bschurman

Seems easier to me to get a new heels/cables from Bomber if something breaks then to get a new binding part from the manufacterer that make the fast bindings. Plus the Intec system has a much lower profile then the FAST. Plus, I don't see that the Intec is not any worse then the FAST just seems like two things that do the same thing in reverse. I have the Intec heels on the TDs and they work great.

I have the wider AM, 21.5cm waist, but I would suspect that would only really effect the edge to edge quickness and that Bruce handles the torsional stiffness. In carves great, however, there are situations where I would much rather have one of my other boards. The Race Carve is a carve centric board and it's great to have all the edge length with turney sidecut. I did the same thing that you did last year. I got the Race Carve and then orderd the Pure Race 184 the next day and then I ordered the AM and the 196 to replace my Burner. I sold the Burner after I rode it once since I was worried about breaking the tail and I know that Bruce makes 'em better anyway. I think that I am all set with Coilers for now but you never know what I might think of. The waiting is the hard part but it is so worth it. ->Ben

Sorry to stick my nose in here but I thought I could offer a comparision for you since I own a Race Carve 180, the Pure Race II 184 and the 177 AM. Mike, I think that you find the Race Carve is exactly what are looking for the steep and narrow. The AM is great and it edges great, but Bruce can change that by increasing the weight of the biax fabrics in the AM. I had him make mine a edge a little better on the east coast hard pack because, well, that is usually what I ride but I wanted something good in the soft stuff. The AM excels at that but I find mine not as good on the steep stuff as my Race Carve. Now for your rocketship, I also have a 196 PR and it is awesome. I would recommend you get it for your rocketship. Fantastic ride and you could run over a ski school kid and never notice. ;) I got the 17+ sidecut with the superboard and it is my favorite board if the conditions are right for it. ->Ben

Bobby, Congrats on your new Coiler. I too just recently received a couple new Coiler toys to add to my others and they are absolutly phenominal boards. I would say that everyone should own at least one. Definitely worth the wait. Plus, Bruce is a pleasure to deal with throughout the entire process. Oh, you should take your AM to Mike in Framingham and have him tune that bad boy up for you. It will feel better then new once he is done with it. ->Ben

Always use lube! It's just a better overall experience. On your binding parts, of course. :D

Anyone headed out to brave the cold once again?

There is a second board kit avaliable. I asked Michelle about it but I just didn't pull the trigger. I think it was $98 but I'm not too sure about that. Just send an email to Michelle and ask about it. When the new bindings are avaliable I think they will have the kits. ->Ben

In my 123s I drilled out the plastic and then I put in the T-nuts that come with the Intec heels. I also use the hex head screws that were mentioned in an earlier post. Holds much tighter and no chance of stripping the head out of the bolt. ->Ben

Glad to see you on the group! I hope you get out on the TD2s soon, I'm sitting here just waiting for the snow. This is the guy that got me on hardboots so many years ago, 11 years now. Hope to see you on the slopes this winter, I will be up at Bretton Woods when I can. ->Ben

If you're getting them with the Thermo liner then I would suggest getting the 28s. The only way to really tell is get the 28 and put your foot in the shell and use your fingers to measure. ->Ben

The 3* and one 6* disk and bumpers have been sold. I still have one 6* disk for sale. Anyone....?

As promised, I have attached a photo of the cant disks that I have for sale. Currently I have two 6* and one 3* for sale. I also have 1 purple bumber for 3* and 6* and a bastard 6* for the rear of a binding only with washer. Please email me at: ben -at- bogeydog dot net if you are interested in any of them. I am looking for $15 a piece on the cants and $5 each on the bumbers. The bastard one is free if you pay shipping. Thanks, ->Ben

The bindings have been sold but I still have some cants and bumbers. I will post in a new thread a picture and full inventory when I get home tonight. Thanks, ->Ben

but it will have to wait until I get home. I will post them later of the bindings and the cants. Yes, the cants will fit both a Burton 3 hole pattern and any 4x4 hole pattern. ->Ben

I have a pair of TD1 Step ins for sale. They were new last year and have about 5 days on them total. No real wear to them at all. I am looking for $200 which includes shipping for them. They come with your choice of 3 or 6 degree cants and all hardware plus medium bumbers. I will also throw in the extra cants that I have, but what they are depend on what you choose for the binding. I currently have 2 extra 3* and 3 extra 6* cants. I also have some extra purple bumbers kicking around that I will throw in too. I have a lots of extra hardware too if you need it for them. Please email me at ben at bogeydog dot net if you are interested. Thanks, ->Ben

I ran into the same problem with boot sizing last year, but if you buy what your foot measures in cm, you will find them to be