tex1230 Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 Without discussing all of the issues related to these boots... McMaster-Carr is your friend. Here's what you will need: (note - I couldn't find a stainless steel metric tee-nut anywhere - Zinc Plate should be ok since it's on the inside of the boot and probably not getting as much salt/grime - But if anyone knows where to find them in stainless please let me know) 98965A310 Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Tee Nut M6 Internal Thread, 9mm Barrel Height, 4 Prong, Packs of 100 $14.80 92095A238 Metric 18-8 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screw M6 Size, 16 mm Length, 1 mm Pitch, Packs of 25 $6.66 93475A250 Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M6 Screw, 6.4mm ID, 12mm OD, 1.4-1.8mm Thickness, Packs of 100 $3.14 2958A135 General Purpose HSS Jobbers' Twist Drill Bit Black Oxide, 8.7mm Sz, 125mm L O'all, 81mm L Flute $5.82 If you're Just doing Heels, you need 8 tee-nuts, screws, and washers. Heels & toes - 16 Get a few extra in case threads lock up or tee nut teeth break (they will...) Also, Get a few shorter screws M6 x 12 or M6 x 10 - depending on which hole, a couple of the screws are just a little too long. 1} Remove the stupid plastic anchored screws with your #3 Philips head: 2) Drill Holes in your Brand New $450 boots (Mrs Tex was NOT happy with this step) 3) With the heel/toe unit OFF, Place the tee-nut inside the boot over one of the holes and crank it down (use the washers - don't want to run the screw head straight through the bottom of the boot) - this should lock the prongs into the plastic. 4) remove screws and install heel/toe unit - I am using Locktite Blue on the screws. 5) remember that your new boots have a MUCH shorter sole length than your old boots - adjust bindings accordingly. Finished Product: Edit- Please note that this setup WILL NOT WORK with Fintec Heels - they are specifically designed for M5 screws, and the M6 Tee nuts are too big in diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Be careful tightening the screws. - I overtorqued them on my first set and it cost me $65 for the replacement modules... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnar Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Nice modd! Wider washers on the screws might make it harder to overtorqued them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 yeah I'm checking into slightly wider washers - have to see what fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 the only other m6 stainless washers I could find were 18mm wide and didn't fit in the holes...12mm will have to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kumimajava Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 how much too big are they? if the difference is not much, i suppose you could just 'sand them down' bit. (e.g. take one m6 bolt, put a few washers on it, tighten them down with a nut, then just put the bolt-shaft into your powerdrill, rev it up & find a bit of sandpaper to grind them down against. that should keep them nice & round, too. not an elegant solution, but might work.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 good idea - I only had a zinc plated so I'll order the stainless and see what works. 91116A150 Metric 18-8 SS Large-OD Flat Washer M6 Screw Size, 6.4mm ID, 18mm OD, 1.4 - 1.8mm Thk, Packs of 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kumimajava Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 great, let us know how it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Man, is it my eyes or are those photos fuzzy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 next time i'll take up a collection and hire a professional photog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 so the 18mm washers didn't work. the 12's are a pretty good fit. don't overtorque. I said it before but it's worth repeating... the first post is the correct parts list. by the way - I lost some emails so if anyone wants tee nuts and washers let me know. I have 80 or so of each left over and I doubt 'll be doing this again. I have a few of the screws that I'll send to the first takers - GTanner, you've got first dibs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnar Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 How wide are the original screw heads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 yeah, definitly do not over-torque. what i do is that i usually check it on time-to-time basis. at one point, one of hte bolt was pushing up into my liner -- turns out it was loose and lost that bolt. so got it replaced and been trying to keep up to check to make sure its properly tight. i cant reckon when's the last time i use locktite on those -- i have the red one (the strong one) and might use 'em again. but then again, i have plans to purchase a second pair of UPZ boots and use it for dedicated to snowboard hardbooting while my current red UPZ boots is currently dedicated to skiing. figure it'd be better to have two same type of boots with same type of liner (thermo) to give my feet the familiarity as well as less hassle to swap 'em out from hardbooting to skiing and