Corey Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 I bought a used metal Madd 170, it has a blemish on the nose (I knew that going in!). My best guess is that someone applied a sticker which, when removed, pulled the black 'paint' off the topsheet. Then they mistakenly tried to scrub the white off and rubbed through the top coating to the carbon fiber below in a couple spots. All scratches elsewhere expose the white layer under the top graphics. Any suggestions for how to fix the bare carbon spots? Do I even need to worry about sealing the carbon? Can I just use paint to seal it or do I need some kind of epoxy? I don't care about the aesthetics too much, I may spray-bomb the nose black or find a big sticker to cover it if it bugs me. Pictures (click for bigger versions): In this picture you can see the carbon texture clearly. The only exposed carbon is within the white area, specifically the upper right and upper left areas. ------------ Off-topic in my own thread: Thought it would be interesting to post some construction details on these fairly rare boards. It looks like any conventional board, except there is a fairly thick layer of aluminum (Titanal?) just above the edges and spanning from a few inches ahead of the front inserts to a few inches behind the rear inserts. Picture below, sorry I couldn't get it in focus but you get the idea. I can't see any other metal around the perimeter of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 corey, it's hard to tell from photo. Is the area in question low compared to the area around it? It appears to have been sanded and featheredged through the top layer of carbon fiber ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 The low areas are circled in red here, they're very subtle dimples through the white layer: The white area is about the same height as the black around it. The white area is just a little rougher than the black, like it was sanded. It looks like the topsheet is carbon, then the white coating on top of that, then black paint as the outer layer. The circled areas above have the paint and the white coating removed so you can see bare carbon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 It looks and sounds like an estetic issue? I don't claim to be a carbon fiber expert, but have done a fair amount of fiberglass work (auto). Do you have a local Body Shops that do fiberglass work you could show it to? I'm thinking a thin layer of Resin brushed over the area to fill the low spots and seal the fiber. Then wet sanded level / smooth, prime and paint. Problem is all of the materials you would have to buy (and such a small amount needed) for such a small 'quick' job. That's why I asked about a Body Shop, they would have materials. Heck they'll throw away more 'leftover materials' when doing even a small job than you'll need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapster Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 It does look like sealing it with the proper product (whatever that may be) might bring back a glossy, smooth, solid looking surface. With more minor abrasions, I've had some luck with rubbing compound-- and that still may work for feathering-in the edges of any repair work you do. As you suggested, paint would be a quick fix I wonder if a clear coat might work? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Everything but the circled bare carbon areas is completely aesthetic. I don't know enough about carbon/fiberglass to know if having them exposed to the elements is something to be worried about or not. I'd just as soon hit this with a can of automotive spraypaint if it won't cause any damage to the bare carbon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. T Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Time for a new sticker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 OK, so this is being picky..... The carbon is ok as long as there is good epoxy saturation..... If you can see it epoxy, it's good enough. The only thing that MAY be an issue is getting water in there and having it freeze. I share Mr T's idea....... New sticker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mellow Yellow Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 corey, I don't really see how just trying some paint would hurt. If it were me, I'd get a small can of Duplicolor (Laquer base if possible). Wash the area with soap and water, dry throughly, wipe area with compatable solvent, dry throughly, mask off the area and dust (very light coat) in on the area. Watch it for any signs of lifting, and let it dry 'throughly'. If OK, dust another thin coat on and let dry throughly. At that point if there are no negative signs of lifting or ends of the fibers raising, you shuld be able to put a medium coat of color on and let it dry throughly. Wet sand (scuff lightly) with 1000 / 1500 and apply the finish coat. Don't rush it, you won't be riding this week will you? Let everything dry throughly at warm temperature (heat lamp 3-4' away wouldn't hurt drying time). Sorry for stressing cleaning & drying (ex-body man). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 I'm lazy so I'd like to avoid epoxy and sanding if possible. :) Right, one minty-fresh Bomber sticker will do the job. If I get really industrious I'll paint the surrounding area too. That's a big if. Thanks gang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Well I was going to say, if you wipe a wet rag over the area, does it shine up like the surrounding area? If so, it may be a matter of it needing some more resin in the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. T Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 I wonder if you could do a thin layer of appropriate epoxy. Try a small test area of resin, warm the base and core with wax iron then and use a hair dryer or heat gun with caution, to get the goo to flow. Seems like at worst you would have a clear wavy area over the spot, sans wet finish and polish. Then you could put a nice b.o. sticker over the area. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Rub a little polyurethane on the bare area to seal out water and give some u.v. protection to the exposed epoxy. Just a little bit and wipe off any excess with a clean rag so you only leave the slightest film behind. When it dries, put your sticker over it and forget about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojogreen Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Tap Plastics has small cans of the epoxy you would want. Just make sure that the temperature you are doing it in is around 70-75 degrees otherwise it stays sticky and turns a yellow booger color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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