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UPZ boots?


cb0y1

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I had a full write-up on how to tee-nut them - but I can't seem to find it...

edit: it seems to have disappeared into cyber-oblivion. I heard stories about toe sepration in testing, so I asked around and basically drilled out the threads, inserted a stainless steel tee-nut, and used stainless steel screws to re-fix the heel & toe blocks. Pretty easy but takes some time to gather all the parts and some of the tee-nuts are hard to get into place.

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Mine hasn't come off but after checking the torque on the mount screws and only finding them screwed into plastic, then seeing the write up on the bomber website I began to wonder if it is something I should really worry about, http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/product_warning_1_17_06.cfm is where I found the info. I would really be interested in that article on t-nutting it so if you find it Tex I would really like to see a parts list.

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Boink!

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=21025&highlight=nut

Without discussing all of the issues related to these boots...

McMaster-Carr is your friend. Here's what you will need:

UPZ012.jpg

(note - I couldn't find a stainless steel metric tee-nut anywhere - Zinc Plate should be ok since it's on the inside of the boot and probably not getting as much salt/grime - But if anyone knows where to find them in stainless please let me know)

98965A310 Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Tee Nut M6 Internal Thread, 9mm Barrel Height, 4 Prong, Packs of 100 $14.80

92095A238 Metric 18-8 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 Size, 16 mm Length, 1 mm Pitch, Packs of 25 $6.66

93475A250 Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M6 Screw, 6.4mm ID, 12mm OD, 1.4-1.8mm Thickness, Packs of 100 $3.14

2958A135 General Purpose HSS Jobbers' Twist Drill Bit Black Oxide, 8.7mm Sz, 125mm L O'all, 81mm L Flute $5.82

If you're Just doing Heels, you need 8 tee-nuts, screws, and washers. Heels & toes - 16

Get a few extra in case threads lock up or tee nut teeth break (they will...)

Also, Get a few shorter screws M6 x 12 or M6 x 10 - depending on which hole, a couple of the screws are just a little too long.

1} Remove the stupid plastic anchored screws with your #3 Philips head:

UPZ017.jpg

2) Drill Holes in your Brand New $450 boots (Mrs Tex was NOT happy with this step)

UPZ019.jpg

UPZ018.jpg

3) With the heel/toe unit OFF, Place the tee-nut inside the boot over one of the holes and crank it down (use the washers - don't want to run the screw head straight through the bottom of the boot) - this should lock the prongs into the plastic.

4) remove screws and install heel/toe unit - I am using Locktite Blue on the screws.

UPZ029.jpg

5) remember that your new boots have a MUCH shorter sole length than your old boots - adjust bindings accordingly.

Finished Product:

UPZ022.jpg

UPZ023.jpg

UPZ024.jpg

That should explain it!

Good luck.

I have to do the same thing before the season starts...

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I use Intec heels, held in with T-nuts. I left the stock screws on the toe piece as I don't believe there's much stress up there with the Intec setup. And if they do let go (which, if it was going to happen, would have happened by now), the heel piece will still hold the boot in.

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I'm riding with my second pair since a year. I went on over 200 days with my first one. Never had problem with them, beside breaking a teeth portion twice while walking with opened clips. Easily replaced, since those are bolted, not riveted.

I used mainly TD2 and lately F2 as bindings

Seb

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