Dkskioh Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I am new to hardbooting and had to mount my gear on a Sims All Mountain 70. New carving board is in the budget for next year!! For now I have to ride this. It is a 167cm with 143 of running area. Board flex is a 6. Waist is 20.5 and I'm mounted in the center of the mounting pattern. Running 55 front 53 rear with 3 degrees of cant/lift front and rear. Stance is 20.5, I'm 6' 4". I posted another post on having trouble with my heal side carves, (felt like I was too far forward on the board, and it seemed to dive in too quick heal side then break loose. Very hard to establish the carve.) My question is, do i need to use some setback with a soft board to make it carve better? It feels like I do. I will post a short video clip shortly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Is the waist on that thing really only 20.5? I would have thought more like 25, in which case you are underhanging quite a bit with those angles. You might want a little more splay too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Most freestyle/freeride boards have very tight sidecuts. Try slowing down a lot and trying the same turn. You can generate a lot of force and edge angle with hardboots, which is likely overwhelming the board at your 'normal' speeds. I was amazed how slow my soft board wanted to carve. If I went too fast, it felt like it was constantly going through a carve-release-carve-release cycle. This was with soft boots with just a Raichle tongue inserted into them to stiffen them a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markbvt Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Looks like you accidentally listed your stance width as the waist width. Like Neil says, it's probably more like a 25cm waist. A few weeks ago I rode my Burton Triumph 73, a similar all-mountain freeriding board, because it had snowed overnight and conditions were soft. I used 45/42 angles (normally ride a skinny race board with 60 degree angles). It did fine in the soft stuff, but didn't want to carve very well on hardpack. Part of it was what Corey is talking about -- between the tight sidecut radius and the relatively soft flex, the thing just wants to carve really small turns. As Neil suggests, try lowering your stance angles a bit so your toes and heels are on the board edges. --mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkskioh Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Mark you are right! I fat fingered the waist measurement it is 25cm. I was riding at 50/46 but steepened the angles to help square up my hips! Corey to your point I was experiencing the "carve/release" experience. I also move my stance back slightly to slow turn initiation a bit. I will see how that works! --Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExcelsiorTheFathead Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Unless you have huge feet, which you might, I think angles like 55/53 will result in bad underhang on a 25cm board. With your current setup, how far inside the edges are your boots? To my mind, the only thing that matters when setting angles on such a setup is getting the heels and toes pretty much aligned close with the edges. If it was me and my MP26 boots, I would probably be at 40/35 on that board. But if I was 6'4" like you, I might feel like I had enough leverage to force the earth out of orbit. I started hardbooting in a similar way. I put plates on my softboot board until I felt good about switching to a 4WD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailman Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yesterday I mount a x-bone binding on my old all mountain Salomon 450 163 to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkskioh Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 My Boots are MD29 and you are right I have some underhang. I've gone back to my original 50/46 which gets me pretty close to the edge. I found when I rode my original set up if I moved my weight back a bit the heal side turns hooked up better. I'm trying a bit of setback and working on squaring up a bit more and hoping that helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExcelsiorTheFathead Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I wouldn't be too concerned with squaring your hips to the front of the board. Certainly, I wouldn't go to steeper angles than the board will accomodate just to be facing more forward. Underhang is bad and seriously limits your ability to pressure the edges. The carving form will look a little different from people riding 60 degree angles, but much fun can be had. As has been mentioned, go slower and work up from easy green runs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkskioh Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 GREAT video! thanks for the tip! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I always ride in hard boots, also soft boot boards like Jones Hovercraft (with light AT boots for free riding) or F2 eliminator and Swoard Dual everywhere (also for carving). I like to ride with a flat bindings set up and angles similar to 30/40 or 15/30 on 26 waist boards. Once I rode with a pureboarding setup on PB boards or soft boot boards. Stop to narrow boards ! ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff33 Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 This carving (in this video) is not nice because none rotation of body !!! The best technic carving is team Sword (Softboot and Hardboot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 This carving (in this video) is not nice because none rotation of body !!! The best technic carving is team Sword (Softboot and Hardboot) I agree !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 This carving (in this video) is not nice because none rotation of body !!! The best technic carving is team Sword (Softboot and Hardboot)You got to be kidding? Not nice because of no rotation? Do they carve very clean lines? Variable turn shapes? Dynamic? Effortless mix of tricks and carving? Yes to all - that's more then nice, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff33 Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 No, really, no. Bad carving... Carving with rotation is "The Carving" :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 No, really, no. Bad carving... Carving with rotation is "The Carving" :) Mmmmmhhhh.....carving is carving.....than, also for me rotation+push/pull are the best way of riding.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExcelsiorTheFathead Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 No, really, no. Bad carving... Carving with rotation is "The Carving" :) Ok, but if you guys start telling me which kind of pizza is best, we're going to have a real problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 No, really, no. Bad carving... Carving with rotation is "The Carving" That's either elitist B.S. or you have a different definition of 'carving' than most here. If you think that's not carving because they're not swinging their shoulders/hips/core exactly the way you want, then I strongly disagree. These riders are ripping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Ok, but if you guys start telling me which kind of pizza is best, we're going to have a real problem. You are not qualified to judge The Pizza. It is pepperoni that is best. Only pepperoni pizza is The Pizza. Without pepperoni, it is just flattened bread with smeary orangeness and white stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff33 Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Mmmmmhhhh.....carving is carving.....than, also for me rotation+push/pull are the best way of riding.... Yes, yes, rotation + push/pull is the most beautiful carving ! ;):):) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 You are not qualified to judge The Pizza. It is pepperoni that is best. Only pepperoni pizza is The Pizza. Without pepperoni, it is just flattened bread with smeary orangeness and white stuff.Nooooooo, pepperoni pizza is not an original pizza!When you come to Italy, I will invite you to eat a real one. Then you will not eat pepperoni pizza anymore! See you guys soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I am new to hardbooting and had to mount my gear on a Sims All Mountain 70. New carving board is in the budget for next year!! For now I have to ride this. It is a 167cm with 143 of running area. Board flex is a 6. Waist is 20.5 and I'm mounted in the center of the mounting pattern. Running 55 front 53 rear with 3 degrees of cant/lift front and rear. Stance is 20.5, I'm 6' 4". I posted another post on having trouble with my heal side carves, (felt like I was too far forward on the board, and it seemed to dive in too quick heal side then break loose. Very hard to establish the carve.) My question is, do i need to use some setback with a soft board to make it carve better? It feels like I do. I will post a short video clip shortly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Dk, I would mark the start and stop of the running length , divide that in half , mark the "Center" of the sidecut and perhaps move rear of center by 1/4 to 1/2" , use that point as the center of your binding center. Keep in mind that board is going to turn like a very short alpine board with a tight SCR. This is good for keeping your speed in check when pure carving , a waist of 20.5cm is not abnormal for modern carving boards. I think the sooner you can get on a true alpine board the better. Picking up an older used alpine board does not need to be expensive. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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