Wampum

Did you sell the 2nd board kit?

Interested. Will you ship to Canada?

Just checking to see if these are still available?

Interested in the Volkl.

Cam, Do you think this would be soft enough for Kaite W?

Sent PM the other day. Sending another.

PM Sent

I'm interested if still available.

Still Available?

Got the bindings today. Look great. Thanks for the extra wedges. Happy riding!

Email sent.

Interested in 2-3 pr of the F2 bindings. I'm in T. so I can pick up. Email me- terence at fig40 dot com

Thanks Michelle.

I'm trying to get another year out of my daughter's boots, and her feet are not cooperating (they keep growing). The boots are Suzuka's 24.5. I was thinking of putting in 25 liners, but I thought I ask to see if this is a good idea or not. Has anyone tried to up size this way?

It's Titanium!

Step 1 is to read this: http://www.apexsnowboard.com/blog_gps.php

David, Are any of these smaller boots still available?

The fundamental reality is that all boards are composite in construction- Made up of laminating or gluing layers of different materials together with pressure and possibly heat, means that even if one uses a sustainable material, you will probably not be able to separate it and thus recycle it in any way. Sorry, that is the cold hard fact of boarding :( Want to be Eco - Buy a board, use it and love it for a while, then let someone else use it and love it.

I have used these Proflex for 3 kids all under 10 years old. They have a big adjustment range.

I've just done this for a few mini riders. You will struggle to find any boards under 150cm. Some older Euro brands. Burton made a Factory Prime in 135. There was one on ebay recently. Best bindings I've found for the really small feet are Proflex. They are light weight (all plastic) and adjust real small. Keep your eye on this forum for the small boards. They do come up fairly regularly.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=QM2550008A20000 These will do you. Pozi drive heads are better than Phillips though.

The only major innovation in carving in the last 6-8 years has been in the "non-tooled" areas. See Titinal boards, iso plates, bindings. Bomber has the right idea- iterate using small run CNC batches then improve. They now have the best product and have only invested in a few low cost tools. The idea behind this thread is how do you make an improved boot without spending hundreds of thousands of dollars in tooling? CNC Boot? Maybe the uppers? Buckles are easy, rear spring system is easy. There just no easy way to make those shells in all of those sizes.

Can't wait to get mine. It's the Nirvana, the new model. Bruce and I talked a fair bit about the CNC. He's got big plans for that machine in the coming year.

That is so cool.

Sunsurfer, Great idea, you're ahead of the technology. I've had a 3D printer for about 4 years. It's amazing. It has changed the way I design and prototype parts. But it's not ready for high performance real life yet. My machine runs ABS plastic, which is a run of the mill commodity plastic. The machine prints ABS at about 80% the strength of normal molded ABS. An it's much less stiff than stock ABS. The parts I make fail by de-laminating between plastic build layers. I have built several complete chairs that were easily strong enough to sit on, but eventually they always broke. Good boots are Polyether thermoplastic, which is a kick ass super tough (even at low temperature) plastic. ABS at below freezing is pretty brittle. 3D printing is not there yet but it won't be long. Here are some of my 3D printed prototype parts for my Head Stratos Pro boots. I'm getting the final parts machined in Al.