Gtanner Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Hi All, I'm looking at getting into some road biking...but also have some trails around our house that I'd like to hit once in awhile (not single track, gravel wooded trails). Does anyone have any experience with cyclocross bikes (or converted road bikes)? I'm hoping to spend <$1000 if at all possible, but was wondering if this would be a good choice for a beginner. Primary ride would be road with the odd trail (say 60-40). Thoughts? Recommended brands? -Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 A cyclocross bike sounds ideal for the riding you described. Check out a Kona Jake, and Jake the Snake. Be sure to get a reasonably long test ride on anything you consider buying to make sure it fits. You spend a lot of time sitting in the saddle just grinding on a road bike and minor fit issues can become a big pain in the ass. Good luck, have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 + 1 on the Kona Jake the Snake. I would also suggest cyclocross models made by Rocky Mountain Bikes, Surly, Redline, and Trek. If you're going to ride in a lot of rainy weather and mud, then disc brakes would be a good upgrade too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 on the Jake the Snake. Jake got the nice upgrade from Sora 8 sp to Tiagra 9 sp for 2008. Tricross from Specialized is nice if your looking for a "do it all" bike (commuting, light touring etc) Cannondale X6, probabbly the nicest frame out of all mentioned so far in the CAAD 9. I have a Scott cross bike and a 2006 Optimo Cannondale cross bike. The Cannondale has been incredible. Scott hot hot rodded and rides SWEET. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 I never rode one, but another vote goes for the Kona Jake or Jake the Snake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Prokopiw Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 No disagreement with what I've seen posted here,but the most bang for the buck that I've seen, and perhaps the most experience in the price range would be Redline.A complete, very competetive bike can be had from them for that budget.Also,since most non-American made brands are made in the same factories in Asia,Motobecane (usually made in Taiwan by Kinesis who makes many other brands)has a couple of sellers on ebay that have killer frame/fork prices to build up from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I'm nervous about a build, more looking for a all-in-one bike. Thanks for the advice guys. Also peddals, road or mtb?? how much should I be budgeting for these extras (thinking around $200 for helmet and pedals)... Keep the thoughts coming, it's appreciated. -Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 You have more shoe options and you don't have to worry about falling on your a$$ when you put your foot down at a light. Check preformance bikes for helmets, shoes and pedals, there are deals to be had, but support your LBS for your bike purchase. I second the redline, great entry level bikes reasonably priced. Upgrade to discs if you are going to ride any steeper stuff offroad, much easier to stop and you dont have to worry about heating up the rims and popping a tube mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Shimano 520 MTB pedals. $50.00 maybe US...? Super adjustable, durable, clip in both sides. The source, bar none. Track record forever... Buy a complete bike. frameset, then parts = you paid WAY TOO MUCH. Once again, my $0.02. K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I happen to be of the huskier variety (210lbs), should I be worried about wheels and spoke spacing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoe Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 I talked to my dad, who logs about 7000 miles a year on his bikes, he got into cyclocross a few years ago, and knows way more about it than I do; hope this helps ... A few things off the top: Cyclocross bikes are built similar to road bikes and have handlebars and brake/shifters like road bikes. They are built for fairly light off road surfaces - trails, dirt roads, grass, and not for heavy duty single track, rocks, or drops. Cross bikes have tires that are about half the width of mountain bike tires, and tires that work well on roads do not work great on dirt and visa versa. Ride with very low profile tires so you can go reasonably fast on pavement and still have some traction off road. He might be better off with a couple of sets of wheels and then spend one day mostly on road, and with a knobby set, go mostly off-road on another day. All the major bike manufacturers have seen an explosion in demand for cross bikes and now have models. Redline makes decent bikes at good prices. So does Independent Fabrications at higher prices. Go with the clipless pedals, Shimanos with dual entry are great. So are Crank Bros. p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Prokopiw Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I meant to mention that the team I road race on has several cross racers and all of them use Crank Bros Eggbeaters.They all say that those are the best fro shedding mud and are easy in /easy out.I am hoping to make this fall my first season of racing cyclocross, but already love riding a cross bike on the hundreds of miles of smooth dirt we have here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronG Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 Ihave a Jamis Nova cyclocross, use it for commuting and light trail riding, great bike for the $$$$. I am totally pleased with the ride quality being that it is built with Reynolds 631 steel, it weighs just a touch more than an aluminum frame but the ride quality is outstanding, then again, I own a few steel mtn bike hardtails. No aluminum in my stable!