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any good 'ALPINE' searches on ebay?


bjvircks

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nope that one is not foam its full wood + white abs sidewalls ( i've seen one broken and never saw foam..but dang maybe that was a US only series? :)

the following year with near similar topsheet inspiration was foam... i remember because every racer around here complained about the change...then they kept foam + wood mix into the white and yellow lines..wood to foam switch= 7 euros savings for rossi, but the cost in image and reputation was way more ( but they did not think of this).

N

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nope that one is not foam its full wood + white abs sidewalls ( i've seen one broken and never saw foam..but dang maybe that was a US only series? :)

the following year with near similar topsheet inspiration was foam... i remember because every racer around here complained about the change...then they kept foam + wood mix into the white and yellow lines..wood to foam switch= 7 euros savings for rossi, but the cost in image and reputation was way more ( but they did not think of this).

N

hi BLUEB

i think NILS is correct. you must be thinking of the rossi THROTTLE with almost identical graphics. i also had a 167 throttle--it was great when new but the VAS foam core noodled out fast and was useless after about 20 days of hard riding.

my friend ANDY BONIFACE (snowboard director at mt. seymour) had a rossi VAS core ACCELERATOR back in the day also. i believe he had a similar experience as mine in that the VAS foam core broke down prematurely.

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I also always thought that move from white sidewalls to cap also ment change from wood to foam cores. Also, most of the people refer to the side wall one as the Throttle... I belive that the capped one had similar graphic but with "cloudy" texture in some surfaces.

Anyways, here are the photos of the cut up one. It is clearly visible it's a sidewalled one and that the core is 2 layers of different density foam.

.

post-1678-1418422860_thumb.jpg

post-1678-141842286002_thumb.jpg

post-1678-141842286003_thumb.jpg

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Fin's race carbon binding...

http://cgi.ebay.com/FINS-Race-Carbon-alpine-carving-snowboard-bindings-NR_W0QQitemZ270464180968QQcmdZViewItemQQptZSnowboarding?hash=item3ef8ebe2e8

Right now it's gone up to $51. For that price it's cheaper than buying 2nd board kit for TD2/TD3, and I recon Ibex heel and toe bails might fit into that binding.

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Fin's race carbon binding...

http://cgi.ebay.com/FINS-Race-Carbon-alpine-carving-snowboard-bindings-NR_W0QQitemZ270464180968QQcmdZViewItemQQptZSnowboarding?hash=item3ef8ebe2e8

Right now it's gone up to $51. For that price it's cheaper than buying 2nd board kit for TD2/TD3, and I recon Ibex heel and toe bails might fit into that binding.

Weren't there a lot of cases of those bindings pulling apart? I remember seeing pics of the carbon fibre in pieces. I'd be careful of those unless I was really light.

Blue, good looking board. How did you finish the edges? I'm guessing it would be too soft for an adult though.

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Weren't there a lot of cases of those bindings pulling apart? I remember seeing pics of the carbon fibre in pieces. I'd be careful of those unless I was really light.

they stand in pretty aggressive late-spring mogul riding under me (90kg) for 2 months. looks rather under-built, though - and heel-toe pieces need to be tightened regularly

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Hi Skategoat,

Do you recon 65kg is light enough? Thanks!

I'm no materials engineer but I think metal bindings are just a better idea for the stresses we put on them. If you need some cheap bindings, I have some SnoPro Race bindings that are all metal and plenty beefy. Not sure what they're worth but definitely under $100.

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that red R167 is the best board there is by far there...the last full sandwich made circa 95...Nils
I've just cut up one like that to make a mini longboard for my son. There's some unbelievable stuff inside... It's foam core, though.

You guys just like those red french ticklish things

I want that svelt black german board

(the seller won't ship it seems)

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Nils,

No wood at all.

Henry,

It's a very messy job. I used angle grinder for the straight cuts (you need it to go through the edges anyhow) and jig saw only for the curves. Grinder produces a lot of dust, but it's fast and the cuts are very straight and it doesn't require too much finishing. I finished off the curved cuts and the top edge with the spindle snder on the dremmel tool. Steel edges I ground off to totally blunt. Exposed core should really be sealed with resin, but for the amount of riding that Luka would do, it's fine unfinished.

There is a bit too much flex in the nose, even for Luka, so I'll end up moving the front truck a bit back.

Generally, the snowboards flex a bit too much for adult longboard. You have to use the central portion and relativelly short wheelbase. I might do another one out of the remaining part of Rossi to see how it would behave under my weight...

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