New Board Advice ..after a few years away dont know about the new technology

[ThePauaPoacher]

Firstly might have my terminology wrong in places so just bear with me (I dont know stuff)

I have been away for a few years ... kids are old enough to belt down the hill now so had a few days last year

I was on old technology anyway as boards in New Zealand hard to get ... have a Shine 162 & an Oxygen 164 proton (which I found recently)

Mostly Ruapehu (whakapapa)

Have started to think about up grading as my weight has changed (pie is good)

5'11" 94kg

I have bought last year UPZ M27-27.5 & F2 to replace the old boots that broke first day back & the old SnoPro bindings I was sh!t scared were going to break

My dilema

I am fat ... the Shine has heaps of mileage on it & wants to fold (that said havent tuned properly yet with the new boots & bindings ... would add the boots & bindings seem too much for this board anyway) .. the Proton is cool but goes straight down the hill & I am too fat for it i.e. I want more G's on a carve than flight down the hill

Dont know where to start on the new boards as things have changed so much & add I like the EC developments

I am looking for a board that can make a very extreme carve ... but something that also lets you carve the mileage ... is this the Variable I should be looking for? are the EC boards only good for one thing

I am happy going slow ... in fact would prefer something slower (my old planks no doubt are well slow in todays terms anyway) ... but want more extreme carves

Thoughts would be appreciated

[Algunderfoot]

Contact Bruce at Coiler, nuff said.

www.coilercomposites.com

All his boards are metal, bulletproof, I would suggest a VSR model, "variable sidecut radius" as they give you a variety of turn radaii, unsurpassed edgehold, along with a forgiving predictable ride.

He will build to your weight in any length you prefer...however the VSR, NSR rock, as does the Nirvana which is more versitle, and the Angrry's which really rip. I have a 176, 174 (in production) and a 170, respectively and a 169 VSR-AMT-Asym for my 175 lb 5'11" broke ass frame.

Be fore warned, it wont be be your first and only Coiler, I have five.

Cheers!

Al

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Welcome to Bomber Online!! Great to hear from someone just entering their winter season.

I am pretty heavy, it is easy to understand why some boards may feel like they are going to "Taco" on you.

Al has a very good suggestion, to contact a custom board builder. The current boards are amazing!!

(Al, I tried the link and it didn't work?) Try this one? http://www.coiler.com/home.html

If you are on a budget, try borrowing some boards and or find some local used gear that is stiffer.

The more you try , the more you will know what you like and you can pass that along to your builder.

Try to see if any other BOL members are in your area, or you can meet up. There are several very knowledgeable BOL members in NZ.

Bomber bindings are hard to beat and they are seriously stout. Keep us up to date will you?

Bryan

PS You will need to gain another 30-40 lbs to know how I feel.

you = 94 kilograms = 207.23453 pounds me = much fatter :(

Edited May 15, 2013 by www.oldsnowboards.com

[BlueB]

Proton is actually a very good EC board. The radius is 13m (just like the Swoard 168) and it should flex softish at your weight, which is good for EC. You should be able to make it turn very tight or let her cruise longer turns. I do not see why it would "go straight down the fall line"... EC is mostly technique, as well as the speed of the ride.

Oh, btw, the Protons have a metal/titanal layer in them. It's the "wings" that you see in the top sheet.

Good boots and bindings (I assume F2 Race Ti).

I'd say you are good to go...

Never the less, if ready to spend the money for a custom board, talk to Bruce, be honnest about your riding abillity and goals and he'll build you a good custom board.

Major improvement on the new boards is the nose shape and double titanal layers. VSR (varialble) radius can be nice, but can be confusing too if still learning...

Enjoy your quest.

[Guest]

I do not see why it would "go straight down the fall line"...

My first board was a Proton, and I found that it did not like tracking across the fall line as much as down it. I'm sure most of that was technique, but after hopping on other boards that's what I remember about it.

[leeho730]

PM me, a very happy Donek customer. Been using free carve metal and incline in South Island and so far so good :-)

And Turoa is better for carving...

[Guest]

Welcome! I actually just ordered my first coiler from Bruce - he is excellent to work with and his prices are good for new boards. He can certainly match the materials to your weight.

One comment - which bindings do you have exactly? I am running UPZ RC10's and F2 race titanium and I think the combo is perfect for me (at 145lbs....). Granted, I ride pretty aggressively, but I think they give just enough flex and support for me (maybe a little stiff). I think you may find them a little squishy, especially since it sounds like you like to power into your turns (high G turns on intermediate slopes?). Bryan makes a good point - you might want to look into ordering (or getting a used pair on here) of bomber bindings. I found those to be too stiff for me, but they might work very well for you. Also, stepin is always nice

Have fun and feel free to get addicted.

p.s. Yes Donek is also very good, I used a free carve metal for two seasons and learned EC on it. Very versatile, damp, good boards. I went with coiler this time to mix it up.

[ThePauaPoacher]

Good start ...

Again as been away from it for a while didn't know what gear was going to suit me .. so more through good luck than anything buying the RC10's with F2 Intec Tit step-in's was the right thing to do (weight etc)

Donek

Coiler

Variable the right option.. will start digging

[Neil Gendzwill]

Bruce's website hasn't been updated in a while, best to contact him directly via email or phone.

[jacopodotti]

You could try to contact Andrea Matteoli owner of Kaane boards http://kaaneboards.com/alpine-boards.html who is often in NZ for our summer, so from now on, time and ask him for a board.

You could also find him here in BOL.

If you wish to have his email personal please send me a pm.

He told me that his preferred riding place is Coronet Peak NZ .

[crucible]

I have both a Coiler All Mountain 172, a Coiler Pure Race 186, a Coiler VSR 176, and 3 Oxygen Protons (164, 168, 172).

I find the Protons very easy to carve with good technique, forgiving on variable snow, and especially good on ice, considering that their titanal wing technology was around 10-15 years before the advent of full titanal boards. I get between 25-55 days a season on these boards, and rotate them depending on where I am riding and the snow conditions.

But if I had to just keep one board for overall use, it would be the Coiler AM- either in traditional full glass, or with the newer titanal top sheet, its shape, flex, and materials make it the kind of board that performs well in the most variety of conditions.

[BlueB]

My first board was a Proton, and I found that it did not like tracking across the fall line as much as down it. I'm sure most of that was technique, but after hopping on other boards that's what I remember about it.

That's interesting, before you thought it was hooky...

My first board was a 178 Proton, and I still use it for my rock board. Not a bad board, IMo. It's very hooky though, you might want to detune it about 1/4 of an inch. If you don't, they really lock into a turn, and i've had a few times where I almost went into the trees because of it.

Boards that lock into the turn normally want to go across the fall line and beyond...

[kipstar]

Given the variable riding conditions in NZ, the shorter boards are probably a little easier to get a good handle on riding before you go longer, even at your weight.

Personally I always preferred carving on the Whaka side, but Turoa is probably a little better and easier for improving on. There is not much replacement for time on the mountain, and the Oxy 164 provided it isn't completely knackered should do you fine; they have not much taper in them (difference between the nose width and the tail width) so from what I can recall riding on them, they were quite easy to hook into a turn and carve right out the other side of the fall line, certainly more likely to want to hold the edge than my more modern sigi grabner, which is very happy to let go of an edge when you want (it's actually a good thing) as you pivot or modify turn shapes.

I would definitely get to the point where you can handle riding the board in a variety of speeds and turn shapes and turn types before looking to go to the next level, and you definitely will want to keep a rock hopper for Ruapehu, the number of destroyed edges I have suffered from hidden rocks on that hill is a lot, plus flat light can be a bit easier to ride in on a slightly shorter board.

Once you have got the oxy working well, then the logical step would be an increase in length and speed when you ride and that's where Coilers, , Doneks, Sigi Grabners etc come in.

If you can hook up with him, there is another hardbooter in Auckland called Adas who has an SG and a Donek, good friend, maybe look him up and PM him.

[Jack M]

Here is a writeup about the recent trend in board technology:

http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Bomberfiles/the_new_hotness.html

[Guest]

That's interesting, before you thought it was hooky...

Boards that lock into the turn normally want to go across the fall line and beyond...

Heh, impressions change after 9 years or so. My technique and ability to ride has gotten much better since then.

[purpletiesto]

Bomber Bindings are quite expensive and quite stiff. You might want to check out F2 bindings. Bruce sells them at a great price when you buy a board. You might want to consider these bindings when ordering a board from Bruce.

The user www.oldsnowboard.com is a forum moderator, so he probably feels obliged to push the Bomber products, so take his words with a grain of salt.

Welcome to Bomber Online!! Great to hear from someone just entering their winter season.

I am pretty heavy, it is easy to understand why some boards may feel like they are going to "Taco" on you.

Al has a very good suggestion, to contact a custom board builder. The current boards are amazing!!

(Al, I tried the link and it didn't work?) Try this one? http://www.coiler.com/home.html

If you are on a budget, try borrowing some boards and or find some local used gear that is stiffer.

The more you try , the more you will know what you like and you can pass that along to your builder.

Try to see if any other BOL members are in your area, or you can meet up. There are several very knowledgeable BOL members in NZ.

Bomber bindings are hard to beat and they are seriously stout. Keep us up to date will you?

Bryan

PS You will need to gain another 30-40 lbs to know how I feel.

you = 94 kilograms = 207.23453 pounds me = much fatter :(

[Guest]

Bomber Bindings are quite expensive and quite stiff. You might want to check out F2 bindings. Bruce sells them at a great price when you buy a board. You might want to consider these bindings when ordering a board from Bruce.

The user www.oldsnowboard.com is a forum moderator, so he probably feels obliged to push the Bomber products, so take his words with a grain of salt.

Have you ridden Bombers before? You adjust the flex as you see fit, especially with the Sidewinders. Not only that, they are ideal for heavier people.

Also, Bryan has been a member of this forum for a long time and only recently became a moderator. There's no need to come into a thread and malign someone's character.

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Bomber Bindings are quite expensive and quite stiff. You might want to check out F2 bindings. Bruce sells them at a great price when you buy a board. You might want to consider these bindings when ordering a board from Bruce.

The user www.oldsnowboard.com is a forum moderator, so he probably feels obliged to push the Bomber products, so take his words with a grain of salt.

You are welcome to your personal opinion, those that know me, know I am pretty straight forward and not easily swayed. I very much value my own decision making methods. I recommend what I think is appropriate based on information that is available.

PS. Is there some hidden benefits of being a moderator that I am not privy to? Last time I checked, I am still paying full price :)

I do believe in Bomber Products, they have served me (and this community) well for many years. (Thanks Jim)

[michael.a]

My two cents:

Boards... look into buying a used old board in the upper 170 or 180 range with a larger sidecut, you are riding on boards that are way too short for you especially considering your weight. Also see if you can first try a board that has a VSR, as you may find you don't like it. I found I hated VSR, the most I can stomach are boards with a dual sidecut, e.g. 12/14m.

Get back into the groove with killing on older tech boards, then when you have a decent idea of what you want look into new school stuff. No need to drop serious coin on a Ferrari when you are still learning on your leaner's permit, right? In fact I'd say money spent on lessons/carve camps/general meets is worth 10x than the same spent on equipment. Actually, 50x.

If anything, buying new bindings should be your number one priority, not only due to the safety aspect but the fact they are probably a huge confidence killer.