proper length and size for binding bolts

[hcw3]

So i am getting set up to try my new to me carving board this weekend and I realize that I don't have any mounting bolts for my bindings (oxygen branded snopro). It looks like they need to be a little longer than regular bolts as the 4x4 discs sit on top of the plates. Can anyone confirm or deny? Any idea what the proper length and size are? I've got a fastenal on my way home from work.

[hcw3]

54 views and no opinions?

I did some extended searching and I found a handy procedure for determining bottom length, but I was hoping someone could save me a little time and tell me the right length. I plan on using locktite blue and split washers, but I would love to see a pick of what is supposed to be used.

Thanks in advance.

Harrison

[jp1]

hcw3, I think the reason you haven't received a response is because depth sometimes varies depending on the inserts even within the same board manufacturer.

General 'rule of thumb' I have seen here often is to have at least 3 full threads of engagement.

Personally, I prefer the maximum thread engagement without bottoming out.

I measure the depth of all of the inserts (with a dial caliper) and note the shallowest one, then purchase a fastener the proper length without bottoming out in the insert ( I shoot for 2mm shorter than total depth).

If I determine I need a M6 x 1.0 x 11mm (length) and can only purchase a 12mm, I'll buy the 12mm and grind them to desired length (11mm).

Hint, screw a nut(s) on the threads first, before you cut or grind it to length.

Cutting/grinding the threads often mushrooms or distorts the threads at the very end of the fastener, making them hard to start straight and easy to cross thread, possibly stripping or ruining an insert.

If possible, grind a slight chamfer on the very end, the last thread is always the one most susceptible to being damaged when ground or cut.

When you back off the nut(s) they will help 'chase' the threads back to their proper configuration. Run the nut(s) on and off several times to make sure the threads are in good condition.

Also, I always run a Bottom Tap into all of the inserts (new or used) to make sure threads are clean and good.

Some will cringe, but I use a 'drop' of Loctite (Blue 242).

[lowrider]

I agree with above. If grinding isn't an option you could take up extra length by using a washer or two.

[hcw3]

Thank you. I never thought to measure, I just figured I'd use the same length as what usually came with the bindings.

thanks!

[scrutton]

yeah...I just had to do a set for an SG with a spacer plate. Screw one in, take your measurements...etc.

I used a Rotozip tool with a cutting disc to cut the bolt with a nut already threaded on. Once I spun the washer off and filed the end at an angle to clean it up I then ran a die through them. It doesn't take long to do all this.

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Photo from an original Snow Pro Owners Manual. Use at your own risk!!

Harrison, I would use caution if considering the cut or lock washers. I believe the bindings originally came with a simple flat washer. You will want to make sure the washer rests on the shelf of the binding mounting bolt hole properly. Not damaging the plastic. (a cut washer may gouge into it instead of laying flat) Good luck and have fun.

[Ear dragger]

Get yourself a cheap dial caliper. the bottom of it had a small pin so when you move the caliper, the pin comes down. you can measure the insert depth of the board. also with the other end of the tool, you can measure thickness of binding. you don't want to bottom out the threads, so get a couple of mm smaller. Mcmaster carr sells the hardware you need

of course you can do some guessing too. stick the screw thru the binding, see how much is sticking out the bottom, you need at least a couple of threads. you don't wanna strip the insert out