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Prior WCR 181


ajcannon

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I've got this deck on hold for the next 24 hours and am considering buying it. See this link for the specs. The board is ready to ship and they say it is their "standard stiffness" for this model. It is the Prior WCR 181 - see link below for geometric specs.

http://www.priorsnowboards.com/boards_wcr.php#

Any words of wisdom? I explained my situation in a previous thread, but basically I'm looking for a serious carving board to do wide GS style turns. I want to do the full-blown euro-carve fully-laid-out turns. I've been riding a half freeride/half carving board (Burton Coil 72) for the last three years, but the small radius 10.26 and flexibility make it somewhat limited for high-speed turns. Since I already have the Burton, I want this next board to be a serious carver. I weight 200 lbs, am 6'2" and wear size 12 shoes.

Is this board the right choice for what I want it to do (assuming I set it up right and improve my technique a bit)? Any reservations or words of warning? Would the 185 be a better choice? Other ideas?

If I buy it, I'll likely set it up with my old Burton bindings and hard boots for this year, and then upgrade those next year - see any problem with this strategy?

Your previous replys have been a huge help already...thanks in advance. -AJ

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Wow. BIG step up from a Coil. I think you should spring for the TD's also, Prior will give you a discount if you buy them with the board. This carving instrument will be wasted with the Burton bindings, but hey, that's my opinion only.

The sidecut is a bit big for the Euro thing, but not unmanageable. The 185 would for sure be too big, check at extremecarving.com, but I think the Euro style works better with a 10 to 12 sidecut, so maybe a 175 Prior WCR would be a better choice.

Why not demo a few first before you commit?

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The EC guys use a board with a 13m sidecut radius, which is what the 181 has, so it should be perfect. However GS racers use 14 to 16m sidecuts (I believe most ride 15m), so a 13 is not going to carve super wide turns.

I've ridden the Prior 181 and it's a spectacular board, very versatile.

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Thanks everyone for your comments.

Chris: I agree with you...in a perfect world I would go some place where I could demo a bunch of decks, but logistically I live in Iowa and only get out to the mountains once or twice per year . I usually go to Steamboat and there just isn't a place that demo's carving decks there. So it's kind of a stab in the dark. Just have to gather info and take my best guess - then live with it. It's about a $700 guess so I've gotta hassle you guys for your opinions :)

Jack: I'm definately looking for a 13m radius (or at least upper 12's). I don't race and never will but I do get pretty aggressive in decent conditions so I want a board that is pretty stiff but maybe not quite racer stiff. I don'tride terribly fast, buut I do like to make powerful turns at moderately high speeds. Sounds like the 181 would work OK in that regard.

Bob: you had the 185 right? You say it was tough in bad conditions...is it just stiff as a board? I like to do tight fall-line turns down the edge of trails when it gets crowded - is that still possible on this board? I can always setup the Coil on crappy or over-crowded days.

Thanks guys. -AJ

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I ride a WCR 185. seems pretty versatile to me although Ive certainly stuffed the nose in soft conditions. nearly broke my shin bone last year, but...rider error?

the 185 rips. period. I dont bother trying to name my turns, or profess to ride "EC" style...I just ride, and it works. its a race board...not intended for fluff soft or slush. firm fast snow it likes.

the 181 would obviously be a bit more maneuverable.

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Any Prior WCR will be a good board, I'm just thinking that the sidecut puts it at the upper range of the EC style. Certainly a 13m sidecut can still turn tight, but it will also be stable at higher speeds. I'm using a 181 WCR custom with a 14 sidecut as my "bigger" board, and it's ridiculous how tight it turns.

When you're going to Steamboat post here and get some locals to show you around - and swap boards! Every trip we take seems to include gear swaps or demos of some kind, it's part of the fun. Enjoy the Prior!

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Jack: I'm definately looking for a 13m radius (or at least upper 12's). I don't race and never will but I do get pretty aggressive in decent conditions so I want a board that is pretty stiff but maybe not quite racer stiff. I don'tride terribly fast, buut I do like to make powerful turns at moderately high speeds. Sounds like the 181 would work OK in that regard.

I think it would work great. You won't be disappointed.

