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Does this make sense? Moving bindings rearward...


SWriverstone

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So all season long, I've been noticing that my tail frequently skids out in turns. A while back I realized it was because (I thought) I was riding too far forward, e.g. putting too much weight over the nose and not enough over the tail.

So I started to "get in the backseat" more, and move my weight to the rear. That made a big difference! Suddenly my tail was staying put throughout turns.

But...there was a problem: my rear leg started DYING. To keep my tail from skidding out, I had to shift my weight back so much it seemed like 80% of my weight was on my rear leg. After a few runs like this my rear quad was on fire and not happy at all.

So I had a small epiphany: why not just move both my bindings a notch to the rear? Seems like that should enable me to more evenly weight the whole edge, nose-to-tail, without having to kill my rear leg.

Does this make sense? (I'm gonna try it tonight.)

Only potential problem is...I can't remember which inserts I'm using now? (So don't know if there's another pair behind the ones I'm using...)

Scott

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This makes sense. What you've been able to accomplish with your body movements you should be able to also accomplish by moving your bindings back.

As long as your bindings aren't too far out towards the nose or the tail, tweaking your binding position is perfectly acceptable.

A good rule of thumb with bindings is to test one change at a time. Move the bindings back one position. You might find that you want to shift it back more. Or you might find you like it better where it was.

Try it out and if it doesn't feel comfortable then change it. That's what it's all about.

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are mounted with more setback than the usual 2 or so cm,usually, just moving the rear binding all the way back is good enough as I ride a fairly wide stance at around 21 inches .This enables me not only to shorten the effective edge contact when I want to but to drive harder into the nose when I want to.Depending on the board design I get the best of both worlds;short and long.The Diablo 210 that has been my favorite ride this year works fantastic this way.The only thing I sacrifice is the ease of toe to toe 180's while carving and 360's off lips where I normally pop off the nose to start the spin.The added setback hasn't stopped me from doing those tricks;they're just a little harder.

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So I started to "get in the backseat" more, and move my weight to the rear. That made a big difference! Suddenly my tail was staying put throughout turns.

But...there was a problem: my rear leg started DYING. To keep my tail from skidding out, I had to shift my weight back so much it seemed like 80% of my weight was on my rear leg. After a few runs like this my rear quad was on fire and not happy at all.

I had the same "A-HA!" moment, but in my case it was leaning forward, carving better, burning out my front quad, moving the bindings forward, and achieving nirvana. So, I say go for it.

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dont move BOTH bindings only the rear... trust me...

if you feel really sore on only one leg you are unbalance, if any leg should hurt more than another it should be the front on, but only slightly,

remeber this, just like a motorcycle/mtb bike.... front leg steering/front suspension

Rear leg suspension/balance.

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(Disclaimer: Maybe Im a freak)

I have found that 95% of all boards I have ridden ride best centered on the manufacturers stance. The only 5% that I have not followed this on are the dual purpose boards like the Donek Axis and Prior 4WD that have an extra set of rear inserts for powder. . .

I personally have found that if the nose or the tail is washing out in a turn, that more likely a small cant/lift adjustment took care of it while leaving me centered on the board where the smart guy who built the board thinks my weight should be. Those guys always seem to be smarter than me for some reason. . .

Im not saying DONT move your bindings. . . im just saying you might want to look at your cant and lift angles as well.

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One point I would make about this topic is that a rider should focus on moving the board below his body on the snow forward and backward on the radius of the turn vs. moving the body forward and backward over the board.

In essence I guess it is the push/pull theory to some extent. But even more so it is more focused on keeping your body in a good athletic powerful position while moving the board below your feet through the turn to move the pressure along the effective edge where it is needed. By focusing on this movement the pressures through the legs stay more constant, so you won't feel like your straining yourself to transfer that energy to the board.

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(Disclaimer: Maybe Im a freak)

I have found that 95% of all boards I have ridden ride best centered on the manufacturers stance. The only 5% that I have not followed this on are the dual purpose boards like the Donek Axis and Prior 4WD that have an extra set of rear inserts for powder. . .

I personally have found that if the nose or the tail is washing out in a turn, that more likely a small cant/lift adjustment took care of it while leaving me centered on the board where the smart guy who built the board thinks my weight should be. Those guys always seem to be smarter than me for some reason. . .

Im not saying DONT move your bindings. . . im just saying you might want to look at your cant and lift angles as well.

agreed, few exceptions. those exceptions are burners and madds

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You guys may be right---I might not mess with things after all. I had a stellar morning of carving at Whitetail (PA)...and conditions were epic---SUPERHERO snow---I couldn't lose an edge if I tried! :biggthump

So with such great conditions, I was carving great...but I'm not dumb enough to think my carving skillz are perfect (far from it!).

In fact, I got a PM from CarvingScooby with some excellent advice (thanks Scooby!). He asked if the problem was on my heelside (yes, it was) and suggested if so that the problem might be my rear knee facing too much toward the side of the board.

If my knee is facing more to the side of the board, then when I lower myself into the turn (on heelside) and bend my knee, it will push my toes down...leading to the deck being twisted (and the inside rear edge being pulled up/away from the snow).

So he suggested I drive my knee forward more in heelside turns. I tried this today, and it worked! (Well, at least I think it worked...though the hero snow might have had something to do with it, LOL).

But I'm certain that the combination of driving my rear knee forward more...along with pulling in toward the slope more *did* feel like it resulted in much better edge hold in the rear.

Now I just have to try it in crappy conditions. :rolleyes:

Scott

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