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17 Year Burton Rider Needs Assistance


nworswick

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OK. I apologize in advance if this sounds like a completely naive question. Quite frankly I'm not terribly "handy" when it comes to setting up my gear, and I searched the board and was unable to find a concrete answer.

I have ridden Burton equipment since '89 and nothing else (I can see some of you rolling your eyes!) I am looking to add to my quiver (Factory Primes & Speeds) and want to purchase an all-mountain board that works a bit better in powder and the choppy stuff; something akin to the Prior 4WD or the Donek Axis.

My question is this: Assuming I want to transfer a pair of my Race Plates to the new non-Burton board, what additional equipment, if any, do I need? Do I need to purchase a new center-disk to accomodate the bindings? What's the genral rule here?

Also, any insight you want to give me on Axis vs. 4WD or other similar boards would be welcome...

Many Thanks,

-Nick

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throw them out, if you did thats okay the disks from the current burton bindings will work with any of the burton plates made after 1995.

the four hole center peice for the burton cants can be real hard to find though, if you have lost the ones that came with your bindings.

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As far as the differences go between the Axis and the 4X4, I don't think any of us can state it more authoritatively than Sean, Mr. Donek hisself: see here. Based on what he said, if you've already got race boards for the groomed you might lean toward the Prior.

If your race plates are pre-95, you'll have a hell of a time finding 4X4 disks to fit, Burton changed the teeth so the new disks don't fit the old bindings. Maybe consider a more modern binding, something tells me that around this site you should be able to find something suitable.

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Guest Randy S.

I think I saw one of those center disks for the Burton cant in my Box 'o Binding Crap the other day. I didn't check to see how many holes, but I'd be happy to get rid of it if you need it. Don't know if I have any Burton disks, but I may have those rubber bumpers.

Donek vs. Prior? Don't think you can go wrong either way.

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Thanks for the input guys. Looks like I need to dig up some 4-hole discs or upgrade to some Bomber TD2s! Unfortunately I'm not riding as much as I used to, so the prospect of dropping another chunk of change on new bindings in addition to the new board is less than appealing (particularly since I have 3 perfectly good pairs of raceplates ready to go.)

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While plastic 4-hole disks may be cheap and plentiful, the aluminum ones are worth the extra time and expense of obtaining, especially for plate bindings. Another option, if you cant or lift your bindings, is to find the Universal Cant/Lifts. these are 2 interlocking black plastic disks, circular when viewed from above and wedge-shaped when viewed from the side. they stacked one on top of the other to give various combinations of lift and/or cant. The binding attached to the board via what was essentially a ball-and-socket joint with mounting plates on either side that were both 3 and 4 hole compatible. That is to say, you could mount 3D bindings on 4x4 inserts, and vice versa.

The disks have zero overhang on decks 19 cm and wider; the two disks have about a degree of rotational play in them, so you might feel some clicking underfoot, but I've never noticed any loosening of the screws between binding, disk, and deck.

Hope this helps.

Oh, and if you want to stay true to the big B, keep an eye out for boards with names like E Deck, E Wire, and Coil. AM decks built for plates and carving, and can be found pretty cheap, expecially at ski swaps. Think of them as the poor man's Axis.

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