Base repair with clear sticks?

[tpalka]

I'm fixing a core shot on my powder board and was recommended to use the clear "techno" ptex sticks -- instead of the black ones I used in the past. The black ones were easy, I could hold them over a candle until they caught the flame, then slowly drip them in from 1/4 - 1/2" above the base. I tried the same approach with the clear sticks and they just don't hold the flame. I also got a small roll of clear ptex string that I tried melting in with my soldering iron, but that never melted properly.

I cleaned the base area with some mineral spirits to remove all wax, scraped it clean, any other prep I should do?

So how do I get the clear ptex, be it sticks or string, to melt properly?

Edit: PS, I bought these from http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html and was hoping to not have to buy the pistol too... the black techno sticks I used so far do melt over a candle...

[John E]

I've found that I can get the clear sticks to burn only if I hold them farther above the base. Then they generate soot in the melted ptex.

I would think the best way to fix a black base would be with black ptex.

[tpalka]

In my case the base is glowing pink (see avatar) but color matching doesn't bother me... I'll try your suggestion of holding the stick higher. Thanks!

[Kent]

Do you have a photo of the damage?

The short version is that PTEX is not base material. PTEX is a decent temp fix, but if you have a core shot or more than say....a nickel of damage, you'll need a more permanent fix.

Post a photo and I can try to solve via internet.

K

[eajracing]

i usually use a propane torch, and light it in the blue part of the flame. this also helps prevent any carbon bits and/or yellowing of the ptex as you drip it. Clean the gouge well with a razor, i will usually cut back some of the damaged base to get a nice clean surface. Finally - drip it along the top edge and let it run into the gouge - don't drip it right in as it will push itself out and cure concave. its tricky. even after all the years of doing it, its still tough to get it just right. i've become a big fan of the toko powder as a result for smaller cuts.

[boarderboy]

stick? If not, try using a case cutter to carefully slice a diameter cut through the candle about an inch long. Then turn the stick 90 degrees and do it again so that you have an inch-long, "four pie" section to ignite. Always used a butane lighter.

Been awhile, but it worked well for me.

BB

[John E]

That's what I like about this forum. Experienced advice for free.

[tpalka]

Ah, very interesting. I've only done very simple repairs, so I'm learning a lot here :)

I talked to Chris Prior about the damage, he offered to fix it but I wanted to avoid the shipping charges... He suggested the clear sticks.

Attaching the photo below.

[eajracing]

thats not a core shot!!! its just a flesh wound!!!!

make sure you cut the stringy bits off and clean it out real good. best of luck.

might be a candidate for toko powder.

[tpalka]

Great, thank you all for the help! I'm going to try the notching of ptex and lighting it with a creme-brulee-type torch. I'll also order some of the Toko Repair Powder -- that looks like a great product.

[Alaskan Rover]

Ummm...with today's harder bases, I have never had great luck getting P-tex to stick for very long, clear OR black. I mean, in a pinch, they will hold for a day or even a few days...but the p-tex ALWAYS pops in th end.

When I am needing to use P-tex, I use a low torch flame on it, and you basically have to keep applying the flame...(sorta like doing the old-fashioned leaded repair on a car fender instead of the new body-filler...but a lead amalgam IS far better for fender repair, IMHO). Anyway, yeah...the clear may have a little higher melting point then the black. If you keep a flame on the stick, you will get a LOT LESS of those carbon flakes making a cosmetic mess of your repair....plus that carbon does NOT add to adhesion.

ALSO, it is a good idea to warm up your board base as much as possible...this will create a better adhesion with the P-tex.

I took my board in to a local shop recently to get some "spring gouges" (sheeshh...how do you spell 'gouge' anyway...that doesn't look right!! I must be having a temporary stroke) repaired...they said they would make it look like new. A week and 45 bucks later, it was done. Two days later, all the professionally repaired gouges were back again, waving 'Hi' at me. I should have just done the repair myself for all the good that did me.

Gravity IS Life.

[John E]

For those unused to doing ptex repairs: When I was younger & doing a ski base repair, I dripped some flaming ptex on the back of my finger. WORST burn I ever got. Wasn't close enough to water to cool it down & couldn't wipe it off. Left a blister & hurt for months.

Be careful.

