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Hiroshi

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Everything posted by Hiroshi

  1. LOL, my bad - thanks for pointing it out (& I fixed my typo's above). Yes, the "spoiler" pieces from my old SB-224's to new(-to-me) Track 325's were exact fit.
  2. Thanks for the info on the "spoiler". So, that's what's it for! Anyway, I just transferred over the "spoilers" from the 224s, and - with my same TF 'as-is' - the new(-to-me) 325s feel very familiar/comfortable already (nothing strange) - at least so in the garage so far. (Will see on snow.) Since the shell mold/shape is pretty much the same between 224 & 325 anyway, I guess no surprise there. Thanks again, Hiroshi
  3. Hi folks, What's this piece (silver piece in pic) on top of upper boot cuff? What's it called, and what's it's purpose/function? I ask because I'm upgrading from SB-224 to Track 325, and thinking of simply transferring over this silver piece from the 224 to the 325 just so that (I hope) I don't have to re-bake my TF liners to modify for the imprint of that silver piece. Thanks for your info in advance, Hiroshi
  4. Hi GeoffV, Thanks for the awesome "tool dip" ("Plasti Dip"?) idea, which looks a LOT better than my duct tape & ShoeGoo combo (LOL!). Just to reconfirm, spray on (not brush on) for this application, right? Cheers, - Hiroshi
  5. Hi Dave, Just belatedly realized it's an eBay item, so I just did a "Buy It Now" now. Says free shipping, so that saves me a drive, too - thanks! Looking forward to the boots, - Hiroshi PS. Just in time since my boots just cracked yesterday.
  6. Hi there, I'm in San Jose area( local pickup), and would like to buy this pair ASAP. Please let me know how to proceed. Thanks!
  7. My Raichle SB-224 (26.5) left shell just cracked yesterday. The crack runs from the side of the shell all the way around the heel. It was last run of the day, during a normal/casual heelside, "crack!" - still able to safely make it down the hill. Glad it was the last run yesterday than the 1st run on the next trip. Plastic fatigue (more storage age, even though not many days), I'm sure. I've also had a crack/split right above the 3rd buckle (covered by tongue) on both left/right boots since last season, too, but I was sorta "patching" them (LOL). Well, this crack, I know I can't fix - time for a replacement pair. PS. If anybody needs any pieces from my SB-224 (eg. buckles, tongues, bolts, soles, etc), I'm happy to give away (free items / you just cover shipping).
  8. Hi there. I'm interested in your Raichle SB423 (26.5). Do you still have them?
  9. Thanks for this tip. Just picked up some M5 x 20mm (.8 pitch) button-head "stainless" hex bolts (together with M5 washers for a good measure) at a local hardware store. Much better torque than the Phillips-head M5 bolts that originally came with the Intec kit. Super secure feel and no play now. Thanks. :)
  10. (It's been quite a while since I last posted on Bomber, and I can't view TahoeCarvers page on Facebook because I'm still avoiding Facebook account, LOL.) Finally went up to Tahoe (upon a social invitation, not necessarily my idea with drought) for the first time this season over the weekend (1/25~1/26). I briefly carved at Alpine on Saturday, and I was also pleasantly surprised by the (man-made) snow texture being decent for what it is. Since the open trails are kinda narrow & everybody has to ski there, I found it to be a bit too crowded for my taste, though. In any case, I managed to sneak in a few first turns of this season on Saturday, so I was content. On Sunday, I just let my wife ski with my 7yr-old, and I sat back at the lodge with my 4y-old, who also very briefly tried skiing for the 1st time. Since Alpine's man-made snow texture was decent, now I'm also curious about the current snow texture at Kirkwood. In the recent past years, I've only been at Badger Pass (in Yosemite, which is still not open this season) & Tahoe Donner, with our small children in mind. (Big resorts still scare me, for my kids sake.) Anyway, hopefully the storm this week (not sure how much) will help, and hopefully more to come sooner rather than later.
