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Wendell

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    26
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  • Location
    Warren, VT
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Sugarbush
  • Occupation?
    Publishing
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Freeride stuff, so far.

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  1. I'm a good carver in softies and rarely drag an edge. I also change radius and do a series of sl turns, then switch to larger gs type turns. Once we see positive temps back here on Friday, I am trying the Donek with less angles. I may move to a freestyle board with hard boots so I don't have toe drag. Sorry to the original poster here too (was giving my perspective on why the sport is waning) but really appreciate all the advice on set up and perseverance. .
  2. Great advice, both. Thanks. Could be hope for me yet. Will start by reducing my OS2 angles and see how it goes, maybe 55/47. Also, will give it more time. If I could learn to tele (to intermediate level), for sure I could manage this with more effort. Btw, soft boot angles are 21/12 both forward facing. I have been able to hold a carve on the Donek, especially toe side, and I tend to pop/jump turn on the transition with all the energy loaded up. Assume in time will learn more finesse to roll the transition better. I might try a regular freeride board with the hard boots as a stop gap measure. Could be the ticket I need. @ Alpine Ace: Could probably find a buyer for that T bar if your dream never materializes. Best of luck with that.
  3. Degree of difficulty. Perspective from a soft boot rider, alpine wannabe: I've been wanting to get into carving for years but find it too difficult compared to soft boot riding. Probably doing something wrong (technique or set up) but have tried and failed. I ride 100 days a year in the NE in softies and have ridden for 22 years, so experience is not the problem, and I work at a resort. Bought a Donek Axxess 172 with OS2 (55/55) and older Raichle 123 boots that are comfortable enough if a bit soft. Actually bought 3 alpine boards to use but sold them in frustration. The Donek is roughly 5 years old and has perhaps 10 hours of use. Here's the problem in a nutshell: compared to my usual set up, the boots are less comfortable, the stance is awkward, and it is hard to get the back foot in when starting off. Every year I take it out and try, every year I give up after a couple of hours. I am relieved to get back in my softies and stand at 21/12. I bought Catek's FR2 and tried at steepish angles with my Driver Xs but did not work and they were overly fiddly, so sold them too. Was trying to find a compromise. I've read many set up threads here as well as advice on getting started. Am I just lazy or is alpine snowboarding just hard to learn, even for the experienced? Nothing prettier than seeing a decent hard boot rider turn it uphill, and as many have said, even skiers are in awe of the carves. There must be a reason you rarely see a hardbooter at Sugarbush. Would still like to learn one day. Any magic bullets?
  4. New 2007 Catek FR2 Pro bindings. Used once. Perfect condition. $350 shipped to the US. All bits and pieces included. These have the Nidecker straps. wendella@optonline.net
  5. Even more excellent info there. Looks like I'll widen stance and start with a little rear boot outward cant, and some Fr-toe/Rr-heel lift, also move to around 55/50. Looks like the Raichles already have outward cant too. Sounds like they might end up too soft and I'll go to something stiffer later. Any boot suggestions for widish, high-arch feet. Heads maybe? Suppose I should learn to carve icy steeps first. Can manage it OK on a freeride/softboot board, just a leap of faith and practice. Also sounds like I should not throw my body around so much. This site is amazing. Quite a community. Thanks.
  6. Wow, thats detailed info. I will follow your advice and try it out. One observance I made, technique-wise, while learning the hardboot carve (on the only day I did it) was that while softbooting I could ride more upright and neutral, but the hardboots seemed to want me to be lower, throw my weight forward by driving the forward knee hard into the turn on the toe side, and driving the butt forward to initiate on the heel side. Also, I wanted to have my body in an "L" something like a ski racer, to get more weight on the edge but have the upper body vertical, all while maintaining into-the-fallline attitude. Probably no news to you guys. This is how I ride when trying to exaggerate technique to intermediates, and it seemed to work for me on my first day of hardbooting. Does that sound roughly right. Of course, I need time on the board to get more comfortable. Practice, etc., etc. Thanks again.
  7. Yup, the lowest angle without dragging with a size 28 boot. I'm an experienced softbooter and usually stand at 27/12, so 52/52 was the nearest to that. Looks like I might try 57/52 with the flip-flop tilt, front up-back down. Also, the new Donek is wider. I guess it is gonna take some fooling around. I've tried with my soft boots to set it and leave it, other than the board changes for conditions, like Fish or Spline, Malolo or Timeless, Supermodel or Crossbow. Then I'm not trying to analize too much stuff at once. I try to have 3-4 boards rigged, tuned, and ready to ride, and favorites come and go. Looks like this will happen with carving set-ups too. Where's Bousquet? Will be at Jay Peak Sunday.
  8. Thanks, The board is an Original Sin, "Sinner" race board, not sure of width but 52 was about the most I could get without overhang. Rode last weekend on old ski boots which dug into shins, got some Raichle 123s to try this weekend. They feel better around the house, but are quite soft. So, try front toe up, back heel up? No cant?
  9. Hello, I realize this will be different for everyone but, any advice on a starting point for binding set-up? I tried both bindings at 52 degrees, 18.5" apart, on a 167cm. The bindings are Catek OS2, not step-in. I set the front level side-to-side but with a slight angle forward (toe down), and the rear more forward with a slight inward cant. Not having ever tried anything else, it felt OK. I am tall and about 195lb. I was able to get control and carve on the first day and even tried some nasty bumps. The bindings shook loose but I think I have figured that out. (the KP o-ring and spacer was reversed) Waiting for the new Axxess 172 to arrive. Any advice or directions to good advice is appreciated. Hoping for snow in VT!
  10. Received and they fit nice! Ready to rip this weekend. Thanks.
  11. I'm in Malamutes for about three years and carve freeride boards with no problem (even the Fish). Love the Malamutes.
  12. Wow, my first time at Bomber and any talkgroup for that matter. Do you really think this Internet thing will stick? Thanks to everyone for the replies. Looks like a 172 is for me. Sean said the same. Mike, yes, that was me at Sugarbush. And you thought I wasn't paying attention. What about bindings?
  13. I'm moving over from soft to hard boots after 15 years and looking to buy an all-mountain carver, maybe a Donek Axxess. Can anyone recommend a size? I'm 195lb and tall. Problem is, I still want to spend time in trees and bumps. In VT trees are tight. Thinking of 167cm or 172cm? Any suggestions?
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