Wendell Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Hello, I realize this will be different for everyone but, any advice on a starting point for binding set-up? I tried both bindings at 52 degrees, 18.5" apart, on a 167cm. The bindings are Catek OS2, not step-in. I set the front level side-to-side but with a slight angle forward (toe down), and the rear more forward with a slight inward cant. Not having ever tried anything else, it felt OK. I am tall and about 195lb. I was able to get control and carve on the first day and even tried some nasty bumps. The bindings shook loose but I think I have figured that out. (the KP o-ring and spacer was reversed) Waiting for the new Axxess 172 to arrive. Any advice or directions to good advice is appreciated. Hoping for snow in VT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedzilla Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 What is the waist width of the board? In my opinion, one problem with the Catek's is that they can actually be too adjustable. If it were me, I'd start with the bindings level (no cant), and keep the front binding about 3-4 degrees steeper than the rear. So if your rear is at 52, try putting the front at 55-56ish. I'm sure you'll many other opinions as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Most people (not all) who use toe/heel lift will lift the toe of the front foot and the heel of the rear foot. so if you are higher in the heel on the front foot, it may cause some balance problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendell Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Thanks, The board is an Original Sin, "Sinner" race board, not sure of width but 52 was about the most I could get without overhang. Rode last weekend on old ski boots which dug into shins, got some Raichle 123s to try this weekend. They feel better around the house, but are quite soft. So, try front toe up, back heel up? No cant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncermak Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 If you want to come up to bousquet, we can play with your set up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedzilla Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Thanks, The board is an Original Sin, "Sinner" race board, not sure of width but 52 was about the most I could get without overhang. You must mean, the lowest angle you could get without overhang? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendell Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Yup, the lowest angle without dragging with a size 28 boot. I'm an experienced softbooter and usually stand at 27/12, so 52/52 was the nearest to that. Looks like I might try 57/52 with the flip-flop tilt, front up-back down. Also, the new Donek is wider. I guess it is gonna take some fooling around. I've tried with my soft boots to set it and leave it, other than the board changes for conditions, like Fish or Spline, Malolo or Timeless, Supermodel or Crossbow. Then I'm not trying to analize too much stuff at once. I try to have 3-4 boards rigged, tuned, and ready to ride, and favorites come and go. Looks like this will happen with carving set-ups too. Where's Bousquet? Will be at Jay Peak Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackDan Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 I did this by my self, and you could too, but it might be a bit easier if you had a friends help. Stance width: put your boots on and standing on the floor align your boots roughly to the angle you want to ride at. Jump up in the air a few times getting both feet off the ground, try and land where your legs are comfortable. Have your friend measure your stance width. Set the bindings on the board for that width or just slightly wider (1/4"). Set the binding angle where you think you want to ride at. As an example set the front at 56, rear slightly less (55 to maybe 50). Now put the Catek binding plates on and tighten the center mounting screws and with the 4 corner adjusting set screws roughly where you think you want things but leave them slop by about 1/8" at each corner. Get into the bindings and while maintaining the binding angle (you'll have to do this since the set screws are not holding the binding angle, flex your knees and rotate your upper body. While you are doing this have your friend (or be aware of) see where the binding screws are hitting. If your floating and never touch, set out, tighten the screws one turn and repeat. If you notice that you are hard against the rear screws on the front binding, tighten the front two screws and loosen the rear. Continue until you have the screws tight and the bindings where they fit you. What you are aiming for is the tightening those set screws until you have the bindings set, where your legs, knees, hips feel comfortable standing, and squating, facing forward and side to side. That will typically be a bit front toe up and rear heel up (basic geometry). Then go ride the board and see how it is. make small adjustments after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Thanks, The board is an Original Sin, "Sinner" race board, not sure of width but 52 was about the most I could get without overhang.Rode last weekend on old ski boots which dug into shins, got some Raichle 123s to try this weekend. They feel better around the house, but are quite soft. So, try front toe up, back heel up? No cant? First of all Raich-s 123 are way too soft for you and so is the Sinner (I have the same one)... I weight around 175-180 and I find it on the soft side... Though it's not a real issue for an all-mtn(ish) board.. BTW, it has a 21cm waist. Not that great of a board - i have to admit... I'm sure you'll love the axis... Can't advize you anything on bindings setup, other than to start with the front one perfectly flat and the rear one with some heel lift and no canting at all... oh yeah, and don't try to run for the lowest possible angles... Just a thought.. just a thought... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendell Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Wow, thats detailed info. I will follow your advice and try it out. One observance I made, technique-wise, while learning the hardboot carve (on the only day I did it) was that while softbooting I could ride more upright and neutral, but the hardboots seemed to want me to be lower, throw my weight forward by driving the forward knee hard into the turn on the toe side, and driving the butt forward to initiate on the heel side. Also, I wanted to have my body in an "L" something like a ski racer, to get more weight on the edge but have the upper body vertical, all while maintaining into-the-fallline attitude. Probably no news to you guys. This is how I ride when trying to exaggerate technique to intermediates, and it seemed to work for me on my first day of hardbooting. Does that sound roughly right. Of course, I need time on the board to get more comfortable. Practice, etc., etc. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/setup.cfm http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendell Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Even more excellent info there. Looks like I'll widen stance and start with a little rear boot outward cant, and some Fr-toe/Rr-heel lift, also move to around 55/50. Looks like the Raichles already have outward cant too. Sounds like they might end up too soft and I'll go to something stiffer later. Any boot suggestions for widish, high-arch feet. Heads maybe? Suppose I should learn to carve icy steeps first. Can manage it OK on a freeride/softboot board, just a leap of faith and practice. Also sounds like I should not throw my body around so much. This site is amazing. Quite a community. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Don't throw those Raichlie boots away. They could work well on that axis for all mountain riding. i ride a prior 4x4 174 with Lemans boots. Angles 45 front 40 rear. width 20 inches. 3 degrees front foot 6 degrees rear. That is the bomber discs. I ride a stiffer boot on my carve specific boards Head Stratos pro. angles are steeper 57 front 54 back same discs. The mellower angles on the 4x4 make it eaiser to negoiate powder bumps and uneven snow. Also the board is wider - no need to ride steeper angles . Size 27 boot I weigh 185. You will need a softer boot if you ever come out west to ride powder. I demoed an axis and the prior is slightly softer. I liked the axis too and it will work well on the east coast I would imagine. . I can turn quickly when I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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