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It's the very last thing I need...


crazyTKDsquirrel

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but I'm really getting interested in mountain biking. I've seen that some of you are into this scene. Maybe you guys could help me out? I know practically nothing about frames, suspension, etc. I'm looking for something that would be good on mtn trials as well as something I can use on campus (lots of uphills).

Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? I've seen that these bikes are usually priced around 5-700 dollars plus. I'm not planning on getting anything soon, so I've got plenty of time to look.

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but I'm really getting interested in mountain biking. I've seen that some of you are into this scene. Maybe you guys could help me out? I know practically nothing about frames, suspension, etc. I'm looking for something that would be good on mtn trials as well as something I can use on campus (lots of uphills).

Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? I've seen that these bikes are usually priced around 5-700 dollars plus. I'm not planning on getting anything soon, so I've got plenty of time to look.

At that price point you will not get a bike with a good frame and good components and suspension, unless you go used (which I wouldn't recommend). But you can get a rigid (no suspension) 29'r (road bike sized wheels). Something like this one from GT (these go on ebay for 5 bills pretty regularly, last I checked). A rigid bike is going to have fewer maintenance issues, and they work just fine for having some fun on the trails.

I wouldn't go lower than Deore (shimano) or X7 (SRAM) components. Everything else isn't durable enough to hold up off road. At this price point, components being equal, frames are gonna be about the same too. Fit is more important than the frame material or weight. Get a bike that fits you so it's fun.

For a "real" full suspension bike with modern suspension tech and good components, expect to pay $1200+++ (sweet spot re bang for the buck is right around $2K IMHO).

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Oh and it's far from the last thing you need. With a good bike, a car and a gym membership are the last things you need.

I'm using my bike more and more - for transpo and for fitness. With Possum Pouch summer's 90'ish highs and 90 + % humidities, it doesn't take long to work up a serious sweat and to lose some serious weight! (Some of this is because my son and his FatBoy BMX have become inseparable in a very short time frame!!)

Good stuff!

BB

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Damn...I wish I had $1,200 layin' around.

I've also seen some online discount stores such as Bikes Direct:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm?gclid=CPKRjoTJ75oCFQkzawodHQ8BIw

Would this be a smart way to go about buying a new MTB, or do you guys tend to opt for an in-store purchase?

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Oh and it's far from the last thing you need. With a good bike, a car and a gym membership are the last things you need.

Amen.

I ride my bike to work in the summer time. I do not pay for a gym membership or work out. I do not pay for a car. I do not pay for public transportation. The best thing about it is getting to work faster than you can by car/train/bus/taxi (in NYC anyway) and having fun doing it.

Bikes are the shiz!

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but I'm really getting interested in mountain biking. I've seen that some of you are into this scene. Maybe you guys could help me out? I know practically nothing about frames, suspension, etc. I'm looking for something that would be good on mtn trials as well as something I can use on campus (lots of uphills).

Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? I've seen that these bikes are usually priced around 5-700 dollars plus. I'm not planning on getting anything soon, so I've got plenty of time to look.

that budget will get you a servicable new rigid single speed 29'er, or even a serviceable used geared Hardtail.

Like has already been said, expect a new "good" full S bike that can handle mtn trails to set you back at least $1200 to $1500 with a "better" bike quadrupliling your budget.

if your serious about riding it around campus, I recommend the economy ss 29'er with a kryptonite lock route.

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Damn...I wish I had $1,200 layin' around.

I've also seen some online discount stores such as Bikes Direct:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm?gclid=CPKRjoTJ75oCFQkzawodHQ8BIw

Would this be a smart way to go about buying a new MTB, or do you guys tend to opt for an in-store purchase?

This is one of those "do as I say not as I do" things because I'm the king of buying bikes online. For a first bike, there's a lot of value to buying from a well regarded local bike shop (LBS) over on online retailer or big box like REI/Scheels/etc. A good local shop (and you'll have to ask around because there are surely bad ones too) will give you good advice in bike setup. Lots will even switch out seats and stems to get you properly fit, sometimes even after you've ridden the bike a bit. And they will also maintain the bike for a time after the sale. Hopefully they'll even take your hand a bit and teach you about maintenance too.

The stuff on bikesdirect is really an incredible value (and I'd love to get one of those single speed 29'ers for $349), but they aren't there to maintain or set the bike up for you and they aren't there to make sure you get the right size. Those two things can make a great value a blown purchase.

So why do I get bikes online or mailorder? Back in the day I worked at a shop. I've got the tools and I think I know what I'm doing as far as setup goes. And I've been riding long enough to know what size bike I ride.

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Amen.

