barryj Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Just curious - For us 200+ lb carvers using BTS what color spring are you riding? Are you riding split colors or different colors on front than back? I am on Blues front/back....but thinking of trying red on the front boot to stiffen up the flex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelc Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 220lbs. 100kg in real money. Riding the stiffest springs, with which I am totally happy. I have the stiffest elastomers on step-in sidewinder TD3's as well and I may play with some softer items at some point. Lots to fix with my riding first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 yup, used to use reds of varying lengths to adjust the lean angle rather than compressing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hey Keiian, Yep - I also grinded down my shorter blue spring on my front boot to adjust the lean ....been thinking I am still compressing it ...so want to try a shorter red spring on the front boot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Friend of mine who is very aggressive rider (with weight) rides one step stiffer springs than red one, in all springs. Lengths same as on standard ones. When i used BTS, i had double length top spring and now lower one, due i liked long travel and it was very comfy to have boots up right on lift where you anyway spend most of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I was recommended reds (220 lbs) Just finished installing them. Will let you know how it goes :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Erazz Thanks for the info and the photo. You going to Loveland this weekend to give them a go?? I wish I had a set of reds to ride and compare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calle Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Just be aware that shortening a spring will make it stiffer and a longer spring of the same kind will be softer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Yeah Callie I put my front foot lower Blue spring on the grinding wheel to shorten it to get the angle and stiffness I wanted.......still think I overflex the boot/bts...which is why I just ordered some red springs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Erazz Thanks for the info and the photo. You going to Loveland this weekend to give them a go?? I wish I had a set of reds to ride and compare! Loveland is closed for the season :( Going to A-Basin to check out the Donek End of Season BBQ party. (DEOSBBQP) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Hey Jim- Hmm...that's an interesting point about the softer setup for pow..................I've been wanting an excuse for another set of boots! Leave my blues on the old boots for pow and put stiffer reds on new boots for EC days - I like it!! Also using the springs mixed like you suggest would seem to be a step between using all blues and all reds - right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruincounselor Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Red on top, blue on the bottom - 242-212 lb. (Yes I'm down 30lb this year). I tried all blues and all reds and didn't like either. This works for me and I see I'm not alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Hey Bruin - Great! I got reds on the way!! I'll try reds on top at Mammoth 20/21 weekend Bruin when you changd out the top springs how did you know how tight/far to crank down that retaining nut?? I see the bottom sprin/nut helps me adjust my cant angle which I have marked on the boot to match.....but when you changed out the top springs how did you know how tight/far to crank down that retaining nut?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruincounselor Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Hey Bruin - Great! I got reds on the way!! I'll try reds on top at Mammoth 20/21 weekend Bruin when you changd out the top springs how did you know how tight/far to crank down that retaining nut?? I see the bottom sprin/nut helps me adjust my cant angle which I have marked on the boot to match.....but when you changed out the top springs how did you know how tight/far to crank down that retaining nut?? Experiment a bit. Sadly you will have to go for a ride. Start with your best guess, keep in mind that the top nut will put force on both top AND bottom springs. It's easy to make tension adjustments on the hill with your wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megtrimix Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 Barryj, Lence and I we will be up in mammoth from the 20th. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 I use blue on the rear boot. This config. is similar to having little movement on the front boot (shown) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Bryan, thanks for the photo - that looks like the same setup that Jim uses. How much do you weigh? Jim - Do you change out springs for that "softer tune" for pow days?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Hey Barry. No, I have a different set of boots that I CAN use but lately I have not. In years past when I was doing 100+ days per year I would have three pair of boots set up. Stiff for chalky , push as hard as you want days and longboards. Medium, my go to everyday boots such as pictured above, Soft for powder and BC. Typically it would map out like this AF700 with red and stiff pro top strap. AF600, like above and SB314 for pow. Last season I was hitting 250lbs , this season 210-215lbs. Worth noting that putting super stiff springs on a soft shell just distorts the shell , however you can put soft springs and a stiff boot to increase its use range. in addition, pulling the BTS in and out allot will eventually lead to the pins NOT staying put. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Hey Bryan Are you saying Track 700 is too soft a boot/shell for red springs??? Good point about changing out BTS to much - pin failure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Well, wish I had more to offer but I barely noticed the difference. Which is not bad! I didn't want to soften up my boot. I wanted very little flex and still have very little flex. Conditions were very soft so that could have been a factor. I did notice a smoother toe turn and hold. The toe side was definitely more comfortable. I'm still having issues with heel side and the soft, rutty conditions did not help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Hey Bryan Are you saying Track 700 is too soft a boot/shell for red springs??? Good point about changing out BTS to much - pin failure! No, more like the older SB 314 perhaps. Keeping in mind that they are covering a range determined in part by how far they are run down. Example the red left as wide or as least compressed might be similar to a blue compressed down 3/4 of it's range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Well, wish I had more to offer but I barely noticed the difference. Which is not bad! I didn't want to soften up my boot. I wanted very little flex and still have very little flex. Conditions were very soft so that could have been a factor. I did notice a smoother toe turn and hold. The toe side was definitely more comfortable. I'm still having issues with heel side and the soft, rutty conditions did not help. Sounds like you did better than I the first try !! Keep in mind that after riding with solid adjusters like the 2 or 5 position ANY flex is MORE flex. First time I used the BTS I had blue springs about a third compressed. It was WAY too soft for my riding style or learned techniques. It took a few tuning sessions but I now like that there is just a bit more "Shock" flex that helps to remove some jarring yet when I apply pressure it responds as I expect. It may help to note I came from early days of riding ski boots on alpine boards (very stiff) I don't recommend that and completely respect and understand those that get low with very soft set ups and their methods are valid and very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Please also note that BOTH springs have compression from a Center, adjusted by the tensioners above/below that center. Why does this matter? Well, two things. The springs are of different lengths, so they DO NOT interact on a similar plane-of-motion, nor do they (at times) co-resist input tensions, so SLOP is very possible as you become closer to being neutral in toe-heel balance. Also note that the tongue/shell Flex into toeside turns, where in heelside turns, the spring compresses against a fairly rigid boot spine, yet That spring is the shorter one! In terms of skeletal input, the greater flex is to the toeside, so it does deserve the flex range differential, and 'slop' that direction is easier to compensate for. However, note that the heelside is 'bones-over-bones', and thus more direct, it needs a bit of compliance, but usually at a 'stiffer' spring rate, even if the stiffer rate means a lot less compression range. Thus, it's best the have your 'neutral' position be a bit 'up' in regards to center, and then tweak the springs, top-first, then lower, accordingly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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