Gcarve Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Have had the new boots on a few times and the fit just gets better and better. The extreme pressure in the heel is subsiding and things feel as though they are molding nicely. The heel is still very tight, but a good tight. When I first carpet rode my RC10's at the tail end of last season, I could only wear them for 30 min or so before the pressure from the heal pads on my feet became uncomfortable. After that first time, every time I put them on, they felt better and better. Soon after I rode them hard on the slopes for four straight days, and they felt like a perfect extention of my feet - very comfortable, no painful pressure points at all. Of course I could have heat molded them from the start, but would have missed the fun of walking around the house breaking them in. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gcarve Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 I found if l undid the locking mechanism a the back.................... my heel slipped perfectly into the heel cup. That is the best way to put these boots on, without a doubt! Without unlatching into "walk mode", you almost need to be Houdini to slide your feet into the RC10's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 When I first carpet rode my RC10's at the tail end of last season, I could only wear them for 30 min or so before the pressure from the heal pads on my feet became uncomfortable. After that first time, every time I put them on, they felt better and better. Soon after I rode them hard on the slopes for four straight days, and they felt like a perfect extention of my feet - very comfortable, no painful pressure points at all. Of course I could have heat molded them from the start, but would have missed the fun of walking around the house breaking them in. :D Good to hear. I'm holding out on heat molding as they are feeling awesome now. Indeed, I quite enjoy wearing these around my house in preparation for the upcoming season although I'm still getting the hairy eyeball from my gf...I'm not quite out of the doghouse yet for buying these :) Another update: Was in the boots for 30 minutes last night and everything is fine except that the second buckle is completely maxed out. I'm hoping it's because it's the warmer indoor temperatures. Does anyone else have this problem with running out of adjustment (or coming close) on the 1st to 3rd buckles? I don't really need them that much tighter but would prefer to have a little more adjustment for down the road before I fully commit to these. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Tried them on last night. First off, the fit/finish/quality of these boots is the best I've seen - everything looks really solid and they are actually quite pretty The green is not as "neon" as I thought it would be, nor as shiny. Hilux - I immediately felt pain in my heel when I put these on, but thanks to your post, I knew to stick it out and it would be fine, which it is. After wearing them for about 2hours (I was playing a computer game) the right foot feels 90% comfortable and the left about 75% comfortable (with 100% being the perfect fit). I need to tweak them a little, but overall, they are great. QUESTION: Did anyone else notice how hard the micro adjust on the buckles is? Some were super easy, but others feel like they are stuck or I'm breaking/bending them almost. Any insight into this would be really helpful, as I think my problem is that they are just a tad too tight, even factoring in that they will pack out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gcarve Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I'm still getting the hairy eyeball from my gf :lol: Ah yes, the dreaded hairy eyeball! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gcarve Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 QUESTION: Did anyone else notice how hard the micro adjust on the buckles is? Some were super easy, but others feel like they are stuck or I'm breaking/bending them almost. Any insight into this would be really helpful, as I think my problem is that they are just a tad too tight, even factoring in that they will pack out a bit. Mine were a little tight the first time I adjusted them, but nothing like what you're describing. Perhaps you've reached the end point of their adjustment range, and hit the proverbial stopping point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Tried them on last night. First off, the fit/finish/quality of these boots is the best I've seen - everything looks really solid and they are actually quite pretty The green is not as "neon" as I thought it would be, nor as shiny. Hilux - I immediately felt pain in my heel when I put these on, but thanks to your post, I knew to stick it out and it would be fine, which it is. After wearing them for about 2hours (I was playing a computer game) the right foot feels 90% comfortable and the left about 75% comfortable (with 100% being the perfect fit). I need to tweak them a little, but overall, they are great. QUESTION: Did anyone else notice how hard the micro adjust on the buckles is? Some were super easy, but others feel like they are stuck or I'm breaking/bending them almost. Any insight into this would be really helpful, as I think my problem is that they are just a tad too tight, even factoring in that they will pack out a bit. Nick, 100% agree with the fit and finish. Definitely look and feel like high quality boot. And the green is much better in person. After almost a week of wearing these I can say that they do take time to mold and pack out. For those unsure of the fit, give them a chance, even 2, 5, 10 minutes at a time, just get in them put your weight on them, warm them up (with your body heat) and they will change fit...hopefully for the better. If you feel too much pain, give it a break, try again in a bit. That's been my approach so far and it's worked out great. My "issue" now is that I'm starting to feel the volume through the midsection of my foot. However, I'm not swimming in them by any means and my heels are staying planted. I'm going to try putting in the pads that were included that go on the liner at the sides/top and/or try putting thin layer of something-rather under the liner. It looks like the pads stick on with velcro. I also had to keep in mind that the fit changed quite a bit from when I was sitting