Toe bail question

[LambertoMI]

Has anyone ever put either catek or trench digger toe and heel bails on burton or ibex bindings? I love my bindings and their weight but I just snapped a plastic toe bail. Any ideas other than buy cateks or Tds?

Thanks

Lamberto

[yyzcanuck]

http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Ibex-Toe-Assembly_p_40.html

[Buell]

You might like F2s if you change from Burton.

[leeho730]

Will be almost impossible for Bomber bails, since bomber toe and heel bails are too short. One way is to somewhat mod the rod that holds them tp the heel blocks, but I'm afraid those rods will be too thick for button heel blocks and plastic shims and there isn't much room for changing the thickness by grinding/sanding since the Bomber rods are thin as is (I busted a couple from over tighhtening).

Another way would be to fabricate custom burton heel blocks with 5mm (or 4mm? can't remember) threaded insert hole on each side with stops to prevent bails from flipping over towards the edge. You might have to go to the casting professionals for that, and might be costly.

You may have a bit better chance with Catek toe and heel bail since they come in full length but you might have to cut and create a stop on each end, not to mention Catek bails have 6mm thickness so you might have trouble fitting the bails to both plastic shim and the heel block unless you thin some areas. Well, if you can get the Catek parts in the first place, that is.

I recon both trying to fit catek and bomber bails to burton plate is going to be a giant hassle, but who knows you might succeed.

Try spare parts from bomber or use carving companies "CC" parts, they're supposed to be heat treated and thus more durable.

Edited January 28, 2013 by leeho730

[Beckmann AG]

In the event you meant 'toe flip' when you typed 'bail', I used to use the flips from the old Snowpros when the Burtons went cracky.

[leeho730]

Oh, when I said "with stops to prevent bails from flipping over towards the edge" I was referring to this feature of TD3:

Hard Stops on Bails: No more floppy bails or springs to worry about. All bails have hard stops to keep the bails in their “cocked” position. This includes the Toe Bail for the standard binding - keeping it in a “ready” position to make manual entry a breeze.

Hmmm, one might be able to shorten the shaft, use thin headed nut to create a stop on one end (possibly weld it), use shim to raise the height of burton heel blocks so that lugs will have some clearance. Can use chep elastic strings like some do with snowpro bails. Might work... But of course try at your own risk...

Edited January 28, 2013 by leeho730

[lowrider]

I have surpless Catek toe and heel bales if you decide on this project. My biggest concern would be replacing the rivets and having 100% confidence in the job replacing with nuts and bolts would not have enough strength (in my opinion)as they would have a much smaller diameter(due to thread depth)than the present peened over fasteners.This statement is prefaced on your present toe bale blocks being of peened rivet construction.