philw Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Softies don't work in my limited experience) beyond perhaps 30 degrees though. I can't remember quite what it is, but you're trying to push one way and the boots want to work the other - something like that. My own approach would be to switch from softs set as softs should be to hards set the way hards work. I would not go for anything extreme on the hard boot side - I ride with about 45 degrees parallel in powder and on piste - that's not a huge difference from 30 degrees parallel. I guess I'm thinking it only takes a few hours to learn a new stance, and the things are different, so there's perhaps not much point in trying to smoothly transition: they are different, they should feel different, you should realise it. Just a thought, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Well... I believe equipments such as soft hardboots tuned with BTS plus flexible plate bindings like Burton race are superior to most advanced softboots and most responsive bindings such as C60 in terms of carving because hardboots are way more responsive and allows riders to better fine-tune edge pressure during the carving... So instead of spending money on good softboots setup which might cost $400 to $500 to get good response on 40+ angle why not spend similar money and go for soft hardboots from the beginning and gradually switch from either duck or mellow forward stance to forward stance until there is no overhang... And boards like Rad Air Tanker reverse camber or Donek Nomad are keeper and people can still use them with hardboots on powder days... I don't mean people should spend a long time on duck stance... Maybe a week or two then gradually introduce forward stance and maybe in a month or two he/she can go forward stance with no overhang... I mean I agree that forward stance with 40+ angle is a way to go... My idea is that instead of doing it from day one maybe it's good to let people develop abilities to carve with such angle in day 15 or so... Just a matter of pace really... The thing is.... For us 45/40 might be a quite relaxed, easy angle but for beginners it can be quite intimidating... And then they try with stiff boots... They don't have fun.... Like the gentleman I saw last season... He was on something like 50/50 on narrow (19cm) burton board... and whenever I saw him I could see he was struggling... Never saw him carving properly the whole season and he was on beginner slope all the time... Was he having fun... As far as I could see he wasn't... But it's not like I'm right you're wrong... My opinion is just that there might be an alternative, gentler way to introduce hardbooting for beginners... Food for thought... Edited January 6, 2014 by leeho730 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSSage Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Sage advice...nice to meet you at Buck and good luck in the rest of your racing season. Carving mom will do well to get started off "on the right foot" with Karl who has been a carving coach and teacher for several years. Getting set up on an appropriate board with a comfortable stance and learning "good" technique. It's easy to develop "bad" habits like reaching down to touch the snow while trying to imitate someone who carves really low. Thank you it was good to meet you too, you guys were making some beautiful carves! I'm just saying you can learn on your own but definitely if you have people you can learn from then learn as much as you can from them. I had to learn technique from watching video because I did not see hard bootees often and it was not the easiest but it eventually worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momsboard2 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I definitely think I need to change up my stance, anyway. After riding for only an hour or two, my back knee is sore. I also think I need to spend one more season on my freestyle board, as I am currently only comfortable at speeds of 15-20mph and from what I understand, that is not enough speed for carving. Here is my current set-up: http://thegoodride.com/snowboard-reviews/burton-deja-vu-restricted-review-and-buying-advice/ http://www.burton.com/default/escapade-est-snowboard-binding/W14-10556100.html http://www.burton.com/default/mint-snowboard-boot/W14-10627100.html The boots are very soft, as you can see from button's rating system. I need new ones anyway. Otherwise, how does the set up look as far as being somewhat comparable to a hard boot ride? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I have some Solomon synapse stiff soft boots for sale they are mens 6.5 if they can help you. This whole stance thing is interesting, coming from softboot stances each time you move higher in angles its a new set of things to learn. Late 90s I used to ride hard boots on non carving boards and the highest I was comfortable was 45/35 but I was what I called a power skidder and rarely used the sidecut of the board. In 2000 I decided to get on a Rossi Slayer and had to move both feet to the 50s and actually ride the sidecut...Yikes:eek: No more back foot kick skid. It took me a bunch of days to get over those angles. I would move progressively up on your angles with your current set up just to get used to operating with out all those back foot bail out options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I definitely think I need to change up my stance, anyway. After riding for only an hour or two, my back knee is sore. I also think I need to spend one more season on my freestyle board, as I am currently only comfortable at speeds of 15-20mph and from what I understand, that is not enough speed for carving. Carving is all about using the edge of your board to ride the whole turn. You don't need lots of speed to to carve. You don't need to turn sharply to carve. These things come later, as your confidence and skill grow. You do need good balance and technique from the beginning. The basics of that are best learned on green runs where you can concentrate on your technique without gaining too much speed. The speed will come anyway because a carved turn has the absolute minimum braking effect. Aim to leave fine lines behind you in the snow. When you make a well carved turn, you will hear, as well as feel, the difference. No scratchy tail skid, no sideways scuffing. Twenty odd years ago, when I was still skiing, I tried a day on a soft boot board. I wanted to be able to ride the mountain like I rode roads on my slalom skateboard. Duckfoot stance felt completely unnatural to me. So I pulled out the screwdriver and rotated my bindings forward to match the stance I use on my slalom skateboard. Lots of falls, and one very puzzled snowboard instructor later, I was starting to make gradual carved turns. You can learn the beginning of carving technique on a soft boot board. And, as the guy in the video shows, it is actually possible to carve very well in softboots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 The best carvers control speed with the way they carve. Going fast is an option not a necessity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSSage Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I definitely think I need to change up my stance, anyway. After riding for only an hour or two, my back knee is sore. I also think I need to spend one more season on my freestyle board, as I am currently only comfortable at speeds of 15-20mph and from what I understand, that is not enough speed for carving. Here is my current set-up: http://thegoodride.com/snowboard-reviews/burton-deja-vu-restricted-review-and-buying-advice/ http://www.burton.com/default/escapade-est-snowboard-binding/W14-10556100.html http://www.burton.com/default/mint-snowboard-boot/W14-10627100.html The boots are very soft, as you can see from button's rating system. I need new ones anyway. Otherwise, how does the set up look as far as being somewhat comparable to a hard boot ride? You do not need speed to carve and the best can make very slow carves and very easily stay under 15 mph. But if you would be more comfortable in soft boots for now them there is no doubt it is possible to carve well in a setup like yours although those boots will not be the best. There is nothing wrong with staying in softies! Experiment with your angles a bit, try a forward stance but at low angles and work up, typically you will want the front foot at a higher angle than the back. The forward stance can really help you to make better carves without slipping as much. As far as similarities go with your board and a hardboot setup, well they are both snowboards that's about it even with hardboots on your board it will not ride like a harboot only board. But that's not saying it's not good or can't carve, I know guys that carve very well on similar boards. Also your board is Camber and that is best for carving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) Dear Momsboard2, Although I'm not as qualified as others here... But if you don't mind my opinion... I guess you're riding on duck stance with wide stance width... So you might want try forward stance, say 21/6... Anywhere between 18-27 at the front and 6-15 at the back... So please find comfortable angles and stance width... Stance width should be no bigger than your shoulder width... If there is too much speed, J-turn (going a bit uphill at the end of the turn) is a good way to bleed some speed... Technique-wise there are tons of videos, not to mention bomber articles, but here is a good one to look at: http://www.extremecarving.com/films/demos/wmv/virage_push-pull.wmv Setup-wise your boots won't be as responsive or stiff as hardboots.... Softest hardboots without tuning would easily be like 9/10 in terms of flex... Your snowboard will be ok for now but in fact is not as good as alpine freeride boards... About getting a new one... I'd say please practise with your current setup as much as possible... Then perhaps when you're ready you might want to buy some cheap second-hand Raichle boots off the Ebay... I got mine for $85... Then buy BTS spring tuning kit from bomber with softest yellow/yellow springs and attach it to the boots... And go for second-hand flexible bindings such as Burton Race from here or on Ebay... If you're lucky you might be able to get those three items for $300 plus shipping... And then try them on your existing board and slowly increase binding angles over a few days until there is no overhang... When you feel like you want more speed, and hate the board losing too much speed after a turn or two when the board is put on high inclination... Then you might be ready to try another, more serious board with at least 9m sidecut radius... About the board recommendation... Please post here and any member will be happy to help you... But honestly... The best thing will be to ride with someone here and follow his or her advice... Edited January 7, 2014 by leeho730 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momsboard2 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 I changed from a 15, 15 stance to a 15, 12.5 stance, and I'm surprised what a difference such a small thing makes! I also ratcheted my bindings much tighter than I usually do, and that helped too. Thanks everyone who has been helping me out! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebionicman Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Here are the protective pads that I use. http://www.xsportsprotective.com/cp2200.html Helps to learn that edge when it doesn't hurt to fall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momsboard2 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Here are the protective pads that I use. http://www.xsportsprotective.com/cp2200.html Helps to learn that edge when it doesn't hurt to fall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks! My knees and hip still hurt from Monday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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