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Splitboard advice?


two_ravens

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In my new location I may have more access to backcountry than groomers, so contemplating picking up a splitboard set-up and I'm looking for advice/suggestions. Yes, I know there are actual splitboard forums and I've been there too, but I have to admit I'm addicted to the control and fit of hardboots - it's nearly impossible to find a softy boot to fit my crazy feet, I really seem to need thermo liners. Thought a few souls here might understand...

I know there are at least a few splitters here - what boot/binding combos do you like? What are some good used boards I might look for during the approaching ski swap season? Might it be better just to split my own?

I'm female, 5'7", 125 lbs, current powder board is a Burton Malolo (forget the length - 158 maybe) and I ride it with hardboots.

Thanks!

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The Bomber TD1 Split board set up works well, perhaps a bit heavy in comparison, but reasonable.

Use the Voile system. Avoid the Burton interconnect system.

Splitting your own only saves the cost of the board, you still need to buy all the hardware. Probably not worth the trouble?

I see a increasing number of the smaller split boards up for sale. Prices are pretty reasonable. You don't need to spend a thousand dollars for a new Prior/ Burton etc.

I use my favorite Raichle hardboots. I will note that the original 5 position forward lean adjuster comes in handy in traveling/walk. (versus having a BTS installed)

With the standard Voile split board system the binding angle is limited to approx. 40 degrees. For most that is ok. For me it is really low.

post-198-141842372663_thumb.jpg

Typically around 130 to 160$ for the DIY kit.

Edited by www.oldsnowboards.com
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My current set up is Scarpa Maestrale boots with Bomber Splitboard Sidewinders attached to Voile plates, mounted to a 180cm Venture Storm R.

The boots: light weight, great range of motion, crampon compatible and will work with my snowshoes.

The bindings: it's a Sidewinder, what more needs to be said.

The Voile plate: I'm not thrilled with this plate. It does not feel very sturdy and I question the durability. Granted, I weigh-in at 200lbs.

The board: I went with the long board for the flotation on the way up the hill. With the rockered profile, on the way down the board rides like a 160cm cambered board. Plus, the SCR was larger than I could find on most other boards.

Edited by D.T.
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For what it is worth (probably not much) I am just getting into split boarding. I am 5"5 145lbs. I took an avy level 1 class, did a lot of reading and I spoke with 2 women up in the Sierras that are experienced splitters. They recommended the venture storm or the prior brandywine. The Venture is VERY durable, a bit heavier, slightly more set back, tapered and rocker. The prior brandywine can be customized, but stock is/was a tad skinnier and lighter. Also the prior is more expensive. Our powder tends to be heavier here (Sierra cement) :( On another note I am hearing good things about the donek splits.

Unfortunately I can't ride soft boots anymore due to a spinal fusion with cage in my lower spine. Soft boots are not as forgiving on my back. I also have a damaged right Achilles. My scarpas are fantastic and I can ride them most of the day without pain. I have seen used scarpas online for reasonable prices. Not sure of your boot size, but we have several pairs of hard shells we are going to be selling in the near future once we clean out our garage.

I lucked out on the board. My husband picked it up for my birthday, a demo from Venture lightly used for $300! Too good of a deal to passs up! I think there may be some new Prior brandywines from last year in mammoth. If so they should be reduced in price. Let me know if you want me to find out next time we are there. If they have any left I can definitely get a decent discount for you. There is also a used gear exchange that sometimes carries used split boards.

Boots: Scarpa Magic AT- great comfortable boots!

Bindings: Bomber split bindings

Voile kit

Board: Venture Storm R 156 cm with 24cm width

PS- Bryan, thanks for the heads up on the burton interconnects. We were just wondering about them! :)

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If you are running hard boots look for an AT boot that fits. Mount up some Dynafit toe pieces for touring, and keep the plates in your bag for switch over. The Voile plates are selling cheap if you look around (toe and heel blocks). The Bomber parts would be my choice (I'm 175lbs though).

