Base Scrapers and Sharpening

[rhaskins]

I have a whole clutch of scrapers in various state of dullness. I just keep acquiring new ones, and ocassionally I set a file flat on a workbendh and attempt to sharpen one. They sharpen up, but it does not appear that they are necessarily "square".

What brands of scrapers do you all use, and are some better than others? How do you sharpen them?

I use Swix and Dakine plastic scrapers. I have one metal scraper that is sharp and square, but I only use it for special occassions, like a new moon & etc.

Help please. This is getting somewhat expensive. I'm cheap.

Rick

[KingCrimson]

I just bring my Dakine to school, and use a vertical disc sander. Since it has the guide, it stays pretty square. Smells TERRIBLE though.

[MUD]

Drywall sanding screen. Lay it on a flat surface and drag the scraper across it (perpendicular) until it is sharp. Check to make sure it is still flat afterward. You will trash one figuring it out, but after that it works well.

A mill with a fly cutter is also acceptable.

[martyagt4]

I use my edge tuner set at 90 degrees, works well for me.

[rhaskins]

MUD: I'll get right on that mill with flycutter. Shouldn't cost too much . .

I'm perpendicular angle estimating challenged, so I am looking for an easy method of setting a 90 degree angle along the entire edge that is straight. Getting the edge sharp is the easy part, keeping it straight for 10 inches or so is a lot harder. I have looked at the SWIX ($35) and the Toko ($45) scraper sharpners. They would pay for themselves in the long run I guess.

Marty: I have fixed angle edge tuners, SVST fixed angle, none at 90 degree. I'd have to purchase another at about $31.

The fly cutter would be the truest tho. SlideWright has one of these that would do the job nicely:

http://www.slidewright.com/proddetail.php?prod=MT0716

Rick

[Allee]

Drywall sanding screen. Lay it on a flat surface and drag the scraper across it (perpendicular) until it is sharp.

This is what I use, but I attach mine to a pole sander head, which is flat (or should be) lay the scraper on a cutting board and 'sand' it. Works great. I clean all the wax off with citrus cleaner first and then sharpen it up.

[Mike T]

I got the thick plastic SVST scrapers, they've stayed sharp enough over the years.

[KingCrimson]

I clean all the wax off with citrus cleaner first and then sharpen it up.

Women :rolleyes:

Actually, what can't you clean on a snowboard with that stuff? Gets the dirt off your base when it's dry, keeps your topsheet squeaky clean, keeps your boot shells nice. It's good stuff.

[Pat Donnelly]

You should try http://www.alpineskituning.com/raysway.waxwhiz.htm

save on electricity, wax and eliminate the need to scrape

[rhaskins]

I am also hoplessly conformist to what everyone else is doing. Actually, I have heard of ray's way (raysway) before, just have not taken the time to investigate.

Thanks,

Rick

[Thor VonRippington]

http://www.racewax.com/product/RC-3675/Swix_Sharpener_for_Plexi_SkiSnowboard_Wax_Scrapers__RC3675.html

I've had good success with this sharpener

You need a small stiff brush (like something you would use to clean dishes in the sink) to keep the grooves clean

mounts to your bench

Does not work for metal scrapers

[philfell]

I have a block of wood with a panzer file recessed and screwed to it and another block of wood screwed on top to act as a guide. This works great. Keeps scrapers shapre square and most importantly true. They do sell scraper shapreners, but these tend to dish out the middle of the scraper over time.

Swix products for me.

[rhaskins]

I just thought of that same thing last nite, no time to try it out yet.

Thanks

Rick

[Fastskiguy]

You should try http://www.alpineskituning.com/raysway.waxwhiz.htm

save on electricity, wax and eliminate the need to scrape

Yeah, since I made the switch I haven't used my scrapers at all. I do like to hit it with the rotobrush so I can't say I save electricity.

[philfell]

The boards I've seen that product used need to be re-wax-wizarded just about every run. And tend to get edge burn super fast.

We call it the wac wizard.

[bschurman]

6" delta jointer. It'll give you a perfect 90*, super sharp and fast to boot.

