veector Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Hey guys, I now have everything i need to start carving, boots, board and a set of race plates. Now i have one question, What would be an ideal angle to set my bindings at? I have been snowboarding for some time now and carving on that board is not a problem. If it matters the board is a burton FP 5.7 with a 27mm sidecut and a 200 mm waist. The boots are suzukas 30.5, 239mm sole. Thanks in advance Vic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Ultimately the correct angles will be the ones where you are most comfortable, as long as you don't have boot overhang. But to start, you want to set your angles so that your boot toes/heels are as close to the edge as possible without hanging over. Here are some articles on binding setup: http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/setup.cfm http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Alright, thats what i set it up to, minimal heel and tow drag, its riding at about 40 degrees, which will take some getting used to from my softboot 15 and -5 but I think I can manage it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 If you've got 40 degrees on a 20 cm waist with size 30.5 boots, I don't know how you did it without overhang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 40 degrees won't be enough to avoid overhang. You'll be able to get away with that while you are still just figuring out the board, boots, and new stance, but it will prevent you from carving even moderately hard. If you simply cannot bump the angles up higher yet, you can set up your plates on your freeride board and run lower angles. You can learn how to carve in hardboots on your freeride board. It's just that freeride boards tend to have silly-short sidecut radii, and are too soft to carve very aggressively. But they're a good way to get started on the greens and easy blues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdgang Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 I rock a speed 160 with a 200 waist but with 27 hoofs my lowest angles without overhang is around 45. so I agreed with jack and neil. but yeah you have to play around till you find whats the best. I started alpine last year and went though about 10 different stances until I found mine started 45/45 17 width flat both front and back and ended up 51/54 18 inch width 7 degree back cant...and now I have to go though it all over again since I have two new boards to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 ... one *can* jump directly from freeride to alpine angles without the "freeride board break-in". Not saying it works for everyone, but it worked for me. The "freeride board break-in" only caused me confusion and frustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Walters Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Read step 5. http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/setup.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Thanks for the info guys, the way its set up now i have a bit of overhand, maybe an inch and a bit over, and correction, the angles are 45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Thanks for the info guys, the way its set up now i have a bit of overhand, maybe an inch and a bit over, and correction, the angles are 45 You're thinking like a soft-booter there, an inch is a lot of overhang. As Jack said that will do to start but ultimately you want 0 overhang. What I do is support the board on a chair so that I take the sidecut out of it, and lean it over at a 90 degree angle with the boots in the bindings. I don't want the toe or heel to hit the chair at all, and I'm a little leary of the drink&drive lever on the back getting too close to the snow too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Ahhh alright, thanks man, il see what it comes to with 0 overhang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 I had some problems with higher angles last season as well. It was also my first season on plates. I could rip at 40's but when i went 50's and over things just got squirrelly. So what I did was increase my binding angles 3 degrees or so every time I went out so that the change was very minimal and I hardly noticed it. I worked my way up that way until I was riding 55deg+ angles. This method worked great for me. I wouldn't focus too much on overhang as these guys are stressing about. It's amazing how far up you have to tilt the board on edge to have issues with boot drag. As mentioned earlier tilt your board up on edge to see when the boot will be hitting the "ground" and you'll be surprised how far you can get it even with one inch of overhang. Forcing yourself out of a comfort zone to ride steep angles is just not the answer in my opinion. If you take small steps like I mentioned above you'll find yourself riding steep angles in no time without the harsh learning curve of jumping to 15/-5 to 55/55 in one leap of faith. In summary I would start at 40/35 ish and go up 3-5 degrees as you feel comfortable. This can be every run, every other run, every half day, every day, etc. Take it slow and work your way up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 only thing about testing for boot out at home is that youre not in snow. anything but the hardest east coast ice youll be digging in or sinking, effectively shortening the distance the boots must travel to hit. I completely disagree that boot out is unlikely or only happens with mucho board tilt. on my soft boot setup Ive always had about 1/2" hang, and would boot out pretty often, especially on my heels. I dont think I was getting extreme board tilt, either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 Those first few days on the carving stick can be rough. Hardboots at high angles are awkward and uncomfortable to start, and it's hard to "forget" softboot riding skills. Don't be afraid to ditch your pals and try the "norm" alone on a gentle slope. You WILL BE REWARDED. Especially on toe side. I still remember my first non-scaping slicing carve... Keep up your speed and DIG 'EM DEEP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 Thanks again guys, im heading to blue sometime next week (winter break) and im gonna bring a screw driver with me and gradually increase the angles as ther day progresses. Hopefully it'll work and il be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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