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It's like my Coiler RC II. Due to your shoemondo, I think you are gonna have a hard time doing fully laid out linked eurocarve turns. Because you're stance angles gonna be steep (think in the 65/70 range) to have no bootoverhang, but may be with some practice it must be possible. I think this is more a bomberlike carveboard which I like a lot too since I rode my Coiler (just for one hour till now in heavy snowy conditions). Just carve low and have fun.

My SWOARD which I use for Eccarves is a very sloppy board/not so stiff board in longitudal but stiff enough torsionalwise. I certainly think you gonna love the Prior but it's not the utmost eurocarveboard. Just my 2 cents.

Greets, Hans.

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They are shipping it tomorrow.

I thought long and hard about the shoe size thing...you are right, I probably won't ever be able to do the extreme eurocarve stuff- but I'll get pretty close to it. I thought about the Swoard, but for a first serious carving board I was looking for something a little more mainstream. Oddly enough, steep angles have always felt natural to me...the bigger adjustment for me will be widening my stance - I've been riding 16-1/2" apart (that felt natural too).

They did tell me that this deck (I think it is a 2004-2005 model) is a bit more flexible that previous years. That I hope will be about right for me since I don't race.

I'll ride it this year with the Burton bindings and boots (assuming I can find a couple 4-hole discs). I'll upgrade the rest next year - then I'll have two set-ups I can ride (damn I sound like a spoiled little kid). Life is short right?

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll post something after my first day on it. Thanks again. -AJ

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you are right, I probably won't ever be able to do the extreme eurocarve stuff

Nonsense. Any quality alpine board can be used for any style of carving.

the bigger adjustment for me will be widening my stance - I've been riding 16-1/2" apart (that felt natural too).

At 6'2" you should be at 20" easy, or more. Figure out a way to get some toe lift on your front binding and heel lift on your back binding. You may have to get creative with some wood and longer hardware, but it will make a wider stance feel comfortable. And your carving will benefit immensely.

They did tell me that this deck (I think it is a 2004-2005 model) is a bit more flexible that previous years. That I hope will be about right for me since I don't race.

I hope you told them how much you weigh.

Anyway, congrats and enjoy!

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I disagree with Jack who says that you can board every style with every board. Just try doing some fully laid linked eurocarves with a slalomboard with a 8 or 9 m. radius or a with a SGboard with 18 m radius, I wish you all the luck with it but it won't work very well. You just need a stable deck with about 12 or 13 m. radius and at least a deck of 18/19 cm width at least, and not too steep angles. The SWOARD isn't the only board you can do it with but it helps a lot and will be more fun. Take a Coiler, Prior or another brand and you also succeed. But the smaller the harder it will be. Also a short radius makes it impossible to do. Other brands are copying the SWOARD and that must have a reason. It's nothing wrong with that, it's just the opposite. So the sport will grow and people have more fun with it. Just my 2 cents.

Greets, Hans.

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I disagree with Jack who says that you can board every style with every board.

That's because... oh nevermind. You should see Ray link eurocarves on his 17cm wide Virus.

Just try doing some fully laid linked eurocarves with a slalomboard with a 8 or 9 m. radius

They will be smaller and/or slower, but it can be done.

or a with a SGboard with 18 m radius,

They will be larger and/or faster, but it can be done.

I wish you all the luck with it but it won't work very well. You just need a stable deck with about 12 or 13 m. radius and at least a deck of 18/19 cm width at least, and not too steep angles.

You forgot to say "and 0 degrees of cant/lift on both feet". You guys make me laugh. :rolleyes:

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Okay, Jack, may be I wasn't clear enough or you did read my reply too fast and overlooked my opinion. But what I meant to say is that it is not impossible to do some linked eurocarves with those decks mentioned above but it will be a lot harder to ride this style fluendly with those boards. That's also what you say in your post, isn't it. Nothing more nothing less.

For example I rode a VIRUS Psycho for some years which than had a width of 15,8 cm at the deck! (long before Ray rode the Virus decks). Some angles of 74/71 on it. Heellift 6 in the back and 4 in the front. I actually did fully laid eurocarves with it. But it was less fun and harder to do than with my SWOARD or other decks I have ridden and have now. It's only my opinion and not a statement. May be you have other experiences.

Greets, Hans.

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