piusthedrcarve Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Help. What's the spec. for the screw shown in below picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) 70mm x 6mm, although 75mm length also works. Be sure whichever replacement bolt you use is Fully Threaded (1.00 Pitch on threads, btw), and uses an Allen-head or PZ-3 driver, NOT a Ph-2, as that'll strip out quickly. This was a POZI-DRIVE head bolt, and using a PHILLIPS HEAD Screwdriver helped deform the bolt head Get it in a hardened Stainless Steel if possible. When removing it, try a thinned 10mm fixed-size 10mm open-end wrench. . If the nut doesn't release 'nicely', you may be looking at 'peck drilling' the head off, which will take awhile. Try McMaster-Carr for bolts, they usually have good selection and quality. Edited February 14, 2017 by Eric Brammer aka PSR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 As stated the original was a Pozidrive #3. I couldn't find that in the hardware specialty store but got something like this and it fits like a glove....zero slop http://www.ebay.com/itm/152411628286?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Thanks Eric and Renzo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 To get a PZ-3 bit to fit, one trick is to 'punch' the bit bit into the bolthead, BUT, it's a 'last ditch' move, before trying vise-grip needle-nosed pliers, or drilling the head off. Use a 'dead=shot' hammer, a new PZ-3, with the binding well secured (not rotating, clamped), and 'punch' the PZ in about 3-4 times, then check the imprint to see that it's clearly shiny with sharp indents. It then 'might' grip enough to uncork that pup. RJ, nice graphic, Thanks! Note the sharp angles on the PZ, versus the rounded corners of a Phillips. The Pozi has those extra 'wedges' in it to improve torque transfer. When looking at a Pozi head on a bolt/screw, note the four diagonal 'flash marks' that form an eight-point dual cross; that the hint that your Dakine driver needs an extra bit in the handle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Sorry, but for this screw I use PH3, not PZ3. I think thet all F2 screws are PH3...... or am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terekhov Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 1 hour ago, H2O said: I think thet all F2 screws are PH3...... or am I wrong? yes, you're wrong. screws on proflex/f2 bindings is PZ3 and never was any PH*. and functionally for snow usage pozi is a lot better than philips or hex! if you use quality pz3 bit - you will (almost:) never see stripped bolts, even if you ever need to torque them a lot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 My PH3 driver seems to work well in that screw in my Titanflex toe piece. I've never hear of PZ3 before but I will have to find a one and try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 OK, Phillips screws are ROUNDED in the indent, and only have the 4 slots in the bolt head. Pozi-Drives are also in the cruciform shape, but have Cut Angles, AND a Square Flange in the center set at 45* to the Cruciform, creating many sharp facets in which the bit and head make contact. This adds to the mechanical 'traction' under twist, thus the screws can be set to a higher torque of tightness. Using a Phillips driver in a Pozi head is possible, and way too easy to do, BUT it's The Wrong Thing to Do, as the Phillips will slop around, and then you've got what you see in the picture of that F-2 binding; a stripped out bolt head. BTW, it's tough to get a pozi bit into a Phillips head, as the extra square flange indent is missing in the Phillips cruciform. Using the right tool for the job here is more important than a cursory glance would denote, but if you like fuzzy, stripped out bolt heads, by all means, use a Phillips on a Pozi bolt head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, 1xsculler said: My PH3 driver seems to work well in that screw in my Titanflex toe piece. I've never hear of PZ3 before but I will have to find a one and try it out. Me too. During about 25 years of snowboard I 've never used PZ3 but only PH3 drivers. Actually again. May be I haven't ever had problems also using PH3 driver with PZ3 screws? Edited February 13, 2017 by H2O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I found a PZ3 in my tool box and it does seem to fit that screw a little better than a PH3. You learn something every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terekhov Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 7 hours ago, H2O said: May be I haven't ever had problems also using PH3 driver with PZ3 screws? you surely can read proflex manuals to find out which driver to use, but why bother to read if we are only in it for the ride? :) ph3 driver WILL strip (after some time) bolts made for pz3. I have a bunch of bolts which was used with ph3, and a smaller bunch which was used with pz3 only. difference is clear. if you didn't used to see problem as problem - that's never be a problem, for sure ;) but if you use PZ3 driver for PZ3 screws in next 25yrs - you will clearly see with nakid eyes the outlook of that problem. stripped bolt in original post of that topic IS a problem as it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I agree!!! Now I've seen and I'll go to PZ3! .... you never stop learning .... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted February 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Okay. waiting for the POZI bits. Ordered and received the M6 x 70 mm (1 mm pitch) SS Screw from MacMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92000a447/=16cydzp. Original screw is 63-4 mm in length. I just cut the end 5 mm short and it fits nicely. Thanks Eric!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 2 minutes ago, piusthedrcarve said: Okay. waiting for the POZI bits. Ordered and received the M6 x 70 mm (1 mm pitch) SS Screw from MacMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92000a447/=16cydzp. Original screw is 63-4 mm in length. I just cut the end 5 mm short and it fits nicely. Thanks Eric!. Looks good!...ok your new screw is a regular Phillips...you wont be needing the Pozi drive for that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted February 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 1 minute ago, rjnakata said: Looks good!...ok your new screw is a regular Phillips...you wont be needing the Pozi drive for that one! I know. But I have 3 sets of F2 bindings with original screws :) Thanks Renzo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 On 2/13/2017 at 6:59 AM, Eric Brammer aka PSR said: To get a PZ-3 bit to fit, one trick is to 'punch' the bit bit into the bolthead, BUT, it's a 'last ditch' move, before trying vise-grip needle-nosed pliers, or drilling the head off. Use a 'dead=shot' hammer, a new PZ-3, with the binding well secured (not rotating, clamped), and 'punch' the PZ in about 3-4 times, then check the imprint to see that it's clearly shiny with sharp indents. It then 'might' grip enough to uncork that pup. RJ, nice graphic, Thanks! Note the sharp angles on the PZ, versus the rounded corners of a Phillips. The Pozi has those extra 'wedges' in it to improve torque transfer. When looking at a Pozi head on a bolt/screw, note the four diagonal 'flash marks' that form an eight-point dual cross; that the hint that your Dakine driver needs an extra bit in the handle! I thought all of the Dakine tools had a PZ3? I've got the fidget with me all of the time and it is a lifesaver with the F2 Race Ti bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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