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 Could someone point the issues with Aluminum vs Steel...is it just that Steel is tougher and harder?? In my mind I'd think aluminum is lighter. thoughts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I like steel bikes...I went through a batch of Cdales in the late 80's and it was both annoying and in one case painful (snapped the rear triangle in a crit race). After that I decided that light weight wasn't worth the risk. When I rode the 24" class for 2 years in Hawaii I saw a lot of broken aluminum frames. Though I have bent and cracked a number of steel frames I've never snapped one. These days there really isn't that much of a weight difference between a high end steel frame and a high end aluminum frame (yes I know carbon and Ti are much lighter but also waaaay more expen$ive). Steel flexs more and has a damper ride, Al is stiffer and, provided it stays in one piece, accelerates much better. These days many AL bikes roll with carbon forks for dampening road noise. Steel has to be painted and cleaned after dirty wet rides, aluminum doesn't because corrosion isn't much of an issue. Aluminum sounds cool when you are riding it. If it were my choice I would buy a Surly Cross Check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 Aluminum has a higher strength to weight ratio than steel and a much higher volume to weight ratio than steel. These two characteristics make it easier to build a frame that is lighter and stiffer out of aluminum. There is quite alot that can be done with tube shape, wall thickness, and frame geometry to tweak the ride characteristics of a bike frame, but in general: Aluminum = Light & Stiff. Stiff = good power transfer, chattery, and uncomfortable. Steel = Heavy & Supple. At the low end, these differences are dramatic. As you spend more money on a frame, they almost completely disapear. (in general, there are exceptions) My road bike is steel (frame and fork), my mountain bike is Aluminum, my cruiser is steel. They are all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I went through a batch of Cdales in the late 80's and it was both annoying and in one case painful (snapped the rear triangle in a crit race). After that I decided that light weight wasn't worth the risk. C-dales are crap. The only thing they've got going for them is a good marketing campaign. They do deserve props for the old Beast of the East. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 C-dales are crap. The only thing they've got going for them is a good marketing campaign. They do deserve props for the old Beast of the East. 3 frames in 3 months then I bought an Oschner frame/fork...I wish I still had that one it was a beauty I think my next bike is going to be a Steamroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave* Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Check out the Norco CCX series, I opted for the CCX 1 just because it had the Avid cable operated discs. ( I am not a fan of rim brakes of any kind) They also make a higher gruppo version but it has canti brakes, I believe actual disc brakes not legal for Cylocross racing, rules may have changed by now? Also looked at were Lemond, Devinci,KHS, and a few Italian brands of which brands I cant remember. I am really liking the cross bike for around town with a set of platform pedals. Dave* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I believe actual disc brakes not legal for Cylocross racing, rules may have changed by now?Dave* yes they have changed...for the worse now if you get caught training on a cyclocross bike that has disk brakes you are banned from all cyclocross competition:p It’s rule #1.3.025, and you can find it here on the top of page 67 in the massive 81-page UCI rule book titled Part I: General organisation of cycling as a sport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 The UCI has its head up its butt. Our local series allows discs, and I raced a UCI race with them but since im not in it for points it didnt matter and they let me race any way, if they could justify it it might make sense....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Why the hell would they care what you train on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Why the hell would they care what you train on? seems rather bizarre to me...there was a joke on a bike forum about cyclocross riders sneaking off to 3rd world countries to ride bikes with disk brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 So if they get caught on their day off with a downhill bike they get penalized? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Most pro racers wont use them just due to weight. For us duffers, I might use the same bike for commuting (I happen to have 2 CX bikes) as racing and I happen to like disc brakes so why not? I have heard safety as an issue, but why are Cross racers so much more fragile than Cross Country racers with Disc brakes in a mass start event? Several years of tradition un-impeded by progress and technology. FWIW, I have 2 CX bikes, Kona Jake the Snake with a Wound up Front fork, a mix of beat up Durace, LX and Paul brakes, Kore Wheels (again cheap) and it is my "A" bike. My other dual duty is a Soul Cycles Monk (pit bike) with BB7 road discs and it is currently my road bike as well. I like to be able to ride to some local dirt and not have to worry about hurting the bike. Most high level riders ore on Tubulars so they can run lower pressures for traction. Personally, Im lazy and dont like the hassle or feel of the tubulars so the tires I like are the Hutchinson Pro Series or Michelin muds. Be careful because tire widths can vary from maker to maker. Also, the Jamis is a nice ride for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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