I modified a slider and puck set up for steeper angles and some plates for direct mounting Catek toe and heel guts. There may still be info on Splitboard forums.

Note- I'm a couple of years out of the loop. It looks like there have been some fun advances in split hard binding tech. I'd look around the split forums.

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Look at the new Trapper snowboards Scott Newsome model. He's the first fully certified ACMG guide to ever complete the course on a splitboard. His set-up is proven.

He also uses the new DeeLuxe Spark XV "soft" boot. It has a true Vibram sole, without being as long as an AT boot. The Sole will give you the power and anti-fatigue characteristics of a hard boot, without stiffening up the ankle like so many others do, to the point that you have no feel in powder. They're also shockingly light. I just think those heavier carving boots might get to you faster than these DeeLuxe's when you're walking around all day.

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PS- Bryan, thanks for the heads up on the burton interconnects. We were just wondering about them! :)

Sorry for the delay, just saw this.

I was an early buyer of the Burton split boards. I had the Cascade I think it was. It didn't take long to realize the binding system was problematic.

Mainly:

Very difficult to get the alignment correct while try to re-engage. Snow would prevent it from laying flat and connecting. It is a beautiful piece of machine work. Unfortunately just doesn't work in the field.

It also has a couple plastic parts that can get broken easily.

When skinning / traversing I could tweek the binding pivot point which also concerned me.

I returned to the Voile system which has it's weak points too. Just simple and more direct.

Being able to "Field Repair" your split system can be VERY important. The Burton system is

really hard to do repairs on.

Enjoy!!

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http://www.levelninesports.com/Atomic-2012-Poacher-Premium-Renu-Splitboard-Wbindings-And-Skins

just came across these. sounds like a good deal for 499 with bindings and skins but I don`t know anything about them.

That does sound like a great value. Probably not "high end" gear , but a complete for 500$ is really cheap.

I have seen some of the Atomic boards and they appear to be good quality. The hardware on this split, I have no info on.

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I have a Voile Split Decision and love it.

Kelly, I would look for a Voile board. They have been making them for a while and you can find them used. The construction quality is great and the Viole binding system is good. It takes a little tweaking to get it set up right but once you do you will not have any problems with it.

I never rode on the Burton system but played with it at the local shop a number of times and it looked horrible. I'd be wary of the Atomic board system as well. Reviews of it's binding system are not good.

With splitboarding, one thing that you have to be comfortable with is a quick change from climb to ride. The Voile system does that well. It's simple and there are not many ways it can clog up with snow. Clogs of snow tend to be easily cleared by the act of disassembling and assembling it. It's well designed.

If your hardboots fit well, and it sounds like they do, I would think you'd want to go with a plate binding for the split like the Voile Mountain Plate or Bomber Splitboard Binding.

Edited by heroshmero
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  • 3 months later...
...so contemplating picking up a splitboard set-up and I'm looking for advice/suggestions.

I see this was made this season so I am responding. sorry for the bumb.

System:

Voile is better than burton. These are the only 2 i have used. I never really used the burton, it kept getting cloged with snow and ice (ha ha ha)

Plate Binding for the Voile:

I agree with www.oldsnowboards.com if we are talking about the same thing. Fin used to make the TD1 bail system on plates that matched the holes of a voile slider. Many websites have people drilling holes in normal trench diggers to make them fit, ignore those people and ignore the comments. A real product for splits exists in TD1 and TD# form at least. I can not seem to find the td1 product on the bomber website but it is or was available. see the photos in this link:

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?11739-Splitboard-bindings-question

Stay away from anything plastic. Snowboard bindings do not release. If one breaks loose the other will rip your knee apart and in the backcountry you might freeze before you limp out. (my philosophy but i am a worrywart).

