Gtanner

Oh....well whoops (yeah I'm a roadie). For the front shock not locking out...any thoughts on what that could be? I was considering a DIY scenario, bleed the oil and re-charge and check/replace the seals.

You know you want in!

I've got a spare set of broken UPZ boots that I use for parts. I've got a cant screw assembly (red) and it's yours. The only catch is I don't have a torx wrench to take it out. give me a call 604 six-five-three seven-five-two-seven I'll be around most of the day tomorrow (we have a play-date in the morning) - Located in North Van, just across from the Iron-workers bridge, 3 min drive up Mt. Seymour Parkway. -Gord

Heading to Whistler for Family Day Monday... 50% off lift tickets if you are a BC local (or have an Edge card). I'm guessing it will be a mad-house...so I'm debating whether or not hardbooting would be a good idea. I tend to have more fun on two-planks when there are crowds. Weather is looking sunny and clear for the weekend.

From what I gather no...although that would be fun. Apparently it's a 400+ gate GS course. From Saddle, down Dave's to Creekside. Winners take around 5:30 to do it, people are sent on one-minute intervals (so mid-course passing does happen:eplus2:). Team of four, two go on the first day, two on the second day. Winning team is total combined time. Major party at Dusty's afterward and it was all over the Whister website, so I assume it's hill-run. I was thinking it would be awesome to put together a team of 4 hardbooters...all on 180+ boards (no skin-suits John), and see how we do against all the local ex-ski racers.

Ok that's good to know. My concern is that the front shock "lock-out" doesn't always engage, and the rear shock has a "+/-" lever for more/less sag that I don't think is working too well. My thought was that I'd have to get the rear re-charged with N2...the front on the other hand, may just be a bleed/seal. Maybe I'm being picky. Thanks for pointing me to Yamaha...hadn't thought of that.

John, I'm playing my little violin for you...just start doing squats, you own a gym right? In all seriousness though, it would be great to get this set up. The cost was somewhere around 550 per team of 4 this past year (I assume lift tix are included). I wonder it we knew someone who owned a 24-hr Fitness who would perhaps sponsor the team...

Rock Shox Psylo on the front (which apparently was stock the last year they had the model). 4" travel....if it's going to cost me an arm and a leg, I may consider a new fork with a bit more travel. I may research the rebuild kit. From what I can tell (i.e. via youtube) seal replacement and re-fill with oil isn't that big of a deal. Now on the rear, I know that's a different story.

Thanks for the recommendations. Yes I was referring to the two shocks specifically. I'm not too concerned with the pivots at this point. DB had the highest quote by a fair margin, hence why I was questioning a DIY option. I have no interest in spending more on shock servicing and a tube-up than I did on the whole bike.

I think I'm at 6 or 7 now. As for this weekend, Friday is a possibility, but it depends on a few appoitnments I may have during the day.

Offers? I'll split shipping.

So I managed to land an amazing deal on a dual-suspension bike in amazing shape (Norco EXC 1.0 FS for $500...some people just don't know what they have). Its about 5 years old and I think that both suspensions need servicing just as a precaution. Although the whole drivetrain and brakes need a full tune, the wear and tear is minimal. Should I pursue getting a shop to do the suspension or can this be done as a DIY project. I am a bit of a wrench in that I can take apart and repair the full drive-train (mostly on road/TT bikes), but Mtn bike suspension is a new realm for me. What should I budget? Located in North Vancouver if that helps. Thanks. -Gord

Chris keeps mentioning that a new shape is in the works...

Feb 2/3 weekend: Feb 2 - gorgeous blue-bird day. No new snow for awhile. Rode Blackcomb all day. Morning tool; Coiler 173cm VSR (love it), afternoon on softies F2 WC Eliminator. I met up with a guy on a late 90's Killer Loop in 7th Heaven. We took a few runs and I gave him a card pointing him in the direction of this site. Snow was pretty good, but getting to mashed potatoes once the sun got on it for a few hours. Feb 3 - mostly cloudy, medium flat light, still no new snow. Skied for the day on Whistler. Snow was pretty dry on the Harmony/Symphony side, and decent coverage. We may be up again this weekend and riding on Family Day, not sure though. Conditions will dictate skis/hard/soft. -Gord

Pan, you know I'm in for Cypress training. As for a Super-G or downhill race, sounds like fun. I'm stuck with work until mid-March, but after that I could see about a random weekend race. Speaking of which, we should consider getting a group of 4 together do to the Peak to Creek GS race at Whistler (it was just this past weekend). 400+ gates, 5-7 minutes worth of racing, thigh-burning fun! -Gord

One thought is to remove the liner with your foot still in it. Get some panty-hose from the store and put them around the liner. The liner will slide in/out of the shell much easier. The added upside is that now your liners are out of the shells to allow for earier drying. Having worked/lived/ridden in Fort McMurray for the past 7 years, I do understand a cold ride with UPZ's. -Gord

Bumparoo

I went to a ski shop and some random bolt fit. I think it's an M5 that is ~1-1.5cm long with a philips head. Torx heads suck anyway. :)

Bump - make an offer.

19cm waist 5'6" and 155lbs, this would be a decent board for your size to start with. It is a race/freecarving board with a very low nose-height, so it doesn't really manage much other than groomers especially for a beginner. -Gord

Bump - OBO

In reference to shin-bang. Keeping pressure on the liner improves your chances of keeping contact between the shin and the front of the liner. On UPZ's, the booster still weeves through the rear of the spoiler plastic, then over the front of the liner. If you place it over the front of the plastic on the boot, you don't really get the full benefit of the strap's intent. The US rider you were referring to likely just wanted more leverage, so placing the booster around the plastic of the boot in the front of the boot essentially adds a 3rd buckle above the ankle with a bit of give. And the team riders don't care for comfort, they go for performance. Boots insane-tight and and fully un-buckled while on the lift or not actively riding/skiing.

Just a reminder, they should go around the liner and not the boot shell. :) WC model for me, and I usually loosen them up a bit on the lift. -Gord

$125 + shipping from Vancouver Canada. Amazing shape, I only rode it 2-3 times, it's been sitting in my garage for a few years and deserves a home where it will be ridden. volkl top by tanner.gord, on Flickr volkl base by tanner.gord, on Flickr

Bordy, Are you still working with Chris on any SillyGood boards? I'm in Vancouver and would love to take one for a spin sometime. I loved riding a demo PGS from Chris a few years back (the review is up here somewhere). Last time I spoke with Chris, he was hinting at a new Prior shape in the hardbooting line...have you been involved in the shape or do you happen to have any inside info that you can share? -Gord