[Fastskiguy]

The boards I've seen that product used need to be re-wax-wizarded just about every run. And tend to get edge burn super fast.

We call it the wac wizard.

That is just totally the opposite that happened to me! I had trouble with base burn with hot wax and virtually none with the wac wizard. Funny...I wonder why we have such opposite results??

But hey, I used the belt sander on my scrapers back in the day and they did an "OK" job but not great.

[philfell]

Have you tried hot waxing and the wac whizard on the same board?

Also have you tried any glide test between known bases using the wac whizard?

Also different waxes have different melting points, sometimes the melting point is actually higher than the melting point of the base material (the new super cera is an example). Also if some waxes are exposed to too much heat it harms the additives in that particular wax. With the wax whizard there is no way to control the temp.

Plus do you actually think that the base is getting heated up enough to open the pores to absorb the wax?

[Fastskiguy]

My understanding is that you use pressure to push the wax into the base, not heat. And the "pushed in wax" followed by the rotobrush has made my stuff seem to run very fast. All I know is....fast and no base burn with the wac whizard for me. I'm not trying to convert anybody....just sharing my experience. I admit I miss the smell of hot wax!

Have you tried hot waxing and the wac whizard on the same board?

Also have you tried any glide test between known bases using the wac whizard?

Also different waxes have different melting points, sometimes the melting point is actually higher than the melting point of the base material (the new super cera is an example). Also if some waxes are exposed to too much heat it harms the additives in that particular wax. With the wax whizard there is no way to control the temp.

Plus do you actually think that the base is getting heated up enough to open the pores to absorb the wax?

[PolyMathMan]

To sharpen a metal scraper, google "sharpen Cabinet scrapers".

It is something I learned early in woodworking. First you true up the scraper, then you use a bit of hard steel to "turn an edge".

This will make the scraper quite sharp, and I use it to both true up the bottom and after waxing.

[Hans]

I use a Toko base sharperner tool which has different widths for different thickness' of base sharpeners. Cost me about EUR 25.-- or something. Does the job well within seconds.

[cail]

http://www.racewax.com/product/RC-3675/Swix_Sharpener_for_Plexi_SkiSnowboard_Wax_Scrapers__RC3675.html

I've had good success with this sharpener

+1 ...works great

[Mike T]

I too have found less edge burn using the wax whizard... but let me explain exactly what I am doing. First of all I should state that I am waxing for recreational riding and not racing. And even when I race I can assure you that when I lose it's not because I didn't wax optimally :) So protection of the base and general good board behavior are why I am waxing and not a few hundredths of a seconds of speed on a course.

I am ironing in base prep whenever I acquire a board (or clean one in the spring). After that I scrape, brush, then Whizard on a temp-specific wax and brush again. I am doing thi in Mike DeSantis's (SkiMD) recommendation, he says that unless you know exactly what temp a colder-temp wax needs to be you're more likley to have it crack after its been applied which is what leads to base burn on so many skis and boards. I'll repeat the "Whizard on temp-specific wax" each day I ride, and if I notice any base burn, poor glide, or anything else undesirable, next time I iron in base prep again.

I'm using SVST Ultra Wax... I use the "warm" yellow as a base prep and then medium, cold, or very cold (red, blue, purple) over that using the whizard. Sure there are better waxes out there but this stuff is very economically priced when you buy the 10 oz sticks, very easy to apply (especially the yellow*) and (see below) more than good enough for my usage.

Phil - I am sure that if I glide tested versus what you do, your job would glide better every time. But my way is, I think, more than good enough for the type of riding I do... my boards behave nicely, they glide very well on the flat runouts at Bachelor and Mt Hood Meadows, and when I hit something and look at my base, the damage is usually not as bad as I though it would be.

*I tried Dominator's base prep. That stuff is very sticky and messy and hard to work with! I am sure it works well for high end use, but I don't have the patience for it, and in April / May anything I layer on top of it just comes right off.

[SEJ]

Router, pattern bit, (One with the guide bushing on top), and a straight edge. About two seconds per side to do it.