Jack M

What's the matter Biff...

Good thing nobody is talking about skiing! Why don't you mount up a pair of your tele bindings on one of your boards, have a go and get back to us.

Yeah, fine, it's another way to do this absurd activity called sliding down a hill. But it's all wrong. You can't pressure the nose with free heels. Good alpine snowboarders can do powder and bumps too, no need for a teleboard. I was involved with founding BOL, I don't recall a Lothar.

The boots look awesome. Really looks like the've "done it". But I knew they would cost a grand. Not exactly an easy decision for us weekend warriors, especially if you have to convert back to standard bindings (I would). I suppose there will be a strong market for boots that were tried and didn't work out, so that's a bit comforting. I had 130 flex ski boots once. I couldn't snowboard in them. @GeoffV, you in?

#overthinkingit

YOU CAN DRINK YOUR TEARS!!

Great. It's not rocket science. I have molded one pair of liners as many as 6 times, so it's not like you're screwed if you mess up. Just... make a toe cap, duct tape your Intec cable in place, and above all, keep weight on that foot while cooling or else the liner will end up too narrow.

;-) Camelback under your coat, snack bars in your pockets. Now drop and give me 20.

Buy with confidence. Termin8r takes excellent care of his gear, and has too many boards! And these F2s are the real deal. You won't be disappointed.

First of all, he's riding with a backpack, inside a resort. Don't be that guy. In addition to all the other apt observations, he looks like an intermediate hardbooter trying to ride softboots like hardboots. Don't be that guy either. Current softboot carving technique has little to do with rotating the hips towards the nose.

The downside of this method is that it does not mold the liners to the boots. Oven method does. I think this is important, especially with Intec.

http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/self_molding_liners.pdf

Is that heelside or toeside? ;-P With all due respect to Jones, I have to assume he's not including his time in hardboots when he makes that statement, because his audience is softbooters. How are you in a Mondopoint 28 boot with US size 13 gunboats? I don't think you can isolate your issues to board width, it could be that lower binding angles just don't agree with you.

Actually the Factory Prime was in the main Burton catalog until 2001, with the same billing as any other board. That year the FPs just had an off-black gloss topsheet with a logo and the specs text. In 2002 (autumn of 2001) they exiled all the alpine stuff to a separate Burton catalog, and no softbooter would ever see another piece of alpine marketing again unless they went out of their way to pick up that catalog. The FP was renamed "Speed". The 2002 boards were black with a faux mother-of-pearl tail. They were actually quite good looking, someone went to a lot of effort on those graphics. The 2003 Speeds were gray with red "blood splatter". In 2004 the whole alpine line was spun off into the pseudo-brand R17 Addicted, which had the appearance of having nothing to do with Burton. I believe shape and construction innovation ceased with the 2002 line. I don't think R17s were built for more than 1 or 2 years. I heard from a prominent Northeastern US Burton rep near the end, that the majority of world cup riders were on Burton boards at the time, and that they were sick of bankrolling that party without getting any competition or marketing exposure out of it. Too bad, as they were about to get an education from Kessler. Imagine how Burton could have reverse engineered that tech and trickled it down to BX and freeride boards. What a shame for them. Oops, sorry for the tangent.

That has everything to do with the sidecut radius (unpublished but it's gotta be under 9m if you ask me) dictating that you make a thousand turns in one run, and nothing to do with board width. That said, the widest modern carving board I owned was 21cm and I didn't find it any more tiresome. I should probably go back to that width now that I think about it. Also Coiler Monster owners sure do loooove those boards. My old Burton Safari was 26.7cm at the waist. Loved it at the time. I think board width only becomes a problem when the board is simply too wide for your feet even at 0/0, which can be an issue for people with smaller feet. As for the video posted by erazz, yeah, no thanks. Looks like asking for an Achilles rupture. Those guys need BX boards. But the maneuver at 1:01 is ballsy.

Intuition Power Wrap. Recommended.

I like the thumbs up mid carve, lol. 1:36 hurt my ACLs!

Thanks Corey for measuring that. I switched to UPZ this year in search of better heel hold-down and definitely got it. But my front leg is definitely getting tired more. I suspected I should switch from the 3 to the 6 degree disc in front, and this confirms it. I wonder how the Deeluxes would measure, but I'm sure it's less. As for the boots overall, the fit is much better for me, I get zero heel lift and my foot does not move in the boot. Adding the stiffer gray tongue and Intuition liners was necessary for me to get my desired stiffness and fit. The stock liners squirmed around inside the shell, and no, the boots are not oversized. In fact I would say they are nearly a race fit as I need to unbuckle them every lift ride. The performance is worth it though. I can see why a lot of racers use them.

It is possible. There are All-Mountain alpine boards available like the Donek Axxess, Prior 4x4, Coiler All-Mountain, etc. These boards are built to carve well on the corduroy, but compared to a typical alpine-only board they're wider, softer, have a bigger nose for better powder float and a rounded tail with a small upturn. Tweaking airs or sliding rails will be difficult to the point of why bother. But getting air and busting an old school method or tail grab or Indy in hardboots is fun once you get used to it, and it confuses the park regulars. Half pipe is possible too. However using hardboots like this is kind of like putting snow tires on a sports car for winter driving. You're still limited and the technique is different than if you had optimal equipment for the task at hand. In the mean time you can get started without buying anything by really carving your softboot setup on an easy trail. The test to see if you're ready for hardboots is if you can carve your downhill edge. That is, can you make C-shaped carves and change edges while the board is still pointing across the hill. Here is some reading on that: http://www.bomberonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/The-Norm-Part-I.pdf After you do that, to get more of an idea of what alpine snowboarding is like, angle both your bindings forward, like 36/24, and try again. There's an All-Mountain Hardbooting forum here too: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/forum/77-all-mountain-hardbooting/

For the front foot. On the back foot, having the cant disc aligned with the long axis of the board also results in some inward canting which turns your rear knee towards the heel edge.

Yeah that could have a lot to do with it if that's not the right setup for you (and it sounds like it's probably not). Generally pure toe lift on the front foot and pure heel lift on the back foot is a good place to start, and then experiment from there. In other words, rotate the cant discs so they line up with your binding angles. Here is the long version if you want some reading: http://www.bomberonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/canting-and-lift.pdf

@GeoffV is.

I'm wondering if perhaps you set up the Bombers with heel lift on both feet by accident? Generally toe lift on the front foot and heel lift on the back foot is a good place to start.

That's awesome. But why does it look like your legs are crossed??

I hate stupid people.