najserrot

9Jack, I've been watching marc cirigliano's videos on youtube that emphasizes the hip drop before. But your article goes goes through a lot of details which is enlightening. My bindings heel blocks and toeblocks are very much moved forward to align the notch on the middle of the boot to the middle of the bindings. I tried the front foot heel bias and the rear fott toe bias yesterday. Dont really know how to do this but i just adjusted to have heel overhang and toe over.the snow was too soft to get a propper assesment. But it felt the carving felt much better on both sides. But if i flat base the flats, the tail wanted to out run the nose. Any tips?

" sliding the board under" ... this deacription is golden. Enjoying a short steep redish part at the end if the blue slope im usually on. Used just bomb straight to it. Another thing that was troubling me was the toe side turns. Back sides were natural and could nail it everytime since the beggining. Toe sides were hit or miss. It got better last week with the advice of using the toes on the back foot... BUT today (deeluxe track 700) I found a line/marking under the boot. Eyeballing, it seems to me the senter of the boot. I have F2 race bindings and when the boot is locked in, the mark on the boot is 1 cm behind the F2 logo (removable plastic disk) which I assume is the center of the bindings. I then adjusted the bindings to have the boot marking right iver the logo. Was i right to adjust the bindings??? The ride felt a bit strange the first few runs. Toe side turns improved but heel sides was less easier than I rembered it to be but still very doable.

I just molded my liners not too long ago. I had the same problem with you on my right foot. And I didnt even mold them with toe caps. I got severe cramps on the feet in the beggining. Two 1km runs and i needed to take a break. No pain during riding but mostly when taking the lift. But 2 weeks of daily riding and they stated packing out where i got fhe cruahing sensation on the forefoot. I still get cramps. But only in the first 2 or so runs and then disappear the rest of the day. I really like the liners. My feet dont move in the boot. Only can wiggle the toes.

I get that Jack. Only lanaged to look where im going on the last three runs i had this morning even though i was trying oh so hard the whole week. Dumb question of the year.....When one has one's weight mostly on the front of the board on the steeps. Is this achieved by bending forward from the waist?

Carve report: mind blown. THANKS!!!! Been boarding a few days now to try out the ideas presented to bleed off speed while carving. Tried it first on the SL board but found out quick that it wasnt such a smart idea since things happened so fast auch that a turn is already over while in my head is still thinking "load the nose". Moved on to the GS board. Tried "loading the nose" at the beggining of the turn and for the first time ever, I felt the board bend beneath my feat because i wanted it too and not bec of the gforces in a carve. Was able to do tighter turns. But i really could not make 11-17 m scr carve uhill at the end. The most i could do ischange edge parallel to the fall line otherwise it takes somuch space. The pure carving and EC video were godsend. I didnt do layed out carves but in the video, the "driving the knee" concept was so exagerated that i had a good picture in my head of how it is supposed to be. So far i was able to controll speed much better than before on a steep-ish blue slope. To top it off... i had always been more or less looking downhill while carving or looking to the middle of the turn ( whic feels very wierd). Someone mention in the thread to look where the board is going or where i want to go and thos made things much more better and felt more natural! Also somementioned to carve with front heel on heelsides and back toe on toe sides. And i felt the board tracked somuch better. Question: can some one please breakdown weight destribution on the feet during a carve? Some how i get confused with this

I think i now have pretty good picture what "driving the knee in the snow" means now. Going up the hill some time next week to try theese out. next question "Loading the nose" --- is this the same as decambering the Board during the Down weighting to engage the New edge?

totaly off topic video. but is this the movement that everyone is talking about when they mention "drive the knee in the snow"?

to do list next time im on the hill 1. adding more umpfff in the down weight to engage new edge while perpendicular to the fall line 2. put more pressure to bend the nose to make tighter turn radius. 3. go a bit up hill to bleed off speed (but not too much) 4- repeat from step 1 all the while looking at where i want the carve to end up and keeping good body position with the hand on knee thing. ok so far? is a freecarve board so different? Its not easy for me to get one

Great vid! Watched it a few times now. Im ridding an old coiler GS around 13m and a newer donek SL 9-11 m. On the GS i get so much pressure at end of the turn ( mentioned in the video) while maintaining speed. On the SL, i get so much speed at the end and not much pressure. In both cases it always end up in wdge chatter. On the first video, "drive the knee" what does that mean? What does "driving" mean? Does it mean i should make my front leg do circular-ish movements like on a steering wheel to turn the board?

great that you mentioned weight distribution since i still get confused about this. Could you break down how you do it? I ride Goofy. And i do it like this and correct me if I have been doing this wrong. Heelside turns: initatiate turn with weight on front heel.70/30 (front / back). Then slowly move my weight to the back heel so that it is 50/50 by the middle of the turn and 30/70 at the end. toe side: initatiate turn with weight on front toe.70/30 (front / back). Then slowly move my weight to the back toe so that it is 50/50 by the middle of the turn and 30/70 at the end.

Hi, would like to get some some tips on how to progress since i feel some what stuck. Been carving for 2 seasons now and feel confident on blue runs (somewhat). I can do solid carves on the first 3-4 turns. like really round and deep carves. But then things get hairy after about the 4th turn. I gain so much speed. To explain it quite vaguely, by the 4th turn I feel like im FLYING 1 cm over the snow. I can barely feel the snow under my feet and it seems i loose the leverage to dig in the edge in the snow. By this time, I can't make round carve turns anymore and instead feel like i just go straight down the hill all the while switching edges quickly. If i dont switch edges fast enough, the board would skid at this point. All these in a blue run! Also i feel like I am just "riding the sidecut" of the board. Any tips how i can work around this problem would be awesome. thanks!

Local ski hill opened last week. Took the REV 157 for the first ride of the season. I have been riding the same single side cut coiler titanal GS for about 10 years now. that BOard was my og to Board minus the powder days. The REV With its modern sidecut had been a blast. The REV has the typical quiet ride quality of a titanal board. On the opening day, the slopes were just ice sheets with a cm of dry sandy snow on top. The edges gripped on the ice is just like my 10 yr old coiler. The difference between both boards was more apparent on day 2. Got to the slopes abit late. Typical early conditions and the slope was already torned up since i got there late in the day. The REV 157 ride was much more smoother on choppy snow. It didnt Bounce around. It just plowed through chopped snow like it was not even there. On the 3rd day, we got some Nice gripy hero snow. And both board were very similar. The main difference i would sa, in comparisson to my old board are 2 folds. The REV rode a lot smoother in chopped up conditions (must be the lower nose). 2nd would be the modern sidecut. The sidecut i had was 7-11 m. And depending on how my weight is Distributed on the board, the board could make narrow turns and wider turns. I dont need to Power bend the board to maniulte the turn shape. Im not racing, just riding around. For pure freecarving, i would suggest another board that will make c shape turns. because this one does not. But for my way of riding, i Like it =)

Pm sent

Sold?

Dont personally ride with hands behind. But ridding with hands behind the small of my back has tought me that they are not that important in recreational carving. But they help in practising angulation in the beginning.

Looking for SL/GS version

Gonna have a Board built. Can someone refer me to a graphic designer to help me with the top sheet?

My non carving buddies have pointed out many times that "it" looks very unusual from behind. Espescially when traversing the hill before the edge change... which is where i have taken some hits 100% of the time...