heroshmero Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 As far as I understand, clothoid profile is a progressively changing sidecut that is "tightest" at the tip and "straightest" at the tail. Clothoid is different than the short-long-medium profiles of the "hook" tail boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef1 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 Thanks Randy! From my interactions with Kessler I got the feeling freecarve boards with a narrowing sidecut towards the tail were not an unusual request for him. I've only been out on the custom once and the difference with my stock Kessler BX in terms of finishing turns is not that apparent on blue slopes but on anything steeper, the BX requires more concentration immediately after the apex of a turn as it wants to race straight down the hill at speed whereas the custom naturally wants to continue the carve and therefore you can control your speed better. Just out of curiosity, Randy, what is the taper on your custom? It does sound like yours has similar sidecut characteristics as mine. Interesting, and welcome to the carved turn. I just went down the road of updating all my older gear, minus the bindings...no decision as of yet...after being out of the game for the last 10 or so years. I ended up ordering a custom from Kessler as well. Wanted a Freecarve oriented version of their Alpine shape. After explaining this and giving my weight (225lbs), etc. he informed me he knew exactly what I wanted. This ended up being his Alpine, 162 in length with a 23 ww. I inquired about the KST used and his confirmation in reply was as follows:Hi Randy Yes we used KST = variable SideCut. It is starting with 7.8 in front going up to 11 in the middle and down to 8.8 in the back 11m is the biggest one on the center section. Hope this is helping you Very best regards hansjuerg kessler So, I'm currious as to Jack's comments above and from what I gather with my feeble mind, this would seem to be a hookier turn than his normal build. Maybe this is his main mod to make this board more freecarve friendly...don't know, but I'm darn currious now. He sent me the board in April, so I've not had a chance to make any turns on it as of yet given I live on the East Coast. Randy Jack, I'm waiting on the new 5D MK 111, or hell, maybe even what FF Nikon has coming soon to replace the 700. We'll see. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 As far as I understand, clothoid profile is a progressively changing sidecut that is "tightest" at the tip and "straightest" at the tail. Clothoid is different than the short-long-medium profiles of the "hook" tail boards. That is my understanding as well. Didn't realize they also made "hook" or VSR (short-long-medium) shapes before. Yeah Randy, I'm waiting for the 5DIII too. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Kight Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Stef1, I wish I could tell you. I'm not sure what the taper is on this guy. I'll send an email back to Kessler and ask...once again, admitting my ignorance. Once I get something back, I'll post reply. I'm excited to lay down some turns on this thing for sure. I've got a question for you. What made you decide to put the F2's on? Any thoughts to Fin's creations, maybe the SW's? Randy Kight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 As far as I understand, clothoid profile is a progressively changing sidecut that is "tightest" at the tip and "straightest" at the tail. Clothoid is different than the short-long-medium profiles of the "hook" tail boards. I dug this out of the patent: RG is the radius as viewed from the top of the board. RS is the radius as viewed from the side of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 As far as I understand, clothoid profile is a progressively changing sidecut that is "tightest" at the tip and "straightest" at the tail. Clothoid is different than the short-long-medium profiles of the "hook" tail boards.short-long-medium hook profiles can be clothoids as well, except there are (at minimum) 2 of them. one linking short to long, and another linking long to medium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef1 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hmmm…the plot thickens re: VSR v. Clothoid. Maybe it's a VCR - variable clothoid radius :) Shame Herr Kessler isn't on this forum to resolve the issue himself…though in a way it's more fun to have everyone pitching in their different opinions! Randy, I may be saying something silly but I think you can work out the taper by subtracting the tail width from the nose width. You must be dying to try out your board! If it's anything like mine, you'll love it! It will be easy to manouvre because of the decambred tips yet still hold an edge like it's nobody's business! In response to your question, I got the F2 bindings because that was the only model they had in the shop! And this from supposedly one of the best stocked alpine snowboard shops in Switzerland (plus it was 150 miles from where I live!). The bindings are easy to install and use and not too stiff. My only criticisms are that they don't come with that many canting/lift options and I've had some issues with the bindings rotating during use - but I think adding some loctite and removing some ill-judged washers should fix this latter problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Kight Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks for the input on the F2's Stef. Yes, when I get a chance to measure out the taper, I'll report back. Been out of town for a good while so board is miles away. Hopefully Kessler will email back the info, as that will be faster, and I don't recall that info being shipped with the other documentation. And yes...I'm foaming at the mouth to try her out! I'm hoping at my weight that the rearward radius won't be to small, but who am I to question Kessler shape geometry, as he told me thus is what I neede! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatoos Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 I got the F2 bindings because that was the only model they had in the shop! And this from supposedly one of the best stocked alpine snowboard shops in Switzerland (plus it was 150 miles from where I live!). Stef-you think! you have a top model F2 bindings-is used in the World Cup- beside next model Race Tittanium.One of the best models available in Europe. Not to stiff ??? With these bindings you do everything... under one condition-you need to hire a professional if you have no knowledge. And they not have any canting/lifting spare parts because everyone orders for themselves as much as you need ( this is a pro stuff). You need not use any glue, etc!!!!! If anyone used the glue to SW?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatoos Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Hi Stef-I checked with the polish dealer F2 -bindings Race or Intec Tittanium has a 1 pcs- lift for a couple and one set of pads to canting (4 pcs) in box. If you need a second lift must be ordered from a dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Canting pieces can be reverse stacked to create lift... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Kight Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Stef, According to my son, nose is 11.5 inches, where the tail is about 10 7/8 inches. Of course converting this to centimeters and figuring taper reveals a rather small number...not much compared to stock alpine models. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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