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michael.a

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Posts posted by michael.a

  2. Is this a good beginner setup?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    If you are set on the Heads then I would strongly recommend finding a pair that come with the orange tongues. They are considerably softer than the stock black tongues. If you can't score any orange tongues, purchase a BTS kit with yellow springs. Heads are stiff boots for beginners and need considerable mods to be rideable, and that's personal experience talking from someone who had 50+ pds on you. I suffered for two seasons before I softened up my boots.

    The same applies for the bindings, TD3s as metal bindings are far stiffer (even with the yellow e-rings) than (cheaper) all-plastic bindings. Though I would definitely go with the step ins especially if you will be riding on small East coast hills.

  7. Step-in release failures

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    ^^^ Same here, no failure after 8 seasons of use

    I've pretty much used up one pair of F2 heels and replaced one cable that was almost frayed. The cables always fray at the same point, just where the plastic insulation ends at that little plastic cap. On my newest pair of heels I wrapped that area using some duct tape to beef things up.

  10. VIST plate 07 and 14 differences...

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Apex Insider said:

    The old VIST plates had the side rails in two pieces. The reason being - the CNC machine table was too short for the full length rail. I'm not sure when they switched. It was after 2010.

    Old, 2-piece VIST: vist-pate1.jpg

    Current, 1-piece VIST:

    _vyrn_45snowboard_alpine_race_vist_desky

    Be careful buying an old VIST plate. The aluminum discs are held on with ski screws and after repeated removal and re-installation, the threads get loose and strip. 

    Hey (Harry, is it?)

    I'm talking about this one (ver. 14) compared with the 1 piece VIST (ver. 07) you linked. You only have these two to choose from when buying new.

     

    vist_snowplate_14-800x800.jpg

  13. VIST plate 07 and 14 differences...

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    VIST says their 07 and 14 plate are the same, the only difference is aesthetic.

    My buddy was right to point out that almost all athletes use the older 07 plate on the circuit, is there a reason for that, does the 07 have some tangible benefit or is it maybe some version of that never-washed jockstrap magic. I searched and found no definitive answers.

    If it matters standard 4x4 pattern

  15. Wrap your boards fellas - DIY topsheet protection

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    9 hours ago, barryj said:

    Hey Michael

    I was just thinking how am I going to protect my new 175cm Swoard  Gen5 EC carver from the lift noobs and here you go and spell it out for me - Thanks!!

    What do you guys think of this - 3M Scotchgard PRO Series Paint Protection Film Clear Bra 12" x 72" Sheet  $35.95 and Free Shipping!!

     http://www.ebay.com/itm/142322569722?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Great price with free shipping - I've seen this 12x72 inch size/cut for as much as $51  Supposed to be the latest generation of 3m film protection.

    It doesn't say anywhere but from looking around the internet I'm pretty sure this pro stuff is 8mil thick -  my only concern is the thickness.......is 8mil too thick??   

     

    That is a smoking deal, jump on it, I had to buy my stuff here in Europe where we get screwed with VAT. From what I gather the PRO stuff is 8 mils thick. Is it too thick? Well no, my comment was more in line that you should be able to score thinner film for a lower price. 

     

    8 hours ago, Jim Callen said:

    You guys have way too much time on your hands...

    Leisure time has afforded humanity great gifts :) Philosophy, art, democracy, awesome hobbies, this thread....

     

    1 hour ago, barryj said:

    Here's a 4mil 12x72 for $69

    https://www.amazon.com/Rshield-Paint-Protection-Film-Sheet/dp/B0058NW13S?th=1

    I would think 4mil is the way to go - Anybody found anything better??

    Don't understand the negative review, are they saying a thinner film is bad or just the quality of the film per se?

  19. Wrap your boards fellas - DIY topsheet protection

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    1 hour ago, John E said:

    I've used 3M Scotchcal for other things. Works pretty good. I think you mean 8 "mils" (0.008"). This would be about 0.2mm thick. 

    You are completely right, 8 mils not mm. So any 0.1 mm film should do.

    3 hours ago, 1xsculler said:

    I bought a used Coiler to which the previous owner had attached self adhesive spikes across the tail and no one has run across the tail of that board in the lift line.

    Pics please or didnt happen :)

    5 hours ago, drschwartz said:

    Great suggestion, might give it a try...

    Or you could just follow my old adage - a kayak isn't a kayak until you've scratched a few rocks with it.??

    I completely understand, but then I dont think there is anyone who wouldnt go apeshit if someone sideswiped or keyed their brand new car with a "oh what, well it was just standing there". Let alone the resale value, you actually lose money every time someone gouges your poor board.

     

    4 hours ago, corey_dyck said:

    You could seal the edges with clear nail polish to stop lifting.  

