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New to BOL, building a quiver


Mr. Colon

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Hello BOL,

I am looking for a good starter set-up with bindings preferably. I've been riding for 10 years, and have taught lessons for two. I weigh 265, have size 10.5 foot and currently ride a Never Summer Premier 161. I plan to have pair of Head Stratos Pros as my boots. Can anyone hook a brother up, or at least give me some good advice?

Thanks for any help,

Mr. Colon

P.S. I have spent countless hours reading BOL Forums and can say that I have learned a lot and look forward to learning more.

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You're in the right area to meet up with others and get some demos. I'd suggest that you get the boots ASAP, then get back on the board here and arrange to meet up with some of the local riders and demo some stuff. You'll need something that will work at your weight, and that limits the range of options a bit, but I'm sure there's people with stuff that you can try out. Good luck.

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most smaller decks will be noodles and you will eventually break them

for me at my weight (255 or so) few boards I can make work that are under 170 just too damn soft

so I would suggest a cheapo deck to learn on then go bigger later

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I certainly fit into what they call the Clydesdale class in the local races.

I think you may like the Factory Prime series or the slightly lighter Ultraprime (wider too).

I have also been quite happy with my Canyon 173 by Burton and the Frontier in a 185. They make smaller one and drsub on this forum has a nice 170 for under two hun.

These stiff freestyle boards are great as long as you shape your turns early and don't crank it too hard at the bottom.

I am definitely thinking you should be on something longer. I do have a 167 rossi throttle that is stiff as hell and holds nicely. I would probably need at least a $100 for it ???? Had not really thought about selling but it would be pretty good for what you are doing if you did not want to go long.

At least get your boots and bindings and then you can start borrowing decks. I don't mind loaning a deck out sometimes but all the micro adjusting of the bindings can be a pain. And when I get them where I want them I don't take them off.

Best,

jerry

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Thanks for the post. What set-ups do you have? I am still in the research phase trying to figure out what should I be looking for. What do you think of the Head Startos Pro as boot for large, expereinced softboot freeriders who want to come over to the darkside? Any info is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

G

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I have way too many setups.

Boots:

Red Burton Fires with zip fits. Shells are all cracked, zip fits are falling apart.

Navy Blue Burton Fire with Conformable foam liner with custom foot beds. Boots are cracking in two places liners are good with only two weeks in them. Time will tell.

Boards:

Burton 172 Air with rental plates. Great for teaching and very gentle carving. Too soft torsionally for serious grooves. Good in the bumps and powder. Too soft of nose for deep crud.

Burton Canyon 173 with Burton Race plates.

Great all around board for teaching, pow and crud. Ok in bumps but wider tail does not flow out of trough as nicely as some.

Burton Frontier 185. Long and stiff and wide but not too. Great in pow, chopped crud and all types of groomed carving except for high speed. A little long for bigger, firmer bumps but it eats any kind of chopped pow or gs bumps all day long.

Burton Factory Prime 173 with race plates. Great Gs board that will really hold with proper attention.

Flat nose occasionally augers in on me if I don't shape my turn early enough.

Sims Burner 188 with Burton Race. Great Gs race board. Holds as long as you will. Tail not quite as forgiving as 197 but much better than not split tail boards.

Sims Burner 197.with Burton Race. The king of carve, the cadillac for a trench attack. I can't tell you how much I love this board. I can relax so much when I am carving that I occasionally start to giggle like a teenage girl. If I pay attention to a couple of things it seems as if you can not make it not carve.

Enough for now don't know if this drivel will actually help.

Jerry

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Mistral 167 asym Ecstasy. (Had three of these all together) Actually a great carving board that I destroyed (the first one) learning where the cliff bands are in Crested Butte.

To a Santa Cruz 164 (awesome board for quick, not great for high speed)

To a F2 Speedster 168 (snappy carver very quick)

To a Factory Prime 173 (tire track)

To a FP 173 Gray one ( won a top to bottom Super G on Baldy with this one.

To a FP 173 race stock (Blue one)

To the previous post. There were a few others in there too an Oxygen 167 that was a good carver and a great crud board. The only one that ever lasted until I sold it. And I regretted selling it almost immediately.

Jerry

Add edit: No pics right now of the Rossi but may be able to take some soon. Over the weekend kind of soon.

Jerry

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Being as skinny as I am, would a board in the high 160's be a good choice for carving? Or is something 170-177 better suited to not having to buy another board too soon? People seem to keep metioning Factory Prime's in the 173+ range in a lot of posts for us plus size "newbies".

Thanks,

G

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I think the biggest factor would be how fast do you like to go and what type of turns your local area (or where you ride the most) dictates.

Sun Valley is full of huge wide open groomers with no speed control in many areas. That coupled with my need for speed always puts me on a longer board. The throttle is great for quicker tighter turns it doesn't mean you will outgrow in a certain amount of time as it is still quite stiff and holds great.

I am lazy and will not work any harder than I have to so I go for the longer, bigger carve. On the very rare crowded days that we have here the 197 won't work well and the 188 is marginal.

The factory prime or something similar will still work great even with tons of people around.

Helpful I hope.

Jerry

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