brice540iit Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hey all, i think this is my first thread. I'm a 200lbs agressive rider with some experience, i moved to QC Canada about 2 winters ago. I snowboard every week, last year i broke my Volant that i had for 2 years. And yesterday i cracked my 169 Burton Ultra prime at almost the same spot. It cracks (on the top sheet) behind my front bindings (TD1). What's the deal? Is it the cold weather, am i too heavy and agressive for those boards? Do i need to buy a more expensive board? Please help... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 both of those boards are pretty old. not surprising you'd crack them at some point. You can get a modern 2-3 year old board for about the same price you'll pay for a burton...check the "for sale" pages here or just post in the want to buy with your specs and budget. I'm sure you'll find something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmut Karvlow Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Get TD2's. all I can say without backlash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linus Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hey all, i think this is my first thread.I'm a 200lbs agressive rider with some experience, i moved to QC Canada about 2 winters ago. I snowboard every week, last year i broke my Volant that i had for 2 years. And yesterday i cracked my 169 Burton Ultra prime at almost the same spot. It cracks (on the top sheet) behind my front bindings (TD1). What's the deal? Is it the cold weather, am i too heavy and agressive for those boards? Do i need to buy a more expensive board? Please help... Thanks If you can ride UP without problems, you are not that aggressive. I can fold the nose of UP @170lbs. Tex might be right. I heard Volant is problematic. And UP is pretty soft for your weight. And also both of them are designed before this centry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinecure Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Combination of TD1s with boards that are somewhat fragile to begin with. Unlikely to happen with a modern Donek or Coiler, especially if you trade up to TD2s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brice540iit Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 well that UP lasted about 10 days... I wasn't aware that TD1's were prone to crack boards. I'm going to do a search on that but meanwhile, does anybody can tell me why they do break boards? So Donek or Coiler are better, about Prior? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinecure Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I would NOT use them on the new metal priors. Other ones probably OK. It is the small mounting disk. The TD2 spreads out the pressure more. Very few people broke boards with TD1s, and even then its debatable whether it was b/c of the TD1s or something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffh Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 My Ultra Prime almost killed me driving hard in powder one day. folded right in front of the front binding and sent me flying (right under the lift!). the UP is a piece of crap. I've had very good luck with my Donek 171 FC1. I've got well over 100 days on it and it's still fresh. BTW - I'm closer to 220. I'm sure the Coilers and Priors are up to snuff as well but have no personal experience with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I'm going to do a search on that but meanwhile, does anybody can tell me why they do break boards? Funny You Should ask: http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/boards_breaking.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 well that UP lasted about 10 days...I wasn't aware that TD1's were prone to crack boards. I'm going to do a search on that but meanwhile, does anybody can tell me why they do break boards? So Donek or Coiler are better, about Prior? I'm not slamming TD1's, but there seems to be a lot MORE examples of boards breaking while using them. Recently, a Tahoecarver stated that he broke two O'sin 4807's with TD1's. Everyone else that I know that rides a 4807 with different bindings is still riding their boards. Like other posters above: aggressive rider, over 200lbs on older boards, with TD1's...bad combo. Switch to TD2's and board breakage will reduce. I've seen first hand someone sticking the nose of their Virus board in soft snow, in that situation, any binding could cause that. Donek, Coiler and Prior are all top rated boards. --Hugh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 One of those boards broke because it was a Volant. That sounds like a jest, but it's not - I broke three in one season, and one of them broke on its first day. I believe Volant got out of the snowboard business because they couldn't figure out how to build them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brice540iit Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Ok, so it seems like the TD1's are causing this. I understand that the Volant was a older board (i liked the look of it!)and that they were never made to last but i had no idea that UP's were "fragile". In any case thanks a lot guys for your wise comments i guess i'll start looking for one of those better quality boards and swith to TD2's, anybody wants to sell me one?;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Two problems, first on is that you mentioned a Volant. The stainless top sheet ones failed if you looked at them wrong. Second and the main problem is that you are using TD1's on production boards. Combine that with being heavy and yes you will destroy boards. It's simple physics. You push on the binding, which in this case is a disk located towards the middle of the board. The snow pushes back at the edge. You now have created a lever from the edge, which is getting pushed one way and your TD1 disk, which is getting pushed in the other direction, and yes one day it will break between them. To solve this you can, ride less, loose weight, ride like a newbie, get custom boards with extra glass to hold up to the binding, or the easiest get different bindings. By the way TD2's don't have this issue. Sorry I know it's not what you want to hear, but it is the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brice540iit Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 i think i'm going to get TD2's. Don't feel like loosing weight, riding less or like a newbie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerdad Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 When I was riding with TD1's, I always made sure the bumpers were against the board in the static possition. They don't have a very good "fine tune" adjustment and, if they're not "tight", it leaves all the pressure against the base. If I remember right, they came new with some aluminum washers you could shim them with besides the two possitions. Before tightening the plates to the bases I liked to have the plates rock a little, side to side, showing that the bumpers were in good cantact with the board. This led to a few bumper screw dents in the board but, was better than big creases at the edge of the bases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 If you decide to get them new, get them through yyzcanuck.com, you won't have to bother with duties and such. BTW, were are you located in QC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brice540iit Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Montreal by the sea, just like you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 When I was riding with TD1's, I always made sure the bumpers were against the board in the static possition. They don't have a very good "fine tune" adjustment and, if they're not "tight", it leaves all the pressure against the base. If I remember right, they came new with some aluminum washers you could shim them with besides the two possitions. Before tightening the plates to the bases I liked to have the plates rock a little, side to side, showing that the bumpers were in good cantact with the board. This led to a few bumber screw dents in the board but, was better than big creases at the edge of the bases. Exactly! Yes, aluminum washer to "Tune" the bumpers. Keep in mind, early Bombers had a smaller diam cant disc and NO bumpers. It was probably during that period of time that the majority of failures occurred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 The bumpers are on the toe and heel of the binding. When you go to a heel side do you pressure directly out the back of your boot? This is the only place where the bumper will actually make a differance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerdad Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Most of the pressure seems to be transmitted to the board through the bumpers as evidenced by the wear marks left by the bumpers. If the bumpers aren't "tight", the bases will leave creases in the board more under the toes and heels than on the sides. Look at these marks left in one of my Coilers by the TD2 plate under my front heel. I can't figure out how the bindings and board flex enough to do this but they do. Edit: The two different marks are from the two different TD2 base plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brice540iit Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 To be honnest, i never really made sure the bumpers were tune properly, i guess i'll have to try that with my new board.... What do you mean by washers, do you have a pic of your set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerdad Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 The washers were the same OD as the bumbers and had a small screw hole in the middle, kind of like fender washers but made out of thicker aluminum. I don't have any TD1's anymore. I've gone to TD2's because of their 'cantability' and less stress to my boards' topsheets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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