lex Posted February 23, 2006 Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 Hello all... i am alex. been riding softie for many years now and got frustrated with my little board and poor bindings. i decided i needed a new snowboard. since i am never really going to be a good freestyle boarder and prefer speed, straight jumps, and enjoying the run, i decided (after some research) that i want to make the switch. i got a 4 year old cocoon lotus 164 with f2 proflex bindings for a very good price. i am waiting for it to arrive. am i crazy to start with this board? it will be a little big for me. i am 5'6" 135lbs. any tips, suggestions? i have been trying to read up on technique as much as possible. i am excited to try it out (i live in the swiss alps!) thanks, alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted February 23, 2006 Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 Not Crazy - but you may have a few bumps & bruises for the first couple of days. If you're a decent softboot rider you should adjust pretty quickly once you get used to the binding angles. I have never ridden that particular board but I hear it's relatively stiff, so it may take some additional effort on your part to get it into a carve, but you can do it! Just get out there and ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 23, 2006 Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 It's a very stiff board, not a freecarver, but a true race board. Not too great choice for first setup. First time I rode it I struggled a bit and I'm 6' 165lb... Needs a bit of speed to start carving. However, it holds great edge and is quite stable at speed. Idea: put your new plates on old "soft" board and practice with that until you got used to higher angles and carving arcs. Here's my review of the board: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=9596 Question: Are your bindings like the one I've got with the board? Regards, Boris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy D Posted February 23, 2006 Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 I started out on a Volkl RT SL, 158, and moved up to a 163 soon thereafter. Sure, I got knocked around a bit the first few days, but once I figured out how the board wanted to be ridden, it wasn't any trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted February 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 thanks for the feedback thus so far! here is a general reply: when i decided i wanted to make the switch i decided to research a bit into it. spent a lot of time on the carvers almanac and other sites reading. while a free carve probably would have been better to start, i decided to go for this board for a few reasons. CA suggested getting a used board and suggested some types, race boards (detuned slightly) we among the choices. i got this setup for under 100 dollars, i am a poor architecture student abroad so cash is very limited. because of that reason i have had my last board for 10 years, if i was to buy a board i would keep it for a while, i wanted some thing to keep working at that i would not outgrow. i also tend to dive into things head first, never the easy way. the plates on my little board is a good idea, the only thing is that i will be excited to try out the new board. i guess the other thing is my soft board is a very small trick deck i got when i was younger and smaller. not stable at most any speed. I like it but i see that i need to move past it. what are some tips or techniques for controlling a stiffer/longer board? i do figure the first few times out will be kinda tough but i think i am up for the challenge. there are a lot more alpine riders here in switzerland so i hope i might be able to befriend one. BlueB: I will send you some pic of it and the binding info when i receive it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy D Posted February 23, 2006 Report Share Posted February 23, 2006 Have you checked out the WELCOME CENTER? Lots of articles on setup and technique there. Check them out! They helped me quite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted February 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 been reading and re-reading. been watching lots of videos too. i tend to do my research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin A. Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 I started out on a Coiler 184 Pure Race II. Basically, the same story as you, except 20 cm longer. It beat the living sh*t out of me for about 4 days before I finally tamed it. Remember: Drink OJ after riding, maybe pop a tylenol, drink LOTS of water and stock up on IcyHot. Then go out and do it again. You'll love it. Good luck I'll be over here watching... but really, you'll be fine. ________ Yamaha Fz6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted February 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 i will keep those tips in mind! Also, can anyone tell me about the bindings? They are PROFLEX F2's. Are they all metal or do they have a plastic base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 Nothing wrong with learning on race board and it can be done. But then, there are hard ways of learning things, and there are quick easy ways... The board you've got is for 60-80kg racer or 70-90kg frecarver (it's written on the top sheet), so at 135lb you are right at the bottom line of racing span - can you imagine how hard would it be to flex? A friend of mine, spent years trying to learn on a stiff Generics GS race board. Then, towards the end of last year he bought smaller (length and scr) and softer Rosi, and it all clicked in. From there he progressed to Sword (still softer than Generics). I found that Generics to be easier to ride than Cocoon, now, you go figure. Board you've got is an excellent machine, and yo'll enjoy it a lot when you get heavier and fluent in carving. However it might prove to be too hard for lerning - like trying to drive in a picture nail with a 10lb mallet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Salomon Orangge Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 I'll tell you this... I recently took up a hard booting again after having given up on it for the past 6 or 7 years. I bought myself a Volkl Renntiger 173. The board is SICK now that I know how to ride it, but let me tell you about the first few times. I've been riding a