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Solomon SX-01 Equipe carving set-up


1xsculler

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https://youtu.be/ruusaTnF1Zo

 

Title should read SX-91

 

Thank you to all who have indulged my myriad topics and posts about boots, especially Beckman who may have answered my quandry best.

 

I became hooked on carving after watching the VHS video in the early 2000s, "Pure Carve", if my memory serves.  I tried every Burton boot, i.e. Fires, Reactors, Furnaces, etc., but never found any of them to work any better than my Solomon SX-91 Equipes which were, and are, my favorite ski boots and I've tried a lot of them in the interim too.  I actually got so I could link some pure carve trenches during a couple of days when the conditions were just right.  In 2005, for reasons I can't remember, I quite carving and went back to skiing.  Now I want to learn to carve again and I want as few hindrances as possible so I am, once again, trying to determine IF hard snowboard boots will speed my learning.

 

Please take a look at this youtube video and critique my set-up.  I have numerous pairs of new and used boots coming and the ones that are the wrong size or, otherwise, don't seem like they'll help me will be returned or re-sold.

 

I will also be ordering a 170 to 175 custom Coiler and F2 stepins from Bruce for next season.correct for my 6' 2" 150 pound body.

 

At 72 I have no time to waste in getting the carve back.

Edited by 1xsculler
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All other things aside (fit, size, heel lift, ramp angle, what-have-you), one question: In the linked video, are you flexing the boots as far forward as they will go?

 

If yes, the boots offer far less fore-aft flexibility than I want in a snowboard boot. Just what I would have expected from my experiences with 90s rear-entry ski boots.

 

Which is not to say the amount of flex the SX91 offers cannot work for some riders. But personally, I would always take a boot that offers more range of movement lengthwise.

 

Apart from that, things look all right, I guess. Binding setup has always been very much trial and error for me. If it works, it works. I would probably try a steeper angle in front, but that is just me.

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Now I want to learn to carve again and I want as few hindrances as possible so I am, once again, trying to determine IF hard snowboard boots will speed my learning.

 

 

I will also be ordering a 170 to 175 custom Coiler and F2 stepins from Bruce for next season

 

 

Extending the metaphor from my previous response, if you can't get the oars in and out of the water on time, why are you messing with your pitch, spread, layback, and collars?

 

As in sculling, timing, accuracy, and economy of movement make all the difference in alpine snowboarding. At least if you want to do it well, and for a long time.

 

If you really want to get better faster, shoot some meaningful video of your riding, and either post it for public critique, or if you prefer, send me the link.

I'm guessing you've got too much backsplash, and are probably rushing the slide as well.

 

You have a decent board,  and quality adjustable grippers.

Granted, those Salomon wouldn't be my choice, but you have more than enough range of movement there to work the board. That you have no choice but to work the sole of the foot rather than the shell itself might be an advantage in the short run.

 

I've seen plenty of people arc respectable turns on poorly fit rental ski boots.

 

And I assure you, even a dung beetle would back away from those.

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Corey_Dyke,

 

It sounds like most would agree that the SX-91s don't offer enough forward flex as they are maxxed out in the video.  Are they hindering me?  I'm too much of a novice to know but I did have a break-out day today at Crystal Mt., WA, on my Ultra Prime 69, Burton plates, flat on the front and a 6* lift/cant wedge on the rear.  I actually began to get the feel of linked, no-skid carves as I remember from fifteen years ago when I wasn't very good either.  But I now now there's hope.

 

Thanks for all of the comments.

 

Beckman,  Will I see you in Boston this October for the HOCR?

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I've watched this thread{s} unfold, and I am convinced now that the Burton/Head boots just didn't fit Your Foot, likely at the heel, where they're a tad wide. So, first, find a bootfitter, and preferably one who understands Intuition Liners [known also as Thermo-fit Liners], and has experience in footbeds that are not Only made with Cork (cork is nifty, but 'crunches' under high pressure, where-in, with Boarding, the toe-box goes to hell).I would recommend something along the lines of a Peterson footbed. You are needing a good fit, and while 'pure' snowboard shells are a choice-limited item, there are many Mountaineering (I mentioned them before as "Coaches" boot; DIN, but with Vibram Soles) shells, but they are hard-to-find.