I ride my bike to work in the summer time. I do not pay for a gym membership or work out. I do not pay for a car. I do not pay for public transportation. The best thing about it is getting to work faster than you can by car/train/bus/taxi (in NYC anyway) and having fun doing it.

Bikes are the shiz!

+1. Lots of my friends are apalled at the thought of riding "in traffic." But really that's half the fun. There's a jedi element to mixing it up with cars even out here in BFE NV. I'd imagine pedalling the streets of Manhattan can be a real hoot.

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...The stuff on bikesdirect is really an incredible value (and I'd love to get one of those single speed 29'ers for $349), but they aren't there to maintain or set the bike up for you and they aren't there to make sure you get the right size...
and they aren't there to offer a demo ride.

and they aren't there to offer advise based on local trail experiance.

and, etc., etc. etc.

well, you get the idea

a just like with buying boarding equip, a 'newbe' NEEDS a 'local-hookup' that can help decide what your needs really are. Now that 'local-hookup' can be a friend who is a bike enthusist, or a well recommended LBS (local Bike shop), but rest asured, without a bit of research & a local hookup you'll be increasing your odds of making that great on-line value a blown purchase.

:lurk:

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I can't see any problem with buying a used MTB "IF" you have someone who knows what they're looking for in a used bike to give you advice. If not, you can end up dropping a lot of money on something with shot suspension or a dying drivetrain - the things that are stupidly expensive to fix. But if you have half a clue, then there's some great deals to be had used. Hardcore MTB'ers tend to offload stuff all the time.

I bought a Kona Blast new last summer (on the recommendation of the lovely Kurt/bigcanuck - who has forgotten more about bikes than I wil ever know). It's a great bike for pounding around town, light, sturdy, and I rode some trails with it last year without too much drama.

The only problem is that this stuff gets to be addictive. All my winter riding crew are mountain bikers, as are two of the guys I work with - the same two who are talking me into buying Jason's Kona Dawg because Jason is taking all the parts from Steve's Anthem to kit out his Santa Cruz frame. See how this works?

(Kurt will be laughing his a$$ off when he reads this - because he told me so :-P)

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I went to the local bike shop yesterday and found a KHS full suspension. Here's a link with specs:

http://www.khsbicycles.com/03_xc_004_07.htm

It's only 700 (under 1200), but as far as I could tell from the reviews (quite a few of them), it's a good entry-level full suspension MTB. I won't be doing any hardcore trail riding, just mostly XC and campus riding, so the cheaper components won't be bothering me too much. Eventually I may want to upgrade to air shocks, better rear susp., 8" disks, etc. or just get a new (and better) bike.

The thing to keep in mind for myself is that I can't afford to be spending much more than that right now. I'm bracing myself for my 3rd semester in college and a 1200 bike is out of the question. And the thing I forgot to mention, I may be able to get this bike for under 500 (after haggling). My bike shop has it priced at $535, so obviously, it's more friendly to my wallet.

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Bikes are almost never worth upgrading... the best bang for the buck comes at the initial purchase. It just won't make sense two years from now to put a $300 fork on a used $500 bike. You'd be better off selling the current bike and getting a new one.

Full suspension bikes are awesome, but they are also maintenance hogs. There are a lot of bearings, bushings and moving parts. All those little parts wear out, and so do the shocks. Cheap ones wear out faster.

Especially when you don't really know much about bikes, the chances of a lower end full suspension bike turning into a squeaky creaky hunk o junk are pretty high.

A rigid (no suspension) bike on the other hand is lighter and doesn't have all those moving parts. So they can generally be kept running well year after year. Or go single and REALLY have low maintenance. This one ($350 mailorder) is cheap enough that even if you hate it you could probably re-sell it for $300 on your local craigslist.

outcast29_600.jpg

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Throughout the near daily riding I've put on my Raleigh XXIX Singlespeed in the past year, I've only replaced the chain and tires due to wear. However, I've managed to kink an Easton EA30 seatpost and bend the free replacement one back about 4 degrees. Strangely enough, my WTB saddle is still straight and true.

The Outcast comes with both 42 and 33 tooth chainrings; you can buy another chain and size it for the smaller chainring and swap between the "commuter" setup and the lower geared mountain drivetrain. The 42/18 setup may actually be a bit fast for campus riding, I couldn't imagine spinning out my 33/20 around gobs of pedestrians. Nevegals are gonna be heavy and slow for pavement riding, but that doesn't matter.

Bash it until something breaks, and let it be an upgrade because of the fact the new part works.

The only things I've added are clipless pedals and tubeless tires, which are a necessity down here. Between the cacti, thorny chaparall brush, and hypodermic needles littering the trails, it's a pain in the ass to change tubes all the time.

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