valsam

Μy foot with a sock on measures 29,9cm and my burton wind's have written on the lower inside of the shell 30,5-31 and when i try it without the liner it has 1,5 finger space the liner says 31 but after wearing them for 3-4 hours my toes start to hurt a bit (do the liners shrink along the years?) i tried to replace the foot beds of the burton liners because they are really crappy with a pair from my Basketball shoes and the toes hurt more and instantly so in Burton this is definitely my mondo number! So if i understand correctly from Fin's advice if my foot measures 29,9cm than i should have gone with the 29,5-30 shell,but my foot barely fits the 30,5-31 shell! In my other boots the Oxygen Kryptons the shell number is 31-31,5 the liner has written on the back 30 and the foot beds have written on the bottom 31 (now that's pretty confusing!)and beside the liners being 30 they are more spacious than the Burton ones! I guess the shell is bigger on the Oxygen's because the liners are really bulky! So i have a 29,9 (lets make it a round 30!)foot and i found 2 pairs of 2006-2007 DEELUXE Track 325(new on sale 204 euros) with the regular liners not the thermos and 2 pairs of track 700 2007-2008(240 euros) witch pair should i buy the 31 or the 31,5(and witch is better the 325 or the track 700)? As i said online buying is my only option so your advice would help allot! (Can anybody do a full laid carve without the board touching the snow?) I can! Just check out my avatar!

Could anyone help me too in finding my size in Deeluxe track 325? I still wearing my cracked Burton wind's that are mondo 31 and fit perfect but there is nobody that sell's Delluxe boot's in my city and the only way is by ordering them fron the internet and is there anyone of you that went from Burton boots to Delluxe track 325 (with the regular lining not the thermofit!) and seen a diference in sizing ,did you stick with the same number or went half a size up or down?

The Lib-tech guy pissing the Burton logo is seen in the movie "That' it that's all"! It is drawn on the hood of an old car that caries a big tree on the roof! (Can anyone of you do a full layed carve with the board not touching the snow?) (I can! just look at my avatar)

Here is the site http://www.gforcecarving.com/blade.html and it does'nt say anything about metal and from what i see it does'nt even have carbon (it could have some strips) and the 'S' has a carbon top sheet! Maybe Alex could tell us more!

You say that the G-force blade's where so good that you even bought one! So it's not all metal then !!!! Because i never did ride a metal board and i keep reading in hear "metal this-metal that" i thought that i was riding an ancient tec board (it's not a g-force it's an elan ballistic with a full carbon layer with simullar constuction specs i think)even though i love it i was having serious thoughts of buying a metal!

Over here were i live (northern Greece)crowded slopes are inevitable and i think that nobody enjoys running mach speeds between children so the answer for me was a shorter board 1,67 (i am 6.3 and 240pounds)and im loving it,i never thought that a short board could be so much fun,i am doing almost every thing i did on the long boards with just a little less speed but more control! [/img]

After a day of raining and +++ temperatures and then the next day is way below 0 and there is no snow but ice and i mean ice like in an ice skating ring can anybody realy carve or even try to carve without geting killed?

Since 1991 when i started skiing i whore hard construct knee braces on both my legs because of 3 surgeries that i had on both my knees 1)front ACL,2)Back PCL on the same knee, 3)front ACL and meniscus on the other knee all from playing basketball over 15 years! When i skied the pain and the swelling on my knees was horrible so after 5 years of skiing i switched to alpine snowboarding because a friend of mine who alsaw had ACL surgery told me that the pain and swelling was allot less! And true he was! I still wore reinforced neoprene knee braces up until 2 weeks ago when for the first time i forgot them a home! And the feeling not wearing anything on my knees was unbelievable,i felt free and light! I think the only good they did was psychological! After a day of snowboarding my knees still hert and swell a bit but with or without the braces it's the same but the sweling on my calves (they look like a bodybuilders calves)after wearing those neoprenes for 7-8 hours was the worst!

I know that the shell in a deeluxe boot will be 31 or 31,5 but the question is what size liner should i order in deelux because as i mentioned the burton wind liners are 31 and they are a little bit small and the Oxygen krypton liners say that they are 30 and are bigger than the burton's! So that is why i asked if anybody that had burton liners and then changed to deeluxe have seen a change in the numbering!

Could someone help me too finding my boot size and liners in Deeluxe brand? Here where i live nobody sells hardboots and the only way is to buy them is from the internet I currently use my Burton wind's (the shell and tongue are cracked) which have a 29,5-31 shell and a 31 liner , i also have my old Oxygen kryptons (the yellow rubber pads underneath the heals and toes have broken off) which have a 30-31,5 shell but a 30 liner witch by the way is bigger than the the Burton liner that is 31! I think that each company have a little different sizing! So if any of you had Burton wind's did they buy the same number boot in Deeluxe brand ,and if the liner is thermoflex then what?

Do you know anything about the PALE drive alpine line snowboards,are they good for carving?http://www.palesport.com/website/flash/info_graphics/boards_alpin/drive_detailed.jpg I had never heard of PALE boards and i found some here in Greece and they are pretty cheap.

If the run is only 4 or 5 turns and empty sure i can carve 100%! Most of the time i look for open space to hit a couple and do it over and over again because of the danger (once while doing a fast layd out one a skier hit me really bad but he got hit worse ,he did 3 somersaults and landed on his back)and the fitness I'm in that sucks!