 

With Snowboard hardshells, you can likely exclude Head/Burton at this point. UPZ is a possibility, but fits wide at the toebox, though snug at the rear, in width. Raichle/Dee-Luxe would probably work best, though, heel-hold would be my worry. Of course, the big "if" is getting your foot into the right boot! So, demo whatever you can find, or at least plug your feet into some to feel it out.

 

Ask the bootfitters about TF liners, too. Be also checking into footbeds as you go. One thing to avoid, though, in molding up TF liners, is have too little toe-space. Heel-hold, and shin comfort are the key selling points, but be sure the toes have wiggle-room (TF's are re-moldable, so, you've got 3-4 chances at perfection). If a "pure" snowboard shell of mondo 27 or 28 works, be sure to also look into the 'spring kits' on the forward lean. This isn't 'mandatory', as the 5-position lean [drink+drive lever] lean usually fitted is often enough, but a spring kit would let your ankles flex 'just enough' to reduce fatigue.

 

Just so you know where I'm from, kinda; Been riding since '78, using hardboots since '91 (often-ish,that is), teaching since '88, bootfitting from '92 thru '06, and, well, been around awhile...

 

You're on the right path here, you just need a reasonable boot-fit, and then a few days with Beckmann on snow!

Edited by Eric Brammer aka PSR
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Beckman,  Will I see you in Boston this October for the HOCR?

Highly unlikely. 

While I remain in contact with my old boat club, I have not been on the water since the late 80's.

The Charles might have been my last regatta.

Have found that XC skate is a more than suitable substitute, and better suited to my frame.

 

BTW, when I was new to sculling, one of the club members had a Van Dusen. Story was he inherited it from his late father, who drowned out on Great Bay, ostensibly while rowing.

He was pretty fast, but sometimes it seemed he was just one bow-ball ahead of his demons.

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Interesting.  I have three mid-eighties Van Dusens and after owning and competing in most every other brand, new and used, during my eleven year sculling career my old V.D.s are still my boats of choice.

 

Who did you row for, college and later?

 

Now, if I can only get my carve down while I, hopefully, have a few years left to enjoy it.

 

Eighty-six year old Dick Kendall, and multi-time HOCR winner, is my sculling role model and Dick Spector, who was carving at eighty-six.5 at Buttermilk, is my carving role model. If you haven't read the BOL topic on Spector search for it or maybe I can figure out how to send it to you.

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Who did you row for, college and later?

 

Now, if I can only get my carve down while I, hopefully, have a few years left to enjoy it.

 

Eighty-six year old Dick Kendall, and multi-time HOCR winner, is my sculling role model and Dick Spector, who was carving at eighty-six.5 at Buttermilk, is my carving role model. If you haven't read the BOL topic on Spector search for it or maybe I can figure out how to send it to you.

 

Have seen the thread on Spector, read up on Kendall. "Benign form of insanity" indeed.

 

As with sculling, if you want to get good at carving, you need to be methodical, and pay attention to many details. It's a conversation between you, the board, and the surface, and it pays to be a good listener, rather than a bully.

A mature athlete hasn't the luxury of crashing and bouncing their way toward proficiency.

Keep in mind that finesse needs come before power, and that technique is intertwined with equipment selection and configuration.

 

I rowed through my high school years with the Durham Boat Club, the de facto product test division of the Durham Boat Co. (One of their first carbon oarlock  molds was pulled directly off a commercial soup ladle...)

Rowed maybe two seasons in college, but had to prioritize academics. That, and I had a few philosophical 'differences' with the coach on how to make a boat faster.  

Go figure...

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