Dr D

sounds great. Its been my experience that its a whole defferent set of forces involved on the skwal than on a board. I don't think the lack of an Ering will be a big factor. the ability to move my td2's back and forth easily from board to skwal will be a big deal though. whats the price factor going to be or do you know yet? I need to figure it into my budget for the year!!!

actually this was in 1991 and the board was brand NEW at that time :biggthump :biggthump :biggthump

mine is also 11.5

I did a lot more off piste riding with it. my boots were way stiffer but the bindings were more flexy I guess. the wide shovel nose on it would take any conditions. I did a lot of moguls with it and was maneuverable in the trees in the deep and steep. I find the new stuff to be unwieldy in the trees and find that I prefer the softies off piste. I hope to find a hard boot replacement for the M6 something short and wide with similiar geometry.

I hope to ride it enough to get a feel for it again. I was able to do things with that board and a pair of raichle rear entry ski boots that I can't do on the new equipment. I rode it in the moguls alot as a kid and a lot of back country deep and steep etc. looking at it a few things come to mind its short and really wide at the tip. I think it was one of the first all mountain specific alpine boards. any how I was going to pick john's brain over at Garage and see if I can comission a modern updated board that has similiar characteristics on the mountain and isn't quite so retro looking. then it will go on the wall

I will check for you. I want to say its right at 12 cm but it has been a while since I looked at it that close. Its an old thias that was made pre insert. I had inserts mounted in it myself. Are you saying I could order something along the lines of a second board kit that my new TD2's I just ordered would transfer To? what about the canting etc. I currently have an old set of wild duck snowboard bindings on it. they are not much wider than the four whole disc and they fit perfectly . a burton race plate hangs out over the edge considerably if that helps.

hey I finally got my hands on an old M6 like my first board and its in great shape with the exception of the topsheet. the topsheet has these little cracks in it like spiderwebby looking. they don't go clear thru the topsheet but I was curious if anyone has seen this and knows the cause and or steps necessary to prevent it from getting worse. It seems to be cosmetic but what do I know? sun damage maybe ????

one set of variflex or FLex bindings from burton. the old three strap ones from the early nineties or late eighties. they are in good shape with the exception of on of the forward lean latches is broken. the uppers are in good shape on both and all straps and buckles are in good shape. would make good parts for those custom soft boot binding setups while you wait for catek to make more. any way best offer they are taking up space.

They have to be the stiffest most unforgiving bindings out there. ignore the naysayers and go to a softer binding like a burton or an f2. the suspension kit for a set of td2 wouldn't be bad either. I would also recomend a custom board. I had an all mountain board made for me by garage that is nice and wide its roots are in racing so the geometry carves well. I had them put in an extra layer of carbon to stiffen it up and honestly its the best carver that I own. I ride it with both plates and softies depending on the mood I am in. I can hook you up with the boardmaster from garage if you want.

any one know a source for reasonably priced skwal specific bindings?

trying to justify the new bombers I just bought complete with suspension system. the wife is questioning my toy budget:eplus2: some of this stuff has to go so please help out:biggthump where are the gear vaccuums when you need them?:rolleyes: I would love to post the pictures but they are to big and I don't know how to shrink them. feel free to enlighten me on the subject or point me in the right direction.

everything is still available except for the PJ7 I am also adding a set of rental race plates to go with the individual one above as a group of 3 for $125.00 yes that is a set of burton rental plates with an extra for parts etc. for $125.00 Also one set of step ins from burton is available but I plan on keeping one set or the other so it depends on the response.

Did you get the pics of the boots? I did send you some didn't I? I have vacation hangover sorry don't remember.

The switches I assume? let me know what you want and I will get you more details.

I have returned so here is a bump make some offers folks I need to move this stuff before the wife blows a gasket:biggthump I am doing some digging and should have a couple sets of burton bindings to unload as well. I also have a good selection of vans switch softies in various sizes and a couple of sets of those bindings as well.

Its a goofy Asym board with the bindings mounted regular. the angles I didn't even look at to closely but they appear a little off as well. No judgements of course but definitely living outside the box:biggthump

depending on what you mean by "compressed spine" you have several options ranging from mild and noninvasive to radical and extremely invasive. As a chiropractor I would of course recomend trying the non invasive first. With disc specific injury I would recomend a Specific type of chiropractor. You can get a referral in your area from Gonstead.com or Gonsteadseminar.com this is a tried and true technique that is very specific and designed around the disc. I work with serious disc cases regularly with good results. I would suggest you seek medical care if you have bowel and bladder control issues as well as any loss of muscle control. A truly serious blown disc can cause caudae equine syndrome and is a bona fide medical emergency. up to that point your best chance at a positive outcome with the least effect on your favorite activities is at a good chiropractor. I also work with many people suffering from failed back surgery issues. once they cut you the scar tissue is permanent and can be serious problem. If the bone is disurbed at the periosteum,overcalcification and excess spurring can cause problems. Research thoroughly any choice you make and if you choose surgery I would also recomend the less invasive option listed above in the previous response. Let me know where you are and I can perhaps find you a good chiro to visit. I would stay away from diversified technique in your case as the rotation is not well tolerated by a hot disc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/BURTON-SNOWBOARD-5-FT-long-carving-tail-GREAT-Cond_W0QQitemZ260059734331QQihZ016QQcategoryZ36297QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem check out the binding set up on this one.:lol: He says he learned on it back in the day. damn I wish he had some video to back up that claim. three strap bindings mounted backwards -----must be some new technique I missed:freak3:

Snowing like its never gonna stop folks. looks like all the snow dancing the last month paid off. see you on the hill

The snow is falling and may never stop. Looks like its gonna be the year. better start planning your trips now:biggthump :biggthump

I think I can get my hands on a can or two of chartreuse body paint:lol:

cateks can flex the entire boot if they are adjusted to tight. If you have to fight to get the buckle closed that might be a problem. I saw a set of cateks literally bend the whole bottom of the boot enough to see it happen when they were buckling them on. I wouldn't be suprised if bombers were capable of the same thing. price we pay for bulletproof:eplus2:

If you have switched to a thicker sock after molding this is even more likely the case. Over tightening of the boot will reduce the flow of blood to parts of your foot causing a great deal of pain as the tissue becomes oxygen starved. this is why it happens over time and not immediately upon putting the boots on. It will also happen more on the chair when you aren't moving and flexing your feet. It is a fit problem if you feel they have to be that tight to maintain control. I would suggest starting by remolding the inserts without tightening them completely. Say one notch less than you would like to ride them. Be sure and mold with the same sock you will ride in. when you wear them don't tighten them down until they warm up and stabilize. they will be stiff when you first put them on and more prone to cause problems. once the muscle is starved of oxygen it will hurt even if you get the boots right, unless you take them off massage them and start over. If that doesn't work see the good advice above on a good boot fitter

The PJ is spoken for

pics sent did you get them?