DjulezD

Yes, I can get at the lip, but then I finish my air on the platform. If I understand you correctly, you should start a turn at the middle of the way to the lip, have the apex in the air and finish at above the same height you started the turn on the wall. You don't go straight to the lip as you would in skateboard ?

I have a three that I can join in the mix for a zero !

Ok, it may be off-topic, but I just ended up in the superpipe at Okemo the other day and found it cool. It was the end of the day and the snow was waay too soft to carve on my alpine board anyway. I had never been in the pipe on a snowboard before. But it's all about carving up the wall, right ? Plus I used to ride in pipes on roller-skates so it was no news. But... I realized I didn't know how to drop, and land the aerials, so I ended up jumping on the platform not knowing what to do or doing jerky handplants. Anybody can point me to a good place for technical advice, vids on half-pipe/superpipe ? I would just like to know how to turn and land basic aerial turns and basic rotations.

I have a 168 board that fits your description. Base and edges intact. Medium flex (hand gauge). Don't know much about the specs. Can send pics. Pm me if interested.

I am looking to trade a 3deg TD2 for a 0deg. Still interested (the post is sort of old) ?

Can you consider trading single cant disks ? I have a 3 deg that I would be willing to trade for a 0. Let me know.

Buell, I'm interested too.

Sold. Thanks Scrapster

Never thought about it before, but there is an obvious linkage with the tool below: small circular hard blades (and not files) mounted on an axis so they can adjust to up to 20° angle on each side of the knive's blade. Keeps knives sharp for long. Definitely a good invention that should fine customers in NA. I'll try out the technique with diamonds next time I tune my boards.

It seems to me that the Guantanamo-like suit is popular these days.

I added some pics based on the hi-res version of the overall picture above. I can send more hi-res pics by email on request to intrested buyers. The only signs of wear that are visible to the human eye are: - a bit of wearing on one of the "race" markings - one of the small plastic dots on the toe pad is dulled, but not completely torn off so it doesn't change the overall levelling. Otherwise, nothing in particular, they are gently used. Nothing broken or wearing off.

I thought this one pic captured everything. But sure, I can take more pics. What parts interest you specifically ?

bump on these

Yes, it seems they took it out. It was an animated picture showing counter-rotation and rotation techniques. Very well done. The vid on the push-pull technique on extremecarving.com is good but these little animations helped understand how it differs from counter-rotation. That was a nice educational material. Too bad !

Email sent.

Interested. Just need to check what cant disks you have on those.

Music is a good stimulant and a good pacekeeper. You just need to keep the volume adjusted. I always listen to music while roller-skating but never while snowboarding, which, from a safety perspective, doesn't make any sense, urban jungle being far more crowded than any slope and noises are meant to be signals in this environment. I guess it's because the hills I ride are too small for the music I like.

Keith, thanks for answering. I have to pass on this one. I don't know why I thought I read US size 9, probably because it is a very good deal you are offering here. Up to somebody else to grab !

Thanks tobrien and bump to others. I'll post more pics later.

They fill fit boots from 24 to 31 mp.

SOLD I have snowpro race bindings for sale. Very stiff 6mm bails. Easy to adjust. Some lateral flex. Real good stuff. These are not brand new, but in pretty good condition and working order. They come with all necessary hardware. No canting kit: It means you have 3 deg built-in cant. Bought them like this. FWIW, the complete canting kits can be bought from Dan Yoja for 40$ shipped. Asking 100 $ shipped to the contus. Canadian buyers pay whatever adds up. PM me if you are interested.

Didn't receive your email yet. But look, since you are trying to find out the right setup, I propose the following: - I'll ship to you the 6 deg and bumpers and you try it out over; - If you like it, you send me your zero deg disk and bumpers; - if you don't like it, no problem, you just send back my stuff. At the end of the day, you can finetup your setup for a few shipping bucks. Lemme know.

I am neither a shaper nor a park-rider, but found the question interesting somehow, even though, like Phil pointed out, it is not very clear to start with.. This is why I came up with the no-sidecut board picture of Bruce Varsava from Coiler, to stir up discussion. If it turns up in an argument, I'll just look somewhere else. Now my 2 cents: As far as shape for park boards is concerned, I would say, from my experience in the park in both skateboard and rollerskates, that the sidecut length must act a little bit like the flex in the trucks (either by tightening/loosening thm or by varying the flex of the silentblocks). So, from there, I would say that the longer the sidecut the less forgiving the board would be, but mith more performance. Having said that, it seems to me that most of the shape evolution for freestyle boards has not been on this parameter and rather on rocker (like the skate-banana) or flex of boards. There must be a reason. One option could be to have a board with no sidecut or a very long one and a slightly concave base, which would cover reception/turn initiation needs. But I guess it would be detrimental to speed, hence to overall performance.

Honestly I don't know.

are they still for grabs ? If so: - are they mp 27 - is it possible to have the exact measure of their length (I have size 26.5 raichle boots and there is a 50/50 possibility they may work). Thanks.