Anyone have a source for Gecko hex nuts?

[bigwavedave]

The closest thing I find is a male-female hex stand-off from McMaster-Carr, but it doesn't have the short round threaded section that comes up through the plate.

https://www.mcmaster.com/standoffs/for-adapting~gender/shape~round/shape~hex/system-of-measurement~metric/metric-to-metric-male-female-hex-thread-adapters/thread-size~m6/material~stainless-steel/

[Kneel]

Mini lathe. That's probably the correct stock too, but the female and plate receiving end. at least the last 5mm or so, was probably done on a lathe.  

Find something with a closer stack height, a silicon cushioning washer to fill the ID/OD space between the carbon, fasten the binding with and M6 stainless hex screw with washer and call it a day.

Or, call Frank.  Isn't the Virus rip-off...er I mean plate almost identical?

[Kneel]

Actually, just looking at it, that 4x4 isolator block looks like a much better solution...

[bigwavedave]

Yea, like the rubber block under the center. Still looks like he's using the same type of male-female hex connector that protrudes into the hole in the plate. Was hoping it was an off-the-shelf item 'cause I misplaced my mini lathe (it's so small). 

Frank's look nice, but they are pricey and I think I want more flex, like 4mm. So I was considering making my own copying the Geckos to start and probably add that rubber pad under the center, as that looks like a good idea. The 4mm carbon plate and bumpers are easy enough to source.

Who was it that made their own similar version? slapos? pokis? Whoever it was mounted the carbon plate differently, but couldn't find that thread. If only@lonbordin could point to the thread i seek using his magic searching skills. 

 

[lonbordin]

Lol it was @pokkis We just had a discussion about his homemade plates.

He said to me, "I use Apex extenders, have few of them. But earlier used 10mmx20mm alu profile until got extra extenders. Four of them is needed." 

Queue it's a small world after all. 

[pokkis]

If you need them for Gecko plates then it is harder call. But if you plan make your own then you can have them without that small extra neck. Then you just need to drill only 6mm holes for plate, not 8mm like for original Gecko design.

I have used flat ones with 6mm holes and also 10x25 Alu bars with 6mm holes to put them on board and M6 threads to tighten plates to bars. Both work fine. Bars are easier due there are no sharp edges when plates are removed and with proper design of hole/thread placement you get more stance adjustment.

BTW i'm back in these small "plates" on one of my boards, rest have full plate. Just for fun

[bigwavedave]

btw I ordered a set of Virus Isolator plates with extra hardware and bumpers.

The hex mounting nuts are virtually the same as Gecko Carves and should be interchangable. The bumpers are the same 1cm height and have about the same hardness as soft Gecko bumpers (compared by squeezing in pliers) and they're definitely softer than the red (hard) Gecko bumpers.

The Carbon Isolator plates are the same 5mm thickness as Geckos. There is a hard plastic piece with 4 holes that fit over the hex nuts and under the plates. 

I only took a few runs and they felt virtually the same as Geckos.

I'm still planning to make a modified design to go on my XC. Similar to a Gecko Stealth with 3 bumpers per side.

I've been using td3sw with the BP base for a small circular footprint. In comparison, the larger footprint of F2's seems to restrict the flex enough to make the ride feel stiffer.