cadmus

It IS Superbowl Sunday tomorrow, best Sunday skiing of the year. Maybe the best of the decade because the Broncos are playing. I wish they would move the game to 11am kick off. That would keep the riffraff at home.

Anyone at eldora Fed 2nd of 2014?

BECKMANN AG, Hey, those are great jigs. Thanks for sharing. That top one, is that normal (square) and Burton (triangle) hole jigs? I like the centering mechanisms for the round puck. Very cool. What stock comes in round disks? Where did you get that? What alloy? Thank for sharing, Pete Cadmus

Hahaha. Yeah. I am not new. I am lazy (32 posts since 2005, ha ha ha) I have been hard booting resort since 99. Hard booting backcountry since 2004. I read alot of the posts here but rarely post. I should. 1-I will for sure save for used TD2, i have bid on 3 in the last 2 years. I might bid more now that i know it is 360deg capable. Then keep the TD1 on the shorter/wider board. 2-I had no clue i might be causing damage to my board by the TD1 but i know the bomb proof donek 205 and all my other boards were built in the td1 era or shortly after so i think i am safe. Good to know that some manufactures feel there is a risk. But I like stiff. I know Fin is big on makeing the perfect ergonomic flex wit the newer generations but stiffer the better. So i will avoid newer boards. 3-looking at my new stance angle on that donek i probably do not need the 3deg cant in the front as the boot can just be adjusted. I can likely make the puck from flat stock if i keep the TD1s until i have a better income. I have a drill press that sometimes works. Just need to find a way to cut the circle like profile unless i cut 2cm off a solid 4" rod which would never be flat/level. What alloy is best? Thanks all. This has been very helpful. Today was the last day boarding for me this year. Eldora was sush by 1pm. Backcountry this years is crap so i hold no hope for spring. I work 100 hours/week in the spring. I wrote this original post in haste, ready to drill and tap to have that perfect last day. but I am glad i waited. I have better options now. Still looking for ideas if others have a quick mod or if others have cheap TD2s for sale.

Beckmann, good stuff here. I will have questions in a few hours. Let me ponder.

enabled. sorry, so many settings.

my entire life has been "thinkering" and "tinkering" Everyone tells me "you can't do it unless you are a professional" and i normally do it better.

OK list ones that go to 80 or 85 deg. I am all ears. What angles will the TD2 and TD3 go to? I never followed the catek line so i have no clue what the models were around. What angles do they go to? I can live with slightly softer flex, but would like to avoid it. I would like to find stiffer boots so buying less stiff bindings would be a step backwards. I was sad when the TD2&3s were released and had that little shock absorbing layer. I HATE the idea of sidewinders. I refuse to use anything with plastic between the board and the boots including toe-bails. So, no f2 or burton. (Burton almost took my leg off) So it is bomber or catek. do you really think so? What is this based on?

It is only when i eurocarve. If i really layout the turn so my body skims the snow. It is a rough slow frequency chatter on the heel. But it is rare on the heel. On the toe it is the same frequency but it digs in and stops the board in a couple meters. It disappeared when i changed the back stance angle and, holy cow was it fun to ride. But boarding with identical angles of 70 70 was not a long term solution. I snowboard partly because it is better for the knees but not at that stance angle.

Reading this with some sleep in my head it sounds like i totaly blew off lowriders help. sorry man. Thanks for the input. Same with you oldsnowboards. It was super late and i was curt. Good idea.

It is posted here: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?11739-Splitboard-bindings-question and here: http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4415&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=0 I can send additional phootos or info anytime. let me know. Summer projects are to add cant (raise the front toe and raise the back heel) on the split board and get that TD1 to go to 80 or 85. If you have ideas on either let me know and if i come up with a way to mill aluminum stock in the shape of the voile puck i will make extra for you if not too expensive.

I can not mill new ones with my limited equipment. I will never make anything out of plastic. I swore i would only use metal bindings. Too many close calls. A Burton demo board let loose on the front foot at a very unsafe speed and i swore only bombers from now on. I even made aluminum slider pucks for my voile split board.

185mm waist mondo is 28 to 29 (I normally use 28 - 28.5 on my carving boards. I bought these raichle boots too small. I have bigger scarpa AT boots (28.5-29) for back county that might someday become my carving boots because they are so cumfy)

no, my idea will not work. Not enough metal to tap new holes in the puck.

I have been looking all winter, I have never seen a pair of td2s for skwal that was not attached to a board (being sold with a board). The new td3s are worth more than my car. But yes, that is the best option. I will post the specs when i get home. Certainly a mod has been done, i only need 0 or 15 degrees. Those little shock pads might get in the way but they can also come off.

