Guest moa Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 I've got a board with a stance that is just a little bit on the narrow side. Has anyone had experience adding extra inserts? Can it be done or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 it was done in the late 80's because bindings were screwed from under for good... its not possible now, unless you are working very very carefully, and are able to drill the base with tight specs etc...check this small cutout i drew to explain the principle of how a board is made... you see that inserts are almost impossible to recreate after the board is finished.. http://www.swoard.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=14 Hope this helps... better switch for another board, or better, a custom board! Nils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 I disagree. you can t-nut extra inserts into any board. go to your local shop - they will probably do it for you. it will void your warranty and could weaken the structure of the board, so 1) make sure the guy drilling your board knows what he's doing, and 2) don't do it to your new custom deck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 hey :)i did not say it was impossible !... but since you cannot drill a hole big enough for the base of the insert, how are u doing it and have a strong insert from above... inserts with no base are not going to hold...i wouldn't ride a board with such weakness in the core... N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 looking for a picture - but you drill all the way through the board and insert a t-nut type device that sits flush to the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Stevens Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 You can order inserts with flared structure (a reallt beefy t-nut) which also has ptex bonded to the bottom. A special drill bit is used to counter sink the hole so the flared insert sits perfectly flush with the base. I bought a Salomon Fastback 74 on clearout which had a rediculously narrow 20 inch max stance. I added 4 more to the back end (powder board), have had no trouble and I have been watching for movement... nothing. I'm also 6'1'', 220 lbs so if I don't pull them out, it shouldn't happen to anyone else, short of pros on 100 footers and hackers ragging through the rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Dahl Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 Rob, tell us where to get 'em! I wish I had them when I split my last board, that woulda been so much easier than what I did to repair the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 This is really a minor issue... Using "commonly available" (to the engineering world) threaded inserts which have a slightly oversized base flange (warning! this is not a 'hardware store' item). Use a clearance hole for the body, shallow spotface for the shoulder. The spotface should go only deep enough to accept the shoulder and allow backfill of ptex patch. I've got a couple of boards like this. This does need to be somewhat precision work to preserve as much board integrity as possible. I'd really like to discuss further but I'm on business trip and dont have access to photos. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest moa Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 Hey thanks for the response. I know I shouldn't , but at present I'm securing four screws per binding, but they are secured to only half the disc (F2 intecs) with two large S/S washers on each screw (It's still a little narrow). I need four extra inserts, 2 front/2 rear. My main concern was adding stress outside a re-enforced area? So it looks like a good possibility from what you guys have posted. I'll get in touch with my local Guru & see if he can tackle it. Thanks again ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Its easy on a skwal but they r a lot thicker. the trick will be getting the depth right. your ski shop should have the countersink bit which does it all in one pass. If they don't two bits are required and very careful depth control. you gotta get it deep enough to ptex without cutting to much core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Dahl Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Moa, typically a board will have full length stringers of harder wood through the insert areas, so drilling those areas shouldn't be any problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Stevens Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Moa; Those inserts I bought were sourced from Wintersteiger. They come with the p-tex already on. You can get the counter-sinking bit from them too. Go that route and you won't have to worry about getting your depth wrong or having "afterthought" p-tex not bond to the bare metal of the t-nut. Otherwise, the operation was pretty straightforward... I took a 4 hole disk, attached it to the back 2 holes and used the empty space as a guide for where to strike with my awl. Once the pilot point was marked, I just drilled away. The bit provided goes to flat when you reach the prescribed depth, so it's tough to mess it up. I did get a friend to eyeball my straightness over the drill and that saved me from going in crooked... I thought I was straight, but I was a bit off. Good luck and don't blow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopetool Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Hey Moa - I've widened my stance by having my local shop install what is called "Heal-ly Coils." I have now idea how to spell it. And basically you can add more inserts to the pack. It was only $10 per hole. And it works great so far on my Rossi WC 190. Good luck. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Heli-Coil (the correct spelling I think) are screws on the outside with inserts on the inside. I wouldn't trust them as it is the same thing as putting a screw in the board with some epoxy, like skis and old board. T-nuts and inserts have a wide base and have to be installed from the bottom rather than from the top, and this is what makes them safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 I strongly second Derf's comment about not trusting helicoils in a board. I design military avionics and use helicoils (and other forms of threaded inserts, depending on situation) all the time in aluminum and other performance alloys. You must have a GOOD foundation for a true helicoil to be reliable. Wood, plastic, fiber layup are not suitable for long term safety. A well installed tee-nut is what you want if you are anything over a total wuss on a board! SOME versions of threaded inserts ARE designed for use in wood (but a true helicoil is not). These 'very soft material' inserts have a larger body diameter and a very coarse, deep external thread to get a better hold in soft materials. Best of luck. Remember... if your attachment fails you run the risk of literally twisting your leg off. Be safe, not cheap. I'm pulling for you... We're all in this together. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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