Running Length Calculation w/ Decambered Nose

[KevinS]

Hi,

I was wondering if the method of calculating the Running Length in the tech articles page (piece of paper slid under the board until stops) still applies to a decambered Nose. I just got a used Coiler VSR (so not built for me), and I noticed with that type of nose, the paper slides much further back then on my previous board, and questioned the 'paper' technique for finding the running Length.

I was trying to determine where to put my bindings. I ended up starting them out with the front bindings in the middle of the available mount points. But with my stance width (20"), this put my rear almost the whole way forward on the available rear mount points, and was concerned I may standing front of center.

Tonight I test it out...allen wrench is in my pocket :)

Thanks

Kevin.

[ShortcutToMoncton]

I think the answer is: it doesn't matter, but the "paper test" doesn't work any more.

Running length will probably actually be longer on that board than a comparable-length "traditional" board because when tilted on edge, the new upward curvature and blunt nose allow more edge to be engaged.

However, does running length really matter? Stuff like length, waist width, board stiffness and/or "build type" are all things you need to know about a board. Hey, perhaps even taper could be useful to know, although I think manufacturers will tell you that they automatically adjust this based on what type of board it is - so you can just go off that.

Stuff like running length? Meh, no one cares anymore. It's not like people are going to be comparing the running length of a Kessler/Prior/Coiler and making decisions based on that. With the new shapes I think it's the other stuff that's actually important.

On that note, just centre your bindings. I fooled around with them at first as well but Bruce said that the nose is longer with these new noses so the traditional "setback" doesn't matter any more. Oddly enough, he was right. :p

greg

[Corey]

100% agree. Center on the inserts and fine tune from there.

My Coiler Monster nose is around 10cm longer than the tail. That's measured from the widest point to the center of inserts.

[KevinS]

So do what I did, and center the front, and put my rear based on my stance width (which is almost all the way forward of the rear mounting points)...or center the entire stance over the 'mid-point' between the front and rear sets of mounting points (this would put my front binding slightly behind the center of the front mounting points, and the rear binding slightly in front of the center of the rear mounting points).

Thanks

Kevin.

[D.T.]

the "paper test" doesn't work any more...

just centre your bindings.

x3 - Bruce is designing specific flex characteristics into his boards. Mount your bindings centered on the inserts and you will reap the benefits of Bruce's R&D.

[KevinS]

Just wanted to say this Coiler VSR is amazing! What a difference over my first board. I still have to dial it in, get use to it, and of course keep getting my skills better so I can take full advantage of it.

I noticed it craves speed...it 'wants' to carve at a noticably higher speed then my first board, but its so damp that I don't feel the speed as much.

On the binding location, I think I am going to move them back a bit, centering the entire stance on the center location between the mounting holes, instead of centering the front and putting the back to match my stance. I thought it felt a bit too easy to initiate a turn at times, almost a little squirely, most noticeable at lower speeds in the flats. I will try moving back a little, if I don't like it, I can move it back where it was.

Thanks!

Kevin.

[Jack M]

The paper test now only tells you how much decamber your board has. The new proper way to decide stance positioning and setback is to measure from the widest points of the board. This is "effective edge". Definitely experiment, that is the only way to know for sure what you like. Stance positioning can change the ride of any board dramatically.

If you're still not sure, Beckman came up with a good test to see if you're standing in the right place - ride on a gentle slope with just your front foot in and traverse the hill. If the board tracks well and doesn't try to come around, you're in the right spot, iirc.

[Beckmann AG]

If you're still not sure, Beckman came up with a good test to see if you're standing in the right place - ride on a gentle slope with just your front foot in and traverse the hill. If the board tracks well and doesn't try to come around, you're in the right spot, iirc.

From the text...

"Where you mount your front binding will have a marked effect on how ‘neutral’ your board responds. For this reason, front binding location should be determined functionally, rather than geometrically. This location (on a given board) will vary based on rider weight, and to a lesser extent, binding angle. If the front binding is set too close to the tip of the board, the board will skid out easily on a heel-side turn, and feel quite twitchy in general. It will also be difficult to traverse heel-side one-footed, on shallow terrain, without the board spinning out. Unloading lifts may present a challenge. On soft or variable snow, the danger of ‘folding the nose’ is increased."

(This assumes that the front binding is not set up all foolish-like).

If you can then make simple arc to arc turns, one-footed, on the same pitch, then you are probably close. If the heelside turn comes around clean, but the toeside takes forever, you are either too far back, or one of the many other boot/binding parameters needs to be addressed. If these one-footers feel more or less balanced, then go find some steeper boiler-plate and verify with both feet in...

This works for me; your results may vary.

[lonbordin]

everyone gets the alpine version but me...:rolleyes:

l o n b o r d i n @ h o t m a i l . c o m