I upgraded to a 205cm donek custom thanks to a kind Bomber member who was willing to part with it. I finally have enough edge to lay out all the way in most conditions. Sadly, when i do my toes hit. I have always rode 70 & 60 foot angles on resort boards but would go more aggressive if possible. Now I have to ride 70-70 to keep the back foot from hanging over the board. I am kinda a duck walker to begin with so that is painful. 80&70 or 85&70 would be better. Does anyone have a way to get a TD1 to go past 70. I am toying with taping a new set of 4 holes in the cant puck that is slightly offset. But I figured others had come up with a better way. Thanks in advance for the help,

The boss is mad that i am past deadline on a paper. If i can finish it saturday I will FOR SURE be going. Sadly that is why i have hardly boarded this year. Edit 5pm Sunday afternoon: It is raining. I think that is a bad sign. I sure hope it is snow up in the mountains, radar is not looking good. I am not as far along on this manuscript as i need to be. But i am trying to hussle.

very cool Andrei!!!!! great idea for camera placement. what runs were those?

GREAT. Keep the vids coming.

What are condition like? they had a ton of snow last week but it has been very hot since.

it started late in colorado also

it is called 'Humor' bro. it is a pet ground hog and a bunch of old guys in top hats. chillout. But i appreciate your advocating for science...unfortunately the long range models are going to agree with phil until we start taxing carbon.

http://www.cnn.com/2013/02/02/us/groundhog-day/index.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88G64HDdaAc Screw you Punxsutawney Phil. freaking early spring

this is the link to the split board bindings. http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Splitboard-binding_p_112.html I recall the old versions being way cheaper but that was a long time ago. I think i spent less than that on my entire board, binding, skins, car, and boots (together). But knees are expensive also. And these look lighter and have that side winder system. You might call them because some people like NO flex and they might still have the old (non sidewinder) ones available. I would not want sidewinder when skinning up. With bomber you get what you pay for, the stuff is well made and you will never break it. Sticker shock but worth it. However as a poor grad student I have to hope for TD1 stuff on ebay.

I see this was made this season so I am responding. sorry for the bumb. System: Voile is better than burton. These are the only 2 i have used. I never really used the burton, it kept getting cloged with snow and ice (ha ha ha) Plate Binding for the Voile: I agree with www.oldsnowboards.com if we are talking about the same thing. Fin used to make the TD1 bail system on plates that matched the holes of a voile slider. Many websites have people drilling holes in normal trench diggers to make them fit, ignore those people and ignore the comments. A real product for splits exists in TD1 and TD# form at least. I can not seem to find the td1 product on the bomber website but it is or was available. see the photos in this link: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?11739-Splitboard-bindings-question Stay away from anything plastic. Snowboard bindings do not release. If one breaks loose the other will rip your knee apart and in the backcountry you might freeze before you limp out. (my philosophy but i am a worrywart). Boots: I Like AT BOOTS. (AT=Alpine Touring, also called randonee) They walk uphill nice. They are light. I hate mountaineering boots as they are too flimsy. (but if you like soft boots try them because they feel just like soft boods minus the high back). I have never tried ice climbing boots. It sounds like you like stiff boots. Try on the AT Boots, do not order mail order. Scarpas fit me, my wife likes garmont, my budy can only wear BD. Try them on that is the only advice that matters. Bring differnt sized socks and insoles if you use them. I like my scarpa spirits so much I often use them in the resort rather than proper boarding boots. Most AT boots now have the dynafit system built in these days. The patent ran out i think. Dynafit is two metal reinforced holes on the sides of the front of the toebox and a crazy grove thing in the heel. This is ontop of the DIN/Toe Bail system. You might not use dynafit if you dont ski but it is the lightest of the ski bindings and I would not be surprised if that is the next split binding system. I can not walk uphill in proper (hard) snowboard boots. I have but it is hard. Snowboard boots will accept crampons if you go this route. CRAMPONS, trust me: Get a cheap pair of toe bail crampons. Sierra Trading post often has low end Camp brand crampons for $50-100 in the summer. These things will save you (after they poke holes in your bag, jacket, lunch, water bottle). And putting um on in a storm is so easy compared to the stappy things the softbooters use. Fat is better for backcounty: Except in the the spring when snow is corny and floatation is not important i have found fat boards to be needed in the backcountry. I like long fat boards. Long for the edge on ice and fat for the floatation. Skinny boards dive under and sink. I prefer skinny on the resort but found it to be impractical off piste. Long for Ice, Short for trees: If you are going to spend alot of time in the trees go short. If you want control on ice try going long. Long also helps with floatation. The longest skins from voile are too short for the 173 that i have. If I was using a shorter board i would point out that longer with full length skins is better for up hill. Metal edge: I have seen many DIY split boards. I really would miss that inner metal edge. It is handy when climbing up hill and it keeps the p-tex nice. I advise buying a proper manufactured split board. Increased Hematocrit: Buy a gym membership and exercise or sleep in a hypobaric tent (ha ha ha). Those telli and randonee people just remove the skins and go. So to keep up you have to beat them up the hill by 10 minutes to assemble your board. Pain in the butt. AVI: Obviously an avi course, a shovel (i like the ones with the saw in the handle), a probe, a beacon are needed but that is another thread. Stance Angles: If you want big carver foot angles see this post:http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4415&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a and http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?11739-Splitboard-bindings-question Or what the hey i will repost the photos below. Even if you do not use carver stance angles the assurance that you are being held down by aluminum and not plastic is kinda nice. Heavy but nice.