to when I was standing. I really started to worry that they were too wide when I was sitting and pressure was off. When standing your foot widens with the weight of your body so this is more representative of how it will fit on the mountain (and prevents cutting off circulation). Just a simple FYI for others :D Tight micro adjust buckles: Yes, I had about 3 that were really tight and I thought I was going to break them but then they loosened up after I buckled up the boots a few times. Don't know why they did this but it seemed to work after a while. That all for now :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I'm using older boots (RTRs). The pieces that go on the liner with velcro to snug up the fit in the midfoot work great for me. Definitely play with them if you think there's any slop there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Ok, after fiddling with them a little last night: Right foot is surprisingly almost there, 95% on the comfort scale, I can't believe it. I could see how these liners would be cold, however, so we will see. Fit-wise, I'm loving it. Left foot is losing circulation over time - and believe me I have everything max'd out. Indeed, I think that is where the buckle micro adjust issue was coming from, I just couldn't believe that they were really tight MAXED OUT - so anything tighter was way overkill. Something I noticed that should help people with fit: The tongue on the liners is actually adjustible to a degree. I took the liner out, detached the velcro tongue, and repositioned it so that the tongue lined up with the curve of my foot better (it's not easy...lots of cursing involved trying to get my fingers in there). I still haven't dialed this in quite yet on the left foot, but just so everyone is aware, it's worth a shot moving this around. Sole length - So my bindings were still set up for the Heads I was using...I do not think the advertised short sole length is a gimmick - I had to move my heel receiver peice up about 1cm until the boot was locked in. For me, this is drastically shorter than the Heads and I was able to not only center the boots correctly in binding, but push a degree or two lower in my stance. Hairy eyeball:cool: (shades to cover them up): Funny - my girlfriend wanted me to send her pictures of the boots - she was excited for me, haha. I have bright orange pants that I wear when I ride so these boots are going to look siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick:barf: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Tried these on snow yesterday and have mixed feelings. Performance-wise overall they're great, nice flex etc. My left foot felt great but not perfect. My right foot however was in excruciating pain by the end of the day. The liner and tongue are the main culprits. 1. I tried several times to reposition tongue but the outside ridge kept digging in to the top of my foot and cutting off circulation thereby making my foot tingly. It feels like the tongue is deformed to begin with as the left one feels much more conformable to my foot. 2. My ankles are bruised just below the ankle bone which I find very strange. 3. A good case of shin-bang and overall soreness in my foot. 3. Major heel slip between liner and boot shell while flexing during riding...very annoying! I tried everything to get the foot to feel comfortable but nothing seemed to help. I probably should have called it quits upon first feeling of pain but I had faith that it would get better. Pretty disappointed and frustrated. I'm not blaming the boot 100% as part of the problem is my foot structure, shape. The last thing I want to do is spend more cash on liners but it might be the only option because the shell performance is great. Bah... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEBSIGHT360 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 I had a similar problem of the tongue of the liner causing pain on one of my shins. Repositioning the Velcro attach-point of the tongue up by the toe, remedied this for me. You have to pull the liner out of the boot to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 WEBSIGHT- Thanks for the suggestion but I did reposition tongue several times, moved velcro/tongue to either side and front/back in various combinations but nothing helped. As I mentioned it feels as thought the tongue is deformed...or is that my foot?;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurse ben Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 @Hilux Try riding them with liners from your other boots. Did you heat them yet? If you have pain where the tongue edge presses into your shin, you may need to try and curve/flex them backwards so the edge is flatter. Also, with heating this edge will recess into the liner. They are stiff liners, so even though I have a set, both of my boots are set up with Scarpa thermowraps. BTW, my son and I used the UPZ RTR-ATB with the red tongue (soft) and the UPZ ATB-ATB with the black tongue (medium),, they are pretty close to the same feel, though it seems like the RTR with red tongue is a little bit softer flexing; I rode them the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Try Eliminator shin guard pads. I speak from experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Try Eliminator shin guard pads. I speak from experience. These things were the best thing I had ever bought, used them for my old deeluxx and now for my UPZ's.. I had a two year old UPZ's and the liners in my new green ones are an improvement.. But the eliminators keep my foot from moving around by seating them im the boot and eliminates shin bang.. just make the boot more comfortable!! IMHO Right Said Shred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Some of your observations suggest you are fighting your equipment (points 2 and 3). What sort of binding angles/canting do you have? I just did an unintentional experiment. I put my TD3s on a board but switched the 3 degree disk to the front and the 6 degree disk to the rear. Without giving it much thought (I was in a hurry to get some runs in before the crowds) I used the same settings (as in, the same numbers showing) for cant. That caused me to go from slight inward cant on the rear (3 degree disk), to a lot of inward cant (6 degree disk). It was really uncomfortable right away, and it got worse (and very tiring). It was like my instep was being crushed. I