Boots:

I Like AT BOOTS. (AT=Alpine Touring, also called randonee) They walk uphill nice. They are light. I hate mountaineering boots as they are too flimsy. (but if you like soft boots try them because they feel just like soft boods minus the high back). I have never tried ice climbing boots. It sounds like you like stiff boots. Try on the AT Boots, do not order mail order. Scarpas fit me, my wife likes garmont, my budy can only wear BD. Try them on that is the only advice that matters. Bring differnt sized socks and insoles if you use them. I like my scarpa spirits so much I often use them in the resort rather than proper boarding boots.

Most AT boots now have the dynafit system built in these days. The patent ran out i think. Dynafit is two metal reinforced holes on the sides of the front of the toebox and a crazy grove thing in the heel. This is ontop of the DIN/Toe Bail system. You might not use dynafit if you dont ski but it is the lightest of the ski bindings and I would not be surprised if that is the next split binding system.

I can not walk uphill in proper (hard) snowboard boots. I have but it is hard. Snowboard boots will accept crampons if you go this route.

CRAMPONS, trust me:

Get a cheap pair of toe bail crampons. Sierra Trading post often has low end Camp brand crampons for $50-100 in the summer. These things will save you (after they poke holes in your bag, jacket, lunch, water bottle). And putting um on in a storm is so easy compared to the stappy things the softbooters use.

Fat is better for backcounty:

Except in the the spring when snow is corny and floatation is not important i have found fat boards to be needed in the backcountry. I like long fat boards. Long for the edge on ice and fat for the floatation. Skinny boards dive under and sink. I prefer skinny on the resort but found it to be impractical off piste.

Long for Ice, Short for trees:

If you are going to spend alot of time in the trees go short. If you want control on ice try going long. Long also helps with floatation. The longest skins from voile are too short for the 173 that i have. If I was using a shorter board i would point out that longer with full length skins is better for up hill.

Metal edge:

I have seen many DIY split boards. I really would miss that inner metal edge. It is handy when climbing up hill and it keeps the p-tex nice. I advise buying a proper manufactured split board.

Increased Hematocrit:

Buy a gym membership and exercise or sleep in a hypobaric tent (ha ha ha). Those telli and randonee people just remove the skins and go. So to keep up you have to beat them up the hill by 10 minutes to assemble your board. Pain in the butt.

AVI:

Obviously an avi course, a shovel (i like the ones with the saw in the handle), a probe, a beacon are needed but that is another thread.

Stance Angles:

If you want big carver foot angles see this post:http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4415&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

and

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?11739-Splitboard-bindings-question

Or what the hey i will repost the photos below. Even if you do not use carver stance angles the assurance that you are being held down by aluminum and not plastic is kinda nice. Heavy but nice.

attachment.php?attachmentid=33183&d=1359770903

attachment.php?attachmentid=33185&d=1359770903

attachment.php?attachmentid=33184&d=1359770903

attachment.php?attachmentid=33186&d=1359770903

attachment.php?attachmentid=33187&d=1359770903

Edited by cadmus
typos
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this is the link to the split board bindings.

http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Splitboard-binding_p_112.html

I recall the old versions being way cheaper but that was a long time ago. I think i spent less than that on my entire board, binding, skins, car, and boots (together). But knees are expensive also. And these look lighter and have that side winder system. You might call them because some people like NO flex and they might still have the old (non sidewinder) ones available. I would not want sidewinder when skinning up.

With bomber you get what you pay for, the stuff is well made and you will never break it. Sticker shock but worth it.

However as a poor grad student I have to hope for TD1 stuff on ebay.

Edited by cadmus
OCD
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  • 9 months later...

Hey Cadmus - sorry for the slow reply - want to thank you for all the info. By the time you posted this I was set up with a Prior Khyber, Voile mountain plates (yeah, i know - plastic. :( But I don't weigh anything, so hoping I can get away with it) and Scarpa Magic AT boots. And we were having a really bad snow year, and.... the people who made huge efforts to find any snow were dying - we'd just had several locals get avalanched, two deaths at the time you posted. One gal released an 8" crown and paid with her life... :( So - hung up the split board and just stuck to lift served carving. Maybe this winter will be better.....

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