    I got sick of the graphics on a board and covered it with cheap 'carbon fiber' vinyl.  Like this: http://www.banggood.com/200x40cm-DIY-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl-Wrap-Roll-Film-Sticker-Car-Decal-Sheet-p-985756.html Black covered the darker graphics on that board, but grey was pretty translucent on a Thias Easy Jungle.  I assume any light color will be like that. 

    It's held up well with nail polish along the edges.  It still gets cut and even peeled from pole plants and other gaper stunts.  It's no where near as durable as 3M paint protection! 

    Does the nail polish "melt" the finish? From what I know most snowboards have a coat polyurethane so it should be quite resistant to nail polish. I didnt mention this part but you can easily remove the 3M film for whatever reason, literally just lift up an edge and pull. Itlll leave a lot of residue but some elbow grease and top secret Goo Gone does the trick.

  20. Wrap your boards fellas - DIY topsheet protection

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by michael.a

    My OCD has gone way down, but few things tick me off more than standing in a lift line and having plebs beat the ever loving crap out of my board and it's not like they care what happens to their stuff either. I still don't get it, didn't they spend their hard earned money on this stuff, why scratch it all up? 

    Anyway, even carrying the board and clipping in before I grabbed the chair didn't cut it, not too long ago some guy who was trying to cut in line just ran over my board leaving a nice sharp cut. 

    Some of my previous cars had paint protection film so I decided why not, let's try it. So here ya go, this is my third application and I'm quite happy with the results. At the end some final thoughts.

    The film I got was 3M's Scotchgard, pretty thick stuff at 8 mm. I previously used odd sized scraps I picked up for free, but for my new SG I decided to buy a 12 x 75" precut peice on ebay. $50 shipped so its definitely not a cheap investment, next time I'll get a no-name knockoff. 

    Topsheet was cleaned with isoproyl alcohol mixed 1:1 with water. Any, and I mean any, dust or crumbs left on the surface will leave little bumps in the film that are almost impossible to remove once you start applying the film.

    5YcYkU.jpg

    I rolled out the film to make sure everything was straight and taped the film down on one end so everything would stay aligned.

    Pbg4MU.jpg

    Fill a spray bottle with water and a nice squeeze of dishwasing liquid. Start peeling the film away from the backing and give everything a nice wet spray but not soaking wet. Roll out the the film on the board.

    qBNX8S.jpg


    Using a plastic card or better yet a rubber squegee (I found credit cards to be too stiff and actually ended up scratching the film), start pushing out all the air bubbles. Rinse and repeat, peel some film back, spray it and the topsheet with your water/dishwashing solution and get rid of the bubbles.

    PJBHI2.jpg

    Nose and tail are a PITA as the film does not want to stay down flat and lifts up at the edge. Take some scissors and cut the film but leave at least 0.5 cm. So something like on the right side below:

    RWfCzd.jpg

    Start waiting. It's best to do this in a warm room so the water mixture can evaporate quicker. You can always use a hair dryer. Check in every so often and see if any air bubbles have formed, it's still easy to push them out. Takesa bout an hour or two to dry out. Afterwards, brab a really sharp razor blade and cut the film as close to the topsheet as possible, even try to cut a mm or two before the edge. You do not want any extra film protruding from the board, it'll catch, collect snow and water, and lift up the film.

     

    uJFLVc.jpg

    That's it

    Couple of things I learned. One application on a softboot board has held up for 2 years with no peeling. However, I ran into a problem with this SG as the topsheet has an eggsheel texture to it that prevents the film from completely sticking. After a couple of runs it started to peel off rom the nose and tail. I basically left it as is and just smooth it out at the end of the day. Doesnt look sexy when it starts to peel off but whatever, at least I'm protected ;) What I'll later do is trim the film a couple centimeters shorter.

    You definitely do not need 8 MILS film. I think 5 MILS is more than ample for protection against errant ski poles and the such. And no need for the name brand, 3M is obviously good stuff but any other paint protection film will do.

    edit: sharp eye from John E, I meant 8 MILS film not 8 mm. So use something half that.

    • Like 1

  23. good carver at Crystal Mt., WA today?

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by michael.a

    13 hours ago, AcousticBoarder said:

    I don't know. Most of the hardbooters I run into on the mountain are atleast registered here, though it is not uncommon for them to not post. 

    I should have mentioned I'm speaking from a European perspective. I still find it impressive that so many started to ride in hardboots without the guidance an internet forum provides, I would be completely lost. But it wasn't until I attend my first carving camp that I made true progress. Haven't been to one in a couple of years and I feel... stagnation. 

  24. good carver at Crystal Mt., WA today?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    From personal observation Id say only 1-5% of hardbooters are actually registered on a carving forum and even less post, a couple more lurk, couple more just dont have the time and the rest just dont know or care. Forums on the whole are dying as are many civic associations, clubs, informal and formal groups. Too much time and effort.

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