It's a 2001 model but i think that 200$ is allot for an 8 year old board! I bought mine for about 250$ brand new in 2001 from a friend racer that got it wholesale from the factory! And i think that the retail went for 500$ But still it is a fantastic carbon tec board!

8-9-10 i think is the scr because 9-10-11 is the scr on the 171 and the waist is i think 19,5-19,7 because the waist on the 171 is 18,7 and the 163 is at least 1cm wider !

Its a really good board that's really turny,i have the 1,71 and a friend has the 1.63 and its a slalom board with parabolic side cut if i remember 9-10-11 with a waist width near 20! If your not taller than 6 feet than its OK.i rode it and i am 6,3-6,4 and 250 pounds!

Burton (Austria)replaced my reactors after 3 years(way out of warranty) of owning them just because i asked them to send me a buckle that had broke! (because the dealers here in GREECE didn't have any spare parts and wouldn't order either!) After 2 years the left boot of the new pair of red-blue winds they send me took in water from the rubber thing at the bottom of the tong and near the toe and i asked if the could just send me the rubber thing,they told me to send the boots to Austria and again they send me a new pair of winds (the green clear ones). Last year the winds plastic lock of the lean mechanism broke (i glued a nut inside the hole and put a screw to keep them locked) and also cracked at the tong and on the shell between the second and third buckle and i tried to epoxy them but it cracked next to the crack i glued i think because of the stiffness the glue caused so i drilled 2 little holes and i still ride them! It's too bad that Burton stopped making hard boots because i think that with the one pair that i had bought from them 12 years ago they would still be sending me new boots even if i just sent them and e-mail and told them that my boots had a little scratch!!!!!!!!!!!

Why is it that "most of you" always suggest very stiff boards? Stiffer isn't always better! If someone wants to go hard boot it doesn't mean that he wants (and has)to do 60 mph to carve! I had a Nitro superGS 1,81 16m side cut radius that was stiff as hell and i can tell you folks that it was the most "not fun" board i ever had!(i had to do top speed to carve on it) I am 6.3, 250 pounds and wear 31 size boots and i like riding softer boards (something like the 3 little bears story)! And i realized that last year after taking a ride on my friends Elan ballistic 1,60 last year(i have the 1,71 witch is stiffer,2cm narrower and has bigger side cut radius)and it was actually a very fun ride because i could do everything that i did om my board with less effort except the very high speed turns and that didn't bother me a bit! So i think that for some starting hard boots (because he is use to freestyle free ride softer flex boards)the best thing is the all mountain board!

And my Elan Ballistic has a hole layer of carbon under the top sheet and it still has the same camber that it had the day i bought it 8 years ago almost 2cm from the ground in the middle as for my other boards that are not carbon all of the seam flatten out! I haven't tried metal but carbon is way better than glass by far!

I guess that the ready sheet won't work because it doesn't have any camber in it and the best way to do this is the hard and sloppy way(resin -fiber -vacuum). So this means that other materials wont work either because they won't have camber in them too! I wanted an easier way to do this! Do the F2 Conshox have camber? And if they do how much? I mean how do they fit several boards? Because each board has a different camber and people in here say that they put them on other manufacture boards too and it worked.

I just noticed that the seller doesn't have longer sheets,i will need at least 90cm long and 17-18 wide and the cost will go up! And by the way what else do you guys think would work(cheap solution!) except carbon fibre! Maybe some kind of metal or plastic(i think that metal would cause the core to break as i have broken 3 boards where the bindings end,front toe, back heel).

As you can see on the link given from the e-bay seller it says that it not a cosmetic vinyl sheet but an actual carbon sheet!

I am thinking of using the 1,8mm sheet that already consists of an epoxy carbon fibre with the recommended epoxy by the e-bay seller (Stabilit-Express witch i can find easely here in Greece )for gluing it to the top sheet after i sand it a little bit and trying to figure a way of how to keep pressure on the carbon sheet so that it will bond evenly!

Didn't anyone tell this guy that's it's not the board that goes fast but the rider!!!!!!!!! I know a guy that can do 60miles on tree branch (without bindings)and standing backwords!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't think that i can buy a Madd not either the conshox or the tinkler carbon thing for 40euros witch is what the carbon sheet will cost with shipping services +another 10 euros for the adhesive=50 euros=40 $. I think that the 1,8mm will stiffen the board better (and it's alot cheaper than the one that hase adhesive on it!) but i haven't worked with carbon never and i don't know how hard is it to do the procedure(I mean cutable,flexible,easy to glue). Realy how thick are the sheets on the conshox or the tinklers or the Madds? And another thing is what kind of glue to use without ruining the topsheet of the board (it's a new board)if the carbon thing don't work and i wish to take it off!

I was wondering if i could apply a carbon fibre sheet somewhat like the F2 conshox on top of my board to give it more stiffnes ! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carbon-Fibre-Sheet-1-8x350x150-mm-100-Carbon-Fiber_W0QQitemZ220265614669QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item220265614669&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1299%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Real-Black-Carbon-Fibre-Sheet-60x30cm-2x2-twill-3M-Boat_W0QQitemZ230306500475QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM?hash=item230306500475&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1299%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 I am thinking of cuting it in the shape something like the conshox or the tinkler and opening holes over the binding holes and aplying some adhesive to the rest or just put a self adhesive carbon fibre sheet(the self adhesive sheet is 0,3mm thick while the one with no adhesive is 1,8mm). Has anyone done this?