went back in and changed to no cant (cant disk setting same as binding angle) on the rear and it was just as comfortable as the day before (very comfortable). Are you tightening the buckles too much to compensate for a sloppy fit? They should require only a light touch to close. If you have spots that have slop, use boot-fitting foam. I've just been doing that and it helps (but I'm still not there yet). I don't recall if you said you had any sort of footbeds, but ones that work properly might help, together with cant adjustments on the bindings. I'm still using the stock footbed, but I am getting to the point where other problems are getting solved enough that I can see the need for the footbeds to fit correctly. Hope something is helpful here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 @ Shred: Ya, perhaps the next step is eliminator shin pads. Part of me wants to save that $50 and put that towards new liners though. Or is it that good that I'd want them anyway? @teach: setup 3* heel and toe lift rear 50* with 0.8* of outward cant front 55* with 0.3* degrees on inward. Perhaps I'll set canting back to 0 and go from there. Went from stock UPZ insoles, to superfeet (green then black) to Conform-able Volcano, and now back to stock ones because they hurst the least. I do like a tight fit when riding so they are pretty tight. I wouldn't call the fit sloppy but it's not perfect. Booster straps have been a nice addition though but I'm generally pretty uncomfortable in my boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
energyrail Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 the newer upz boots have a different cant plate at the hinge point. Then my 08 rtr's. Does this change the flex direction, like assm.? old ones have the screw in the center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I just put about 3 solid days on a set of 2010-2011 UPZ RC-10's. I downsized from last year, and spent several days wearing them around the house, before I was ready to put them to use on snow. I also switched the heels out to Fintecs. Stock liners. And, although everyone says it's unnecessary, I T-nutted the toe pieces. I've noticed a couple of things :- a) the red plastic piece on the Fintec heels wears away crazy fast. Does anyone know if Cat-tracks will hold on the Fintec heal? I assume that this piece is purchasable separately (at least I hope so). b) I get some pain on the outside of my feet around the toe/ball of the foot area, especially after a few hours of wearing them. I'm wondering if my foot is sliding laterally in the boots and loading up the side of the boot. I know I over-pronate. So, I'm wondering if a custom footbed might help, or if I need that area to be punched out. I'll probably take the boots to a boot-fitter at next chance I have for a diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I use Yak-Trax on my UPZs. I was told by another BOL member who tested both that they were a lot better than the Cat Track ones. I got the medium (based on printed sole length of 324 mm) and it's still a little big for the M29s. They work great, other than falling off on the stairs if I'm not careful. Great traction and a cushy feel. They'd work fine over the Fintecs, and I wish I'd had them earlier, since toe pieces for UPZ are $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Thanks Teach. I did confirm that the Large Cat-trax were too big for the M28's. It's the short heel length on snowboard boots, I guess. I'll check out the Yak Trax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Teach - are you talking about the Yaktrax skiTrax product? http://www.yaktrax.com/skitrax I found an old thread that mentioned these :- http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=338691&postcount=24 Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExcelsiorTheFathead Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I use the small size YakTrax SkiTrax on my 287mm (25.5/26/26.5) RC10s. These worked fine at first, but started to fall off all the time, which annoyed me greatly. I found the X-small size on a closeout, but these require lots of stretching to put on, almost too much. The other day I experimented with a heat gun on the small ones which fall off. Using the low (~700W) setting, starting from a respectable distance with a fast fluttering motion, I was able to shrink the bridge area between the toe and heel pieces, as well as tighten up the rubber around the toe. At least temporarily, it has helped a lot. You can actually see the rubber shrink while applying heat. I'm not sure to what extent the heating is damaging the rubber, but at least it is usable now, instead of being useless. If you smell burning, you are applying too much heat. Seirus Cat Tracks are much less substantial, but have the benefit of fitting into a pocket much easier than the YakTrax. I haven't looked at them in a while, but I think that they don't conform well to the rear heel of a UPZ (not sure). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Pukas Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Rather than start a new thread, I'm going to ask the question here - how are UPZ RC-10 shell's sized? Do they run 24-24.5, 25-25.5, 26-26.5, etc. the way most normal plastic shell boots run? Is there any relation to the numbers printed on the shell of the boot in front of the rear heal block to the actual size of the boot? Cheers! mpp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Rather than start a new thread, I'm going to ask the question here - how are UPZ RC-10 shell's sized? Do they run 24-24.5, 25-25.5, 26-26.5, etc. the way most normal plastic shell boots run? Is there any relation to the numbers printed on the shell of the boot in front of the rear heal block to the actual size of the boot? Cheers! mpp Check here and use the drop-down menu on the boots, you can see the sizing. http://upzboots.com/pricelist.html Yeah there is a cheat-sheet to get from the shell size to the MP #. This is what Dan sent me when I asked the same question :- "the mm lengths on the shells are the mm length if you have DINs in the boots and used them with ski bindings. the mm does not really correspond to snowboard bindings at all except that a certain mm equals a certain mp 299 = 27s 312mm = 28s 324mm = 29s" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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