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Justin A.

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Hey Justin, did you talk to the dealer about it? Are you already familiar with adjusting derailleurs? If not, you might have to spend some time with the shop guy on the fine points of adjustment and gear combinations to avoid. A slight misadjustment of the front deraileur might cause the symptom you describe.

Or as others said, there could be flexing in the crank, spindle or frame, or all of them. It would be interesting to push down hard on the pedal with the brakes locked and have someone watch to see what is going on. The seatpost does see a bending load when you pedal, and I guess in theory it could cause this problem but I've never noticed it on any of my bikes.

Edit: I've learned a lot about bikes from this site, I didn't see anything specific to your problem though:

http://www.harriscyclery.com

(Look for the Sheldon Brown articles).

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That's a great site, Dave. I like the last line of the paragraph where they discuss some causes of the chain rubbing on the cage: "If all aspects of front derailleur adjustments are correct on this bike, the rider is simply exceeding the engineering and design capabilities of the machine." I think that's shop tech's diplomatic way of saying that you should have spent a little more :D

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Derf,

It's pretty easy to wreck a derailleur due to a missed shift. My wife was riding her Cannondale home from school a couple of months ago and somehow missed a shift in the front derailleur while travelling at a good clip. Snapped the rear derailleur (ultegra) off (the screw was still in the derailleur hanger surrounded by some aluminum), bent the front derailleur (ultegra) beyond repair, the chain got jammed in the rear wheel (mavic Ksyrium Elite) bending the chain beyond repair, two spokes were broken, the frame got a minor dent on the seatstay and her truvativ rouleur GXP carbon cranks were nicely scratched. Needless to say, that was an expensive repair - even though she works part time at a bike shop.

Derek

carveitup

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Derf,

Needless to say, that was an expensive repair - even though she works part time at a bike shop.

Derek

carveitup

I have spent a lot of time in Burlington bikes stores lately, (just bought a C'dale road) which store does she work in?

- Greg

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I have spent a lot of time in Burlington bikes stores lately, (just bought a C'dale road) which store does she work in?

- Greg

Greg,

I'm at Neworld Cycle on Plains Road on Friday evenings and the weekends. Which Cannondale did you get? I'm on an R1000 now and I love it!

Beth

carveitup.net

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I think I have seen you there, without the SB clothes and helmet, I couldn't figure out where I had seen you before.

I bought the Synapse 2 last week. I thought about the R1000, and almost bought

a used one in Burlington, couldn't quite justify the price of a new one. The slightly more upright frame of the Synapse was recommended for mature ;-) riders like myself.

BTW, I bought a condo out a Sun Peaks in BC, if you are ever thinking about going

out to BC, other than Whistler, we should talk.

You should be able to send me an email thru my profile page, I noticed yours is turned off.

- Greg

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Derf,

It's pretty easy to wreck a derailleur due to a missed shift. My wife was riding her Cannondale home from school a couple of months ago and somehow missed a shift in the front derailleur while travelling at a good clip. Snapped the rear derailleur (ultegra) off (the screw was still in the derailleur hanger surrounded by some aluminum), bent the front derailleur (ultegra) beyond repair, the chain got jammed in the rear wheel (mavic Ksyrium Elite) bending the chain beyond repair, two spokes were broken, the frame got a minor dent on the seatstay and her truvativ rouleur GXP carbon cranks were nicely scratched. Needless to say, that was an expensive repair - even though she works part time at a bike shop.

Derek

carveitup

It's just that in by cycling experience, I have never seen a front derailleur torn off, only a rear one. Maybe I'm not rough enough with my bike? ;)

Looking at le list of stuff, yeah, it must have been quite expensive! :freak3:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Derf, check out frameforum.net, and Suzy Jackson's page for a lot of good info, it might be easier to start out than you think. I'm building my first tandem frame right now using pieces from a frame that was never finished. I'm having to re-size it by lowering the top tube, and add the stays, it's a ton of work, but it's good practice and it keeps my mind off of waiting for winter.