vice/versa. anyways, back to over-torquing -- be careful, i once accidentally overtorqued and the washer went thru the toe piece (hence the reason why i abandoned the snowboard hardboot toe pieces and left it there at all time with only rear sole swapping). so, careful there, mate. sorry it came out a bit late, tex, btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 How wide are the original screw heads? about 12mm they don't come with washers... If anyone wants the original screws for some reason, I now have 2 sets as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Dude, Im glad you post this up. I still can't find that bloody original paper with description (thanks to Carr!) of how-to. I dont know if I can save up enough money to get another set of UPZ considering I need to get parts for my bike as well as the race team at Copper. money money money, cant have enough of it to cover 'em ALL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 I just got a pair of the UPZ boots. What exactly does this little mod do? I am missing the point, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted July 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 the heel and toe pieces are held in by a large screw that goes directly into the plastic sole of the boot. I have heard nightmare stories of the failure of this metal/plastic interface. I love the idea of the boot (especially the ski/snowboard compatibility), but with the forces I put into a boot and binding, I'm not willing to risk my knees on an accidental release. This should significantly increase the strength of the attachment of the heel/toe modules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 One thing I noticed about doing this mod is YOU NEED STAINLESS T-NUTS! Doing the front toe screws is a total pain in the butt too. I found that a #10-24 T-Nut works well as far as fitting in the original screw holes WITHOUT drilling them out. Combine with a stainless #10-24 3/4" fastener. #10 Washer fits well into the old screw holes. *If you do the Fintec heels, go with a socket head cap screw for the heel assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Yeah I just did this to my UPZ RTRs in the 10-24 hardware after receiving my Fintec heels and TD3s. Annoying thing are that the 10-24 t-nuts have a slightly larger topcap than an M5 t-nut. Hence it is much harder to get into the two front holes in each boot. Much cursing, swearing, and holding of the tongue (mine not the boots) in just the right position was required. I agree with the comment about watching the torque, I initially used a 10-24 washer and with the tnut in place it ate through the toe piece like it was going through butter, fortunately it was one of the ones towards the rear of the module. A 6mm washer seems to have a diameter closer to that of the hole though. I secured all the screws with blue loktite. Tried them out last weekend. Ok Ok the binding I was riding on was a '94 O2 (fritsche) binding with 6 deg inward canting, but I was amazed at the difference. I spent a couple of hours riding around with a silly grin on my face giggling like a school girl. I my TD3s. Now its all lift no cant As an aside I discovered that there must be angels as the heel bail on my front foot of the old O2 binding had slid out of its hold and jumped forward a centimeter into another notch on the binding without my noticing. The last time I had a really close look at that binding was the beginning of the season, . I've been on that board three or four times since then:eek:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I have to tear apart my whole setup and see why only one of the pins on each Fintec heel retracts. I spent a good 15min tonight struggling to get off my snowboard. Thanks GOD I had my allen keys with me so I could poke the failing pins in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 bump for an edit - The heels have to be done in m5 hardware if you are using Fintec heels. More pics coming when I gather the hardware again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I couldn't find any metric T nuts locally. I tried the imperial route, and couldn't find stainless button socket caps....grrrr... So, I decided to purchase the metric M6 stuff locally, and order the T-nuts. I did find a company that will sell the M6 stainless T-nuts, but minimum order is 1000 pieces. I'll let you know what I find out. Anyone need any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Got the quote - $325 / 1000 for M6 pronged T-nuts in stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 i heard of this problem of the screws backing off or breaking, but in two seasons i have not had a problem. i did take the original hardware out and dabbed some loctite on everything. i like the t nut deal though. tex can u post a link to a good online hardware spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Brian from Custom Split board is hooking me up with stainless T nuts. If anyone needs any, you might do worse than trying him. Can easily google him, rather than me putting his info out there. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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