mnfusion

I don't know your price range but most 'average' bikers can be served by a Trek, Specialized, Giant, etc... They are bigger companies that can give you more bang for your buck. Check out Marin, because they don't have a big advertising budget they can offer excellent bikes at good prices. But if you can give me more specifics like: 1 - what is your price range 2 - what kind of riding are you going to seriously be doing most of the time 3 - what do you want a bike to do 4 - etc.... I can go into more detail once you give me more information.

Damn, the wrong team won IMO. They played a great game though, Edmonton just couldn't match them tonight and can you blame them? They fought back from a 3-1 game deficit just to force a game 7. Winning one more was gonna be a tough one against Cam Ward. Saddly I think we will be seeing more of Carolina in the coming years. With a goaltender like Ward, they will be tough to beat. It is just sad that a State with no ice or winter has the Cup. Something is just wrong with that.

Compared to hydro's...yes. Compared to standard rim brakes...yes. But then again, that is why I said...IMO (IN MY OPINION). I hate mechanical brakes. i hate myself for even putting them on a bike. Hydros cost a tiny bit more but IMO they are worth the extra money...IMO

Mechanicals are a pain in the ass to set up IMO. Contact the manufacurer for instructions and have some patience.

Also if they are mechanical, the cables and housing need to reach all the way to the hubs since that is where the caliper is mounted. By v-brake cable and housing I take that to mean that they only reach to the rim break mounts. If this is the case I would argue solely from the fact that you will need to buy longer cables and housing. If you have hydrolic breaks and were given cables and housing you have a system that is not compatable at all. I would complain alot if that is the case. Again, posting some pics would help answer your question though.

email sent.

Couple questions here: 1. - I am building a FR/Light-duty DH bike for use in the Minnesota/Upper Midwest area. I have a Mountian Cycles San Andreas frame and need a shock for it. I was looking at a Marzocchi Jr T but am wondering what are the advantages/disadvantages to a duel crown fork? WHat Fork would you all recommend and why? etc... 2. - I also need a wheelset. I was thinking of the azonic Outlaws, but am open again to rider suggestions. 3. - Finally brakes. I have only ridden Hayes and was thinking of the Mag HDs. Is this a good choice or are there any other suggestions for 8" hydrolics that won't break the bank? Also I am very open to used equipment so if anyone is cleaning out their basement and has some equipment they need to dump let me know. Thanks everyone.

i had every issue of that mag. i loved it. read them over and over again. then a few years back i was cleaning out my life, you know..downsizing...trying not to collect too much material stuff, and i threw them all out. i have regretted that ever since.

i'm very interested. could you email me the pics so i can see them better and tell me more about the board...usage, why selling, impressions, etc.... thanks. burning_bunny_inc@yahoo.com

please send pics to burning_bunny_inc@yahoo.com. thanks

wondering what is the real difference between the two? Can you wax both? or is lightspeed a fancy sintered? I have ridden only sintered bases and am considering getting an Alp with a lightspeed base and am basicly wondering if I'd be happy with it. Thanks.

I actually was that friday from about 11a-4p, but I ride a burton Fusion with soft bindings so you may not recognized me as a 'true' carver, but I was there.

Two questions here: 1: I am thinking of buying an Alp off the site. It is listed as having a sintered base but the'98 catalog states that it is a lightspeed base. anyone who has bought one of these please clarify this for me. Also, if it is a lightspeed base, how does it ride? can you wax it? I've only ridden sintered bases so I don't know. 2: I am 5'6" and @155 lbs. I like a stiff board. What do people think of the alp 64 for someone my size? Thanks

still for sale?

Ok, first off before anyone says 'ride a hard boot set-up' I already have and for now I chose a soft set-up. Anyways.... 1. I am 5'6" and @150-160lbs with size 7 boots. I have a Burton Fusion 160 with Burton SI-X bindings and Burton Driver SI boots. My only complaint about the board is that it is too soft. I would prefer a stiffer board, and maybe one with a 10-11m turning radius. I was considering a Prior ATV for next year. What will the Prior do for me that the Burton won't? Also, is there another board out there that would be better or should I stick with what I got? 2. I am riding angles of 39/30 with a 21.5 inch width and no cant. I have no problem digging deep on green and blue runs, but on black runs my board tends to lose an edge. What am I doing wrong? Is it the angles and/or stance? It it technique? 3. Please explain to me what a hard boot will do that a very stiff Burton SI set-up won't. 4. Does anyone know what width board I could realisticly ride with the foot size I have (again size 7)? Could I ride a 200mm wide race board? Thanks.

I have a Torque from 1995. It is a sm/md in size. shoot me an email at jboard88@hotmail.com if interested. thanks.

Seriously! Like I said, I just want what I put into them. Bought them off of ebay. Paid $75 with shipping. I'm not going to sell them to you for cheeper and take a loss just so you can get a good deal. I will rarely ride them and just thought I'd pass them along to you since you seem like you want them. You don't need to be a dick about it

Hope you are still out there. I was looking for an email but didn't see one. i guess I should have looked here first. Yes they are like the one in the picture above. I just bought them off of ebay and will sell them for what I bought them for...$75.00. Let me know.

i might be interested. How much for the board?

Is this board still for sale? If so I think I will buy it.

Yea I just picked up a pair. I might be interested in selling them. Email me back at jboard88@msn.com if interested.

First let me say that I learned on an apline K2 with soft boots and 3-strap bindings back in 1990 (you could do crazy **** like that back then) and it was hard to learn. The board kept wanting to be on edge and I became really flustered. I switched to my friends freestyle board and within hours everything made sense and I could start skidding down the hill. Based on that experience and nearly 10 years of teaching others how to snowboard I would say start on a soft set up. It will be easier and more forgiving to learn on. Also a soft set up is more versitle. You can carve on a freeride board as well as ride all over the mountain. A hard set up is limiting. Finally, he doesn't even know yet what kind of turning radius and stiffness he wants in a alpine board yet. I wasted a lot of money figuring out what I wanted in a board. my recomendation, get a stiff freeride board like a Donek incline or Burton Fronter and a nice stiff boot like the Burton Drifter. He'll still have fun, be able to learn and carve fairly well.

If they were mediums I would buy them.

I entered my zip but it put me somewhere where I don't actually live. Anyone else have this problem or is it just me? Anyone know how to correct this problem?

Are you still looking for a mtn bike? I may have something you are interested in. I have a Trek 8500LT in great condition. Email me at jboard88@hotmail.com and let me know.