[slopestar]

I have had a lot of luck with the clear sticks. The trick I have used is to warm the base with a clean iron or even a small torch. WARM, not melting and be sure it is clean and deburred:nono:. Get the candle burning and use a metal pan or putty knife to roll/turn the still burning candle at a 45 degree angle against the metal. Be sure to keep the candle burning. Keep a lighter or torch handy. This rolling effect on the metal surface will get rid of the soot from the candle. Soot is VERY bad for adhesion...Quickly and carefully, get the candle to the wound. I will just place the pan or putty knife right next to the wound. Almost like welding, drip and push the candle gently into the wound and work your way 2 steps/drips forward, one drip/step back and so on...until filled. By keeping the candle burning and pretty much touching the base/wound the entire time. The further away from the base, the more likely to soot up. A nice blue flame is the key. Any tuners agree or have other advice? Hope this helps:o

[tpalka]

Thanks again -- great suggestions. I used a creme-brulee torch and was able to get the stick melting at a nice rate. I do have to keep the torch on to keep the candle burning... but the gouge is pretty thin. I'll see how things works out, and if it comes out then I'll try the putty knife trick to pack it in better. Got some Toko powder on the way too. Thanks everyone!

[slopestar]

Thanks again -- great suggestions. I used a creme-brulee torch and was able to get the stick melting at a nice rate. I do have to keep the torch on to keep the candle burning... but the gouge is pretty thin. I'll see how things works out, and if it comes out then I'll try the putty knife trick to pack it in better. Got some Toko powder on the way too. Thanks everyone!

putty knife is there just to roll off the soot from the candle. weld with the stick, don't drip it. certainly don't use anything to pack it in:nono:. weld it up and keep it warm and build up a continuous bead

[John E]

I'm guessing the welding analogy is pretty apt. If you just drip really hot plastic onto the really cold base, they won't melt together. By keeping the molten candle really close to the wound, the plasitc of the base should soften and promote adhesion.

[Alaskan Rover]

I'm guessing the welding analogy is pretty apt. If you just drip really hot plastic onto the really cold base, they won't melt together. By keeping the molten candle really close to the wound, the plasitc of the base should soften and promote adhesion.

That's exactly the key to these harder bases nowadays, John. Warm up your board base ANY way possible...the closer the base temp is to the melted P-tex temp the better the meld. And you are exactly right, Keeping the P-tex close to the base is equally important. I actually keep a low torch flame on the Ptex stick, as if I was soldering a circuit board. That seems to help at least for me, and seems to bypass some of the carbon formation.

I've got some BIG canyons to meld now....and have ONE last weekend of riding here in Virginia to prepare for (unless some drops a 'pot o' gold'

in my lap this summer and I am able to fly off to Chile or NZ or even Hood...any offers???...nahh? Didn't think so....waaahhhhhh!!), so I am definitely going to get the Ptex and torch out tonight! After the last fiasco, I don't quite trust the local board shop anymore....and there is only ONE for 100 miles around....so I am back to self-repair. AA for a board.;)

Bases USED to be hecka easier to repair...but one thing for a fact: these newer, harder bases take a LOT more of a licking BEFORE they need repair!!

Gravity IS Life.

[tpalka]

Right on -- and it's actually was I was doing, though I didn't explain it particularly well. I was getting a continuous melt off the candle and held it 1/4" or closer to the base. The base has been next to my water heater for a week, around 80F I'd guess. The fix looks good, the first run will tell the truth! Thanks again.

[Kent]

The PTEX won't last.

Do this (or have someone else do it):

http://www.slidewright.com/base_repair.php

[valsam]

I have a core shot exactly like the one in the above video i have tried all kinds of ptex material and the ptex keeps on cracking after a couple of rides so i keep on patching it up. I melt the ptex with a torch and fill in the gauge in layers but can't get it to drip in the blue flame because the flam is too close and it burns out so i drip it from higher up!

So why is my ptex patch so cracky and why is it that i can scrape it of even with my fingernails(as i mentioned i have tried all sorts of ptex even graphite ones and all crack and scratch of very easily)?

Is it because i dont burn it right and it looses it's structure?

Should i try welding it like the video above?

[carvedog]

This is a pretty good video tutorial

http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/ski-snowboard/bases-ski-snowboard/soldering-iron-base-repair/

oops sorry Kent, I guess I didn't read down far enough.

funny we were thinking of the same one or close anyway.

[Kent]

I have a core shot exactly like the one in the above video i have tried all kinds of ptex material and the ptex keeps on cracking after a couple of rides so i keep on patching it up. I melt the ptex with a torch and fill in the gauge in layers but can't get it to drip in the blue flame because the flam is too close and it burns out so i drip it from higher up!

So why is my ptex patch so cracky and why is it that i can scrape it of even with my fingernails(as i mentioned i have tried all sorts of ptex even graphite ones and all crack and scratch of very easily)?

Is it because i dont burn it right and it looses it's structure?

Should i try welding it like the video above?

PTEX and base material are completely different.....

PTEX is simply a quick home repair. To do it properly takes a bit of material and equipment.

See page I posted above.