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Hey Derf, check out frameforum.net, and Suzy Jackson's page for a lot of good info, it might be easier to start out than you think. I'm building my first tandem frame right now using pieces from a frame that was never finished. I'm having to re-size it by lowering the top tube, and add the stays, it's a ton of work, but it's good practice and it keeps my mind off of waiting for winter.

Thanks a lot for the info, I'll look into it. I already have tons of DIY links for recumbents in my bookmarks as it is what I want to build. I've seen some very impressive things up to now. The only problem now is space as I live in small appartment with my girlfriend and my tool space is pretty much maxed out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since the thread has slowed a bit, here's my progress so far on my tandem if anyone is interested. It'll look more like a bike after this weekend when hopefully I'll have the top tube brazed on and get started on the rear triangle. My girlfriend and I want to ride it in the Davis (CA) Foxy Fall century on October 15th, so I have a month and a half to finish it. No problem, right? :lol:

post-89-14184221916_thumb.jpg

post-89-141842219162_thumb.jpg

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Heh...nothing that fancy, it's just 4130 steel aircraft tubing, .035 wall thickness. I'm not sure about the engineering aspect, but according to my friend who designed the frame, good double-butted tubing is great for single frames because they see mostly bending loads, but tandems see mostly twisting loads so straight gauge is better. These same frames were sold in the late 80's to early 90's under the name "Ibis". They are well respected for handling, but not known for being light :o

Most people I talk to don't seem to think tandem weight is a big deal. I think this thing will weigh in at 40-45 pounds. About like a Schwinn Varsity with a rack full of textbooks :eek:

What is a 29'er? I've heard the term but can't figure out what it is.

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Most people I talk to don't seem to think tandem weight is a big deal. I think this thing will weigh in at 40-45 pounds. About like a Schwinn Varsity with a rack full of textbooks :eek:

What is a 29'er? I've heard the term but can't figure out what it is.

Or like a Schwinn Varsity that has been stripped to the bone.

A 29er is a bike with 29" wheels. Basically, Monster Bike. :biggthump

________

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Heh...nothing that fancy, it's just 4130 steel aircraft tubing, .035 wall thickness. I'm not sure about the engineering aspect, but according to my friend who designed the frame, good double-butted tubing is great for single frames because they see mostly bending loads, but tandems see mostly twisting loads so straight gauge is better. These same frames were sold in thelate 80's to early 90's under the name "Ibis". They are well respected for handling, but not known for being light :o

Most people I talk to don't seem to think tandem weight is a big deal. I think this thing will weigh in at 40-45 pounds. About like a Schwinn Varsity with a rack full of textbooks :eek:

What is a 29'er? I've heard the term but can't figure out what it is.

Wow, I've got an old late 80's Ibis!

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Heh...nothing that fancy, it's just 4130 steel aircraft tubing, .035 wall thickness.[...]

What is a 29'er? I've heard the term but can't figure out what it is.

All cromoly frames are 4130 steel or variations of it.

A 29er is a mountain bike with rims the same size a those of an hybrid bikes (700c) and big tires, so the outside wheel diameter is 29".

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A 29er is a mtn bike with 700c wheels, they are gaining popularity through out the nation. 29ers were available from custom mfrs. for a number of years but until Gary Fisher began to mass produce them they were virtually unknown. Essentially, any bike with 700c wheels could be considered a 29er, road bikes, cross bikes, hybrid bikes whatever bikes that run a 29" wheel. A few custom mfrs are producing a 29/26 model. YOu have a 29' wheel on the front and a standard 26" wheel on the back. I would like to try one of these also.

I am very familiar with Ibis, I've never owned one but have dreamed many times of owning one. I myself prefer the ride of a good steel frame, I currently own a Jamis Dragon (Reynolds 853) and also a Lemond road bike made out of 853 also. I have a full suspension bike but most of the mfrs prefer to make the dual boingers out of aluminum.

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There were some mountain bikes with 700c wheels in the mid nineties and a pro racer even raced one, but it didn't catch on. I recall Panaracer making the Smoke in that size back then.

I like steel frames also, that's why I still have a 1994 Rocky Mountain Equipe as a mountain bike. It is made out of Tange Ultimate Ultralight tubing.

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