ablapia Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I am on the verge of trying carving, though I am fairy new even to soft boots snowboarding. I have seen many options for boots and bindings. I am not sure where to start and they are all compatible each other. any input appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Nearly all boots and bindings are compatible. Step-in bindings will require step-in heels for the boots and not all boots can do step-in heels. You can carve on a softboot setup and it's not the worst way to get started especially so late in the season. Turn those bindings forward and practice the norm. Welcome to BOL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Make sure you can carve on your softie setup first. Without even changing anything. Once you are able to do clean pencil mark thin arcs, both heel and toe side and transition without skid, you'd be ready to start working the angles up. I wouldn't go higher then about 40/30 on softies. At that point you'll be ready for hard boots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablapia Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 thanks for comments, I will follow your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purpletiesto Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 I found carving of softboots really difficult, but really easy and comfortable on hardboots. I doubt I could now carve in softboots even. I say start straight in hardboots. Why not? They're more natural, more comfortable, easier to carve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 To "Carve" is a very relevant term... Actually, to carve is simply to ride the board while it's on its edge, it will carve a circle all by itself. But some feel that carving is putting the body on the ground and heading downhill, some feel it's skidding sideways down a hill. I prefer to think of it as putting energy into the board during a turn and getting a little back exiting the turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablapia Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 ok, then. I could work on the Norm which I found doable for me. Maybe I could prepare equipment for next season. would you comment or would you recommend what combination of board, boot, and binding? I really dont know where to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breeseomatic Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) ok, then. I could work on the Norm which I found doable for me. Maybe I could prepare equipment for next season. would you comment or would you recommend what combination of board, boot, and binding? I really dont know where to start. What are you riding now? Edited March 10, 2015 by breeseomatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Start with the boots. IMNAAH (in my not at all humble opinion), boots that fit well are the most important component of hardbooting gear. Secondhand boards and binders are easily found and paid for. But they will all suck if your boots don't fit. Don't go to extremes. Find out which of the 3-4 available boot shapes goes best with your feet. Find a more or less recent pair of 4-5 buckle hardboots. If the liners are shot, find liners. Then take it from there. My $ 0.2. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablapia Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) I am riding K2 arbor. I have pretty small feet 24.5cm from heel to toe, but wide and really flat. often had clamping during riding due to my riding habit as well as small width in my size boot. What are 3-4 available boot shapes? Where to look for boot online ? thanks, really appreciated. Edited March 10, 2015 by ablapia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcousticBoarder Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Agreed you will have a hard time if your boots do not fit well. Be sure to measure your foot in mondo, and then as Aracan said, find out which boot shape will work best, meaning do you have a narrow heel, or wide toes or? Avoid the stock footbeds as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy... Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) I am riding K2 arbor. I have pretty small feet 24.5cm from heel to toe, but wide and really flat. often had clamping during riding due to my riding habit as well as small width in my size boot. What are 3-4 available boot shapes? Where to look for boot online ? thanks, really appreciated. Measure your foot per Bomber's guidance: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/Sizing_boots.pdf If your feet are 24.0cm- 25.0cm, I have a pair of Raichle 314 boots sized 24.0 that I'd be willing to lend you. The liners they come with are kinda crappy, and the spare set of Head liners I have don't fill them out enough, so you can try the stock liners and see how they work, or buy your own liners and have 'em molded to your feet. These boots are pretty soft, so they're good beginner boots and are somewhat higher volume than the Head Stratos Pros that I normally use, so they might work with your wider feet. Now that I think about it, if you ask super duper nice, I might even be able to cob together a pair of F2 bindings you can borrow as well. And depending on how lazy I am, I might just leave the BTS with blue springs on the boots... ;) Shoot me a PM and we can work out the details. As for where to look for boots, liners, bindings, boards and pretty much everything else you'll need below your knees, right here on Bomber in their online store. Edited March 11, 2015 by That Guy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 The 3-4 shapes are: Deeluxe symmetrical (everything but the Track 700 in the current line-up). Rather narrow in the toe, rather wide in the heel. Deeluxe asymmetrical (Track 700 in the current line-up). Not quite as narrow in the toe, not quite as wide in the heel. UPZ. Roomy toe-box, narrow heel. All recent models (RC-10, RC-8, ATB, black-and-white RX-8) are the same basic shape. Stay away from older models (RSV, Mach, Alp). Head/Blax (discontinued): Can't say how these are - I believe they are quite wide in front and back. Take care to get the correct shell size: Remove the liner. Put your foot in the shell all the way, so your toes touch the front. You should get 1-2 fingers behind your heel, not more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablapia Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thanks, Good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Head/Blax (discontinued): Can't say how these are - I believe they are quite wide in front and back. Head is less wide in the toe area then UPZ and less wide in the heel area then Deeluxe. Overall feel is medium/wide. Some of the past and current Dalbello ski boots (but NOT the Krypton series) are the same shells as the Head/Blax snowboard boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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