  11. I also have a GoPro (not HD), which I use often for mountain biking. But this weekend will be my 1st time using it on snow. Since I don't have the automobile piece (suction) or the surf piece (big white stick-on), I'll plan to use my Chesty this time and see how it turns out. Anyone already have any carving videos with Chesty that I can see as visual samples? Since my GoPro is of a mt-bike package, I also have some small black helmet stick-on pieces, which I've read come off easily (maybe it'll last just a few runs, which would be enough of footages). Or maybe I should just save those for its intended helmet use only. If so, on top (too high?) vs on the side? Cheers, Hiroshi
  12. Thanks for the tips, Sierra & NateW. I know "describing" it is rather difficult, and I appreciated your time/effort. (I figured I could count on somebody here for that.) I'll try it out on my more-forgiving Burton Coil, but so far I've been lazy I keep pulling out my Proton in the morning for carving, without going back to the car to switch to Coil to practice these. But, will do so hopefully soon...! Cheers, - Hiroshi
  13. D-Sub, thanks for pointing me to the URL. Billy, saw the fakie section in your "Size Doesn't Matter" vid. Impressive speed at which you can fakie. Also, recognized the "jump & land fakie" move you wrote about. Not sure if I noticed the load-nose-and-pop (to turn/spin) move (like Pure Boarding folks), though I might've missed it(?). Gabe, agree about the 'risk ratio' thing. (And I'm scared/chicken!) When fakie, I feel that my body gets 'left behind' (board's-rear / body's-front, when fakie) as speed increases, which is just like when learning to snowboard the very 1st time. Any tips to keep the body weight centered (if not a bit board's-forward / body's-rear, when fakie), with the average boot lean setup (say, "3"/middle in Raichle), etc, that carvers have? I mean, my lower back doesn't bend the other way (& I'm no double-jointed yoga master). I suppose I can try to stick the butt out to compensate/balance? No idea... Now, can anyone also share some how-to tips on all the load-nose-and-pop/spin tricks? I never freestyle-snowboarded before getting into carving, so - though this might be kinda basic (I see freestyle kids do it often) - I have no idea how to even start practicing these at first. I emailed Pure Boarding folks, and got some answers on setup (ie. rear boot in "walk"), but no specific/descriptive how-to (other than the "just practice, practice..." phrase). I will "practice", but I'd like to know how to possibly go about it or what to speifically do / aim at, while doing so. (Yes, I'll try it on my Burton Coil 165, not on my Proton 172.) Thanks again,
  14. Hi everyone, Is there also a video (or more pic's) of him doing fakie (or any other hard-booting tricks) posted somewhere online? I wanna see both sides' turns & the transition in-between, too. Also, I'd like to know how exactly he spins to fakie (then back). Is he nose-bending & pop to spin, or just slide & spin quickly? As something similar, I've seen Pure Boarding's videos, but I can't do any of them for the life of me. Maybe a tiny-mini olly, but that's about it. Please help with with technical "how-to" on this (& any other hard-booting "tricks" like 180's, 360's, or whatever else), and how to go about practicing/trying them first, etc, etc. Thanks for your info/feedback in advance.
  15. Hi Scott, Thanks for your message. It was fun to meet & carve with you in-person at Kirkwood last Thursday. I hope to carve with you again this season. Please come and say hello at http://www.TahoeCarvers.com. There you'll find more of us Bay Area locals to plan some carving trips together with up in Tahoe, etc. - Hiroshi PS. Your heelside turn is looking nice! PPS. Many of the TahoeCarvers guys can locally hook you up with some longer boards that you're interested in (demo and/or buy).
  16. Long story short, someone got sick at the last minuite, so we're canceling this trip. While I was trying to cancel all my travel arrangements, here's an interesting thing I found out that I thought I'd share... Through the Whistler/Blackcomb "Central Reservation" (888-403-4727), I had booked a round-trip Perimeter bus service from the airport to the Village & back. (My money first goes to Central Reservation, then they pay Perimeter.) When I initially tried to cancel it, Central Reservation didn't want to give me a refund, per their 15-day cancellation policy. So, next I called Perimeter directly, just in case. Interestingly, I found out that Perimeter will refund fully until the day before. So, in my case, while I don't get refunded by Central Reservation, Central Reservation still would have gotten refunded by Perimeter. (aka "double-dipping") Anyway, I had Central Reservation talk to Perimeter, and am getting refunded by Central Reservation. Lessons learned here... #1 - Try to book all pieces of travel components directly & individually, not thru a centralized agent for everything, if/whenever/wherever possible #2 - It pays to make extra calls & check around when canceling (thanks to a help/push from my wife, who's much more travel-savvy & a better consumer at this than I am, while I would've just given up easily) http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com http://www.perimeterbus.com/
  17. Hi, Mine's no longer for sale (per above post), but you can find the Proton spec in the URL posted on my original post of this ad. Just follow/click on the link, then you'll get to a page. It's hard to see, but there's a "scroller" of the screen to be dragged/scrolled down to show you all 4 different-size Proton spec's there. Here's the link again, just in case... http://www.oxygensnowboards.com/main.php?loc=prod&brd=C013210#
  18. Instead of "Freestyle Carving", belately I just had an opportunity to try "Hardboot Freestyling". For the past 10 seasons I've been snowboarding, I briefly had 1~2 seasons of a freestyle/softboot setup, which was then quickly sold & switched to an alpine/hardboot setup, and I've only had carving gear since then. However, just the other week, I bought an used Burton Coil 165cm/9.3M, and put my plates on it (at 51/f & 48/r, compared to 58/58 on my Proton 172cm/14M). And I drove out on a snowy day (which I haven't done in years!) this weekend to check it out. To my pleasant surprise, I had a lot of fun in fluffy-pow soft condition, off-piste, lips & (mini) jumps, in the trees/gulley, and skiier-tracked bumps (although I'm quite terrible at it all). Gracefullness or stylishness isn't there for me at all, with my arms/hands flappin' around in a hard attempt to balance to stay up, but it was fun - I must admit. I was also surprised at how difficult it is to try to slide around the tail down the hill, which is something new for me. (I'm only used to ride on the edges = lack of versatility on my part.) With my bad ankles, I can't wear softboots, but walk-mode SB224s seem to do a good job for me on this setup. I also tried to do some other fun stuff (as seen in PureBoarding videos, etc), but I also found out how difficult it is (for me) to do all that tricky fun stuff. Hopefully I can also start hanging out with some of my skiier/freestyler friends on those non-carving condition days. Anyway, all this 'freedom' is rather new & refreshing to me, and I had fun. So, I'd like to start adding some more versatility to my snowboarding experience.
  19. Hi Scott, Wow, thanks for diggin' up my old ad from last year. Actually, a deal (to replace this Proton with) that I was aiming for back then fell thru after all, so I'm still riding with this board as my main stick. And I need to keep it for myself, as it's my only carving stick now. Thanks & good luck with your search, - Hiroshi
  20. I'll be there from 3/02 (arrv) thru 3/06 (dept). I'll keep watching the condition... (not that I have other choices, with tickets/reservation already purchased/booked :o ) --- condition --- http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/live/index.htm --- web cam --- http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/cams/webcam01.htm --- weather --- http://www.whistler.com/playhere/info/weather-forecast.html
  21. Joel, Wow, thank you very very much. (Email was sent to you...) - Hiroshi
  22. Shred got me into those metalic Bakoda C-Trac thinggies a few yrs ago, and I think those are the greatest for hardboots (for me). Never freezes, always there to scrape the snow off the boots, and great traction (lay 4 of them in square figure) off the lift. Each is about the size of old dollar coin (or slightly bigger) in diameter. Bummer that none of the local places here carry these, so I always have to Google-search some funky shops online each time. (I once suggested if Bomber would carry them.) Also, they come in a pack of 3, and I always use 4 per board. Bummer that they don't come in a pack of 4. They work great, and look great. :)
  23. Hi Joel, Thanks for your post. Yes, I know... But, believe it or not, I really do... :o Stacking the thin ones couldn't quite do it for me. On my other bindings (Proflex/F2 INTEC), I also have a big front-toe lift and a big rear-heel lift equally/evenly. I guess that's the only way I know to ride comfortably(?), ha, ha, ha... Yes, please, if you could check at home (& if you actually have it), that'll be super. - Hiroshi
  24. If you have X-Bone bindings (any models; carbon or non-carbon or INTEC or non-INTEC), and happen to have no need/use for the plastic toe/heel-lift shimming "block" piece (the big/chunky one, not the thin ones), I'm interested in obtaining it from you, please. I currently have one, but would like another for the other foot. Your help is appreciated. Thanks, - Hiroshi PS. I have extra's that are for F2/Proflex bindings. It's the same size (height & hole-distance wise), but I don't know if I can safely use them on X-Bone because... F2/Proflex one has a center groove, which of course I can shave off for X-Bone use. But, also, X-Bone block is wider than F2/Proflex block, so F2/Proflex block lacks the X-Bone block width to reach & sit in the side grooves of X-Bone plates. Meaning, the only thing holding the block will be the bolts, without any added security from the lock-in grooves. I don't know...
  25. Does anybody happen to surely know what year this particular Burton Coil graphics was of? I just bought one used, and I'd like to know what year, simply for record-keeping. Mine (165.5cm/9.3M) looks like this one, except mine looks slightly more yellow than green. (Maybe mine is the same and sun-faded a bit, or is it another year's?) I know it's not of '00/'01, for example, because I know that '00/'01 looks more like this one instead. (Or, so I heard.) Thanks for the info in advance.
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