneath me, the high cuff prevents me from getting further forward than I'd sometimes like). But could certainly try it. Typically ride with the upper clamp loose if conditions are soft/bumpy, but haven't tried riding with it completely unclipped..I suppose that could work at least for some trial and error. Those Dynafits look interesting...I was thinking of ski touring boots, but the ones I've seen in shops have a flexible toe-box (I assume for Tele) which wouldn't do well in a plate binding. I saw those 13 MGX's on eBay last night...but my experience with Burtons is they run tight and are not easy to get into if you have high arches...I'm a 14 with high arches. The 13's I tried about 10 years ago at Stratton were just too small. Mountaineering boots perhaps? Also not looking to spend a ton....not like we get a lot of powder on the ice-coast, eh?:(