Salomon DT152WW (wide width) for quite a while. The board is fantastic, I can rail on that thing, and carve nice deep grooves. Well... previous to that, my racer had been a Rossignol Race 153 VAS. Old board, but I loved it, and used it alot. Anyway... jumping from a 152 to a 173 was a gigantic change for me, and I found myself in alot of trouble trying to turn the board faster than it was feasably capable. Heh... should have seen me out there. Was having to ditch out of carves toward the tail end and purposely fall in order to stay on the trail. Trails are narrow at the place I was using it, so it was all that more difficult. Gradually, I began to understand what the board is capable of, and I can tell you that I love the Volkl. Not only does it look awesome (black with subtle silver stripes at the tail end), but it rides and holds a good edge especially in a deep carve. I ended up putting a set of Bomber TD1s on it, and I really dont regret that at all. Hardcore piece of equipment those Bombers. Looks like a piece of industrial machinery smacked onto my board. So anyway... This is I believe my 18th season of snowboarding. You really wont pick it up right away and be comfortable with it, but you have to remember that you WILL get into it, and... heh.. people always oooh and ahhh at the guys laying out on the snow carving it up, and yeah, I'm one of those guys now. Keep with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 BlueB: i hope i do not gain weight, i am perfect for my height and body type. given that it is a used board that was ridden for a few years, i hope that it might be a little more flexible than when new. when flexing the board is described i assume that it means that when you initiate a carve the board flexes so that the side cut radius curve makes complete contact with the line and forces the board to move in a curve of that radius... SolO: thanks for the words of encouragement! still waiting for seller to get back to me on whether the payment was received (ebay can be stressful sometimes). my boots should ship monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 the F2 bindings you chose have a lot of flex as compared to say a TD2 that should make the transition easier. my first time on CAteks nearly killed me. the board wouldn't bend and neither would the bindings so the board rode me instead of the other way around. you may have trouble getting heel and toe lift right with that set up though. hopefully you got some extra screws and shims with the bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 after not so patiently waiting for my board to come by post... IT HAS! unpacked it and checked it out. the board has been ridden (the PO was a racer and won many with it) and its got plenty of little nicks and suck in it (to be well expected). The edges and base are in good shape and it has plenty of way on it. edges need a little work but... the board still has 5-6mm camber left in it. the proflex f2s look to be original... it was set for a regular rider so i had to rotate everything around to goofy. there are cant wedges in the plates so i made sure to orient them properly (as prior only goofy). adjusted the bails to my Raichle 124 (with 4th strap). the angles are set high. 60 front 55 back because of board width and they were comfortable there. i also moved the stance as far in as i could for two reasons, one: i have a close in stance (comes from aikido training) and second: to try to have more weight in the middle (the board is stiff and i am light). i hope to get out thursday to the hill in chur or on sunday my studiomates are going to head to flims/laax (i am told it is the best in the area). thanks for everyones advice! BlueB: I will get a pic up when i can so you can see another lotus. shape looks the same and all but the topsheet is different... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 bottom of the board says: 10% PSS 60-80 kg Carver 70-90 kg racer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Hey Lex, I'm looking forward to see your new baby, and the bindings too. Mine had about 12-15mm camber, so maybe yours is a bit "tired", therefore easier to flex... Wont have much pop, though. I sold mine other day... Oh, btw, you've got the Racer/Carver weights wrong way round... B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 i will need a few days to get pics up. my cam has been down because the battery charger is lost in international mail so i am borrowing a friends. got the measuring stick out and it actually has 10mm camber left on it, so tired but not too... :) put my boots on and i was able to flex it. i have a feeling i am going to get a whole new set of muscles... on the bottom (snow side) tail it says "Lotus 64, pss 10%, racer weight 70-95 kg, carver weight 60-85 kg" interesting eh? any idea what the progressive side cut 10% is about? did you sell your 64 or the 58? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Sold the 164 (too stiff for me ;) ). Actually I got given the Generics I told you about, and prefer it for my height... Still have the 158, and if it doesn't sell soon, I'm going to try it - soooo beautiful. Progressive side cut means that it is not a uniform radius, but it gets tighter (usually towards tail). I've calculated average radius to about 11.9m on my 164. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Misfit27 Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Lex, I'm interested to know how learning has gone so far. I just got my ebay hardboots and will start (on an oversized soft powder board) in a few weeks. Any words of wisdom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 i will let ya know after my first run on sunday! Lex, I'm interested to know how learning has gone so far. I just got my ebay hardboots and will start (on an oversized soft powder board) in a few weeks. Any words of wisdom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 here are some pics!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 and a few more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Misfit27 Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 That board looks sweet. Good luck. Remember, you want to land on the waxed side of the board. Then again, if I did that, I wouldn't have this great arthritis at 31. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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