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Posted

I need to finish a deck in a dark violet base color, and top that with "shiny", gilt-like lettering. Then I need to apply a grip texture to the top that will still allow the "gold on purple" to have some visual impact.

Any suggestions? :eek::eek:

Thanks

BB

Posted

I'll chime in - I'm your personal consultant after all ;)

Use the spray finish instead of clear grip tape. Spray clear urethane coat, dust with a bit of silica while still tacky, let dry, spray 2nd coat of urethane. It works on boats, I dont see why it wouldnt on a skate...

Posted

Boris, I'm gonna give the spray poly with silica dusting a shot. I'm assuming the silica can be the sand blasting grit available hereabouts and previously recommended (?) I have a small compressor - do I need to get an air-brushing set-up for the urethane, or is there suitable "canned" polyurethane spray available?

I await your consulting fee!

SD, if I flop with the poly, I already have some clear grip on hand and will go with that. Nice stuff.

But really - the "late 80's" as golden olden days??! My boy, you have no idea about real antiquity ... sigh...

May you both luxuriate in mounds of light powder this coming year...

Cooler, these days, in Possum's Pouch ...

BB

Posted

Ask this guy what he uses for clear grip tape.

Appear to be great boards, too. Would appreciate any feedback on how you like your new "Red" - tech specs, too - # of plies, veneer type, etc.

Again, many thanks and good surf to you!

BB

Posted

most people use Tread Tex or similar anti-skid paint additive....I could never find Tread Tex but the Behr anti-skid that I did use works quite well. A friend who builds fabric topped skateboards grinds clear glass until it's the same fine consistency and uses that as an additive

Posted

Note, this is an LDP board (for pumping, he makes other boards too)

the specs from the site are:

Length - 37"

Width - 10 1/8"

Wheelbase - 26 1/4", 27 1/8", 27 7/8"

9 ply BBB Grade Baltic Birch

Gripped with GALAC grip clear grip system

These specs are for 120-190lbs rider.

It can have an acrylic gloss applied to it. I don't know the other specs but I know there's multiple coats of it. A board can take over 6 weeks to make (mine took more) due to the multiple curing periods required.

It'll have a Bennett Vector 5.0 in front (wedged about 15*) with a Tracker RT/S in the back (dewedged about 7*), both with risers, with 'Otangs In Heat purple for wheels.

Posted

the specs from the site are:

That's about as detailed as you can get. Sounds like this guy is a very knowledgeable craftsman. Please post a review when you've ridden your new board a bit!

BB

Posted
A friend who builds fabric topped skateboards grinds clear glass until it's the same fine consistency and uses that as an additive

That's really intriguing. Do you know how he does it?

As I think about the variety of wine and beer bottle colors, it would seem this has a lot of possibilities.

Does he round the edges of the glass particles (via a gem tumbler with fine abrasive or something) or would rounded edges defeat the purpose?

Many thanks

BB

Posted

It'll have a Bennett Vector 5.0 in front (wedged about 15*) with a Tracker RT/S in the back (dewedged about 7*), both with risers, with 'Otangs In Heat purple for wheels.

At least on narrower bennetts, you'll find 15* to be a bit much wedge. I have one that is a stock 4.3 and also another thats been cut down to closer to 4. LDP & slalom respectively.

Posted
At least on narrower bennetts, you'll find 15* to be a bit much wedge. I have one that is a stock 4.3 and also another thats been cut down to closer to 4. LDP & slalom respectively.

I rode my BV's (100 mm wide) at +5 degrees for slalom, and 0 (flat) for GS. More than that and they are behaving almost like a backwards reverse kingpin truck.

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