barryj Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Well, post ankle surgery in Nov. my season has barely started and in trying to get my carving groove back I've been out maybe 5 times in mostly pow or loose groom conditions on my Moss PQ60 and old Black Track 425's with a softer liner and softer tongue using the OEM 5 position lean mechanism in walk mode...which has worked well. I currently can last about 6-7 laps/runs before my ankle is done for the day.....which is an improvement from where I started! I think I will try the other walk mode option, limited 3-5 "Turned Knob" position tomorrow night with the new pow were expecting! Anyway.....so in trying to work my way back up to my hard charging carving decks (Coiler Angrry, MK Mutant) yesterday I took my everyday work board AM Swoard Dual 168 out on the groomers with the oem 5 position lean mechanism on my front boot locked 1 forward from mechanism center mark 3, aka position 2 and the rear boot locked 1 back from the center 3 mark, aka position 4......this worked very well and I felt I was getting some of my carving groove back. I'm running the newer edition green/orange track 425's with TD3 SW SI's with 3 toe/6 heel lift/disks. So if your running Track boots with the oem 5 position lean mechanism wondering what settings you are using for carving on the groom with your carving decks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRrider Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 hahaha. I just removed the OEM Deeluxe forward lean device and installed BTS (blue front; yellow rear). Will give the new kit it's maiden voyage tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 I've also gone back to the 5-position buckle from the BTS on my 425 Pros. I lock the front boot as upright as possible and leave the back boot with the knob turned sideways so, limited backward movement and free forward. I may go back to BTS on the rear boot but I really like the locked upright front. Running 57/54 on a Proteus and a Madd. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladia Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Barry, that is a minimum. With my new physical limitation I am fighting with everything. I need post separate topic and pick up hopefully some brains. I am now done after lunch. It will take probably rest of season to get somehow closer to normal and you have much better chance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 (edited) 4 on both boots for me. I use SG bindings and use the default lift kits on both front/rear (standard toe/heel lifts). I don't need much. I assume it's like 3 degrees or so of lift. Edited February 26 by Odd Job 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 4 hours ago, Jonny said: I lock the front boot as upright as possible J, Can you clarify "as Upright as possible" From what I see and my experience locked dead Vertical would be position 3. What position # on the Lean mechanism are we talking about? Upright Vertical? Max Upright past vert?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 1 hour ago, Odd Job said: 4 on both boots for me Hey OJ I've been on the AIL sideline since last April and just now starting my season and trying to get my head and body back in the Carving game and having to remember and redial my settings from last season.... but for Hard Charging Carving wouldn't you want the OEM Lean Mechanism settings to be opposite between front boot and back boot? I'm regular, left ft. forward and I thought I read somewhere here..... front boot locked with more forward lean at #2 setting will make Heel side initiation easier/quicker....which seems to help/work imo. My rear boot is opposite setting at #4 setting which puts way more pressure on my shin/tongue of the boots to make toe sides more effective/efficient......seems to work imo. Of course being me I could have it completely backwards!........... What say the Sages?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 (edited) Did you get it backwards with front foot at 2 and rear foot at 4? (5 is most upright). You meant 4 front foot and 2 rear, right? I'm using the toe/heel lifts of the bindings to do it for me, so I just use same on both. I also don't really bend my knees just to get lower for lowness sakes. Getting low to your board doesn't equate to edge grip. Edited February 26 by Odd Job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 4 minutes ago, Odd Job said: backwards with front foot at 2 and rear foot at 4? Ha! Backwards maybe! ...but that's what I'm running, 2 front and 4 rear. My logic and experience with front boot setting at 2, I have increased my forward lean so I need less movement and less pressure to initiate and a hold heel side carve.. Same but opposite with rear boot set at #4 for Toe side carves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 10 hours ago, barryj said: J, Can you clarify "as Upright as possible" From what I see and my experience locked dead Vertical would be position 3. What position # on the Lean mechanism are we talking about? Upright Vertical? Max Upright past vert?? Don't have my boots here (stuck in Florida for the rest of the winter) but iirc I open the latch, click into my bindings and sit back all the way, then close the latch. I think that's the 5th position but can't be sure. It's definitely not past vertical but still has a little forward lean if my bindings were flat. With some toe lift and inward cant it's pretty close to straight up and down I guess. Gives me more positive engagement onto toeside and smoother but less dynamic transition to heelside which is ok since my heelside turn is somewhat stronger anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted March 11 Author Report Share Posted March 11 Sean sent me a photo of his forward lean settings on his Deeluxe Track 325 boots he rides with his MK. He's goofy, so #4 setting on his front boot and #5 on his rear boot, so opposite of me as Regular but I'm going to try 4/4 next time out on my 425's. When the lean mechanism is set to #5 position on my 425's it creates a huge gap between the liner and the Boot cuff....even with my foot in the boot! Also when in position #5 the top two buckles won't/can't reach the tooth plates!...... so how do you buckle them without getting new/longer upper boot straps?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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