4.5 Degree TD3 Cant Disk

[Ian M]

Just curious, is there much interest out there for a 4.5 deg cant disk for the TD3's? It feels like a big step between 3 and 6. Maybe we can convince Fin to make a few?

:D :D :D

Cheers,

Ian

[lowrider]

How about just a shim. Enviromentally better, less material, lighter and smaller shipping size and as for most this would probably be an add on rather than a purchase with new bindings. Lets call it the "The Green Shim" seeing how it's St. Paddy's day.

[Hans]

I want 9 degrees :D

[big mario]

6 degree riser and a half hour of judicious belt sanding, with a little tap work, done

mario

[lowrider]

I want 9 degrees :D

Two 4.5 degree shims.

[lowrider]

Scrap my idea shims will change the angle of the screws they will eventually stress and break. Must have been the green beer.

[KingCrimson]

Scrap my idea shims will change the angle of the screws they will eventually stress and break. Must have been the green beer.

What about in addition to the existing cant disks, 1.5 degree shims for underneath the toe and heel blocks? Wouldn't the sort of spherical nature of the hardware be able to compensate for 1.5 degrees of misalignment?

[Ian M]

Shims could work, but they should probably be flat shims between the baseplate and the toe or heel blocks. I have the knowledge and skills to make shims, I'd just be willing to pay for a more finished solution that leaves my toe and heel blocks aligned with each other rather than vertically offset. The TD3 is a strong, clean binding, and I'd like to keep it that way :)

[KingCrimson]

I meant cant only shims, so the blocks would be in the same plane. If used in combination with a 6 degree disc it frees up some room for more lift. But even making high side and low side shims for doing lift wouldn't be hard, but it would be tall. I should cannibalize a Khiro wedge kit just to make a mockup

[lowrider]

I thing the desire for various shims highlites the Catek vs Bomber delema. A true tinkerer will only compromise so far. I would imagine Fin is having a good laugh at this thread since he knows the limits and reasons for going the route he did rather than as Catek had done.

Edited March 18, 2013 by lowrider

[leeho730]

It's possible to bring the 6 degrees disks to the mechanical engineer and get the disk precision milled to 4.5 degrees... Added advantage is that since the cant disks are cast they're not really flat but by milling them you ensure they're dead flat. Once I asked the engineer to shave the cant disk by 2mm... It may cost quite a lot though, I remember costing me 80-100 bucks for 2 disks.

[Corey]

They're not cast, they're CNC'ed from aluminum extrusions.

Agree on the strategy though; any decent machine shop would be able to mill the 6-degree discs down to 4.5-degrees. You'd need to be real specific about what you want done though, as this is a unique part and a unique request. The bolt contact area is quite small, I doubt a 1.5-degree change would matter much.

Is this pure toe/heel lift? That would be easily attained through shims under the toe & heel blocks. If you want some cant, I'm sure you could find some angle of the cant disk and the shims to get exactly what you want.

[Donek]

There's very little need for an in between cant. Most boots have the ability to correct for in between the 3 and 6. You just change the lock position on the back of your boot to where you need it. If you're using a BTS, you can fine tune it all you like. I've never needed to adjust mine, but the pivots on the side of the boot cuff can be adjusted as well. The 3 degrees on the bombers bound the adjustments on the boots. As I understand it from Fin that's where those increments are derived fr

[lowrider]

What about in addition to the existing cant disks, 1.5 degree shims for underneath the toe and heel blocks? Wouldn't the sort of spherical nature of the hardware be able to compensate for 1.5 degrees of misalignment?

A change in the plane from 4.5 to 6 degree would still result in the screw and part interface changing to a position of being out of perpendicular. That would not be good for the long term integrety of the screw. It may not be much but every time the screw is loosened and retightened it bends the screw and will eventually fail. Relatively small screws with a vee thread root would be even more prone to failure. (that's not to say i wouldn't try it for myself but i wouldn't let my kids or wife use it in built that way) Happy tinkering eveyone.

[kieran]

A change in the plane from 4.5 to 6 degree would still result in the screw and part interface changing to a position of being out of perpendicular. That would not be good for the long term integrety of the screw. It may not be much but every time the screw is loosened and retightened it bends the screw and will eventually fail. Relatively small screws with a vee thread root would be even more prone to failure. (that's not to say i wouldn't try it for myself but i wouldn't let my kids or wife use it in built that way) Happy tinkering eveyone.

you could use a crush shim/washer between the screw and binding upper, then the screw and threads would not be misaligned.

[lowrider]

you could use a crush shim/washer between the screw and binding upper, then the screw and threads would not be misaligned.

Just make sure you've got a pocket full because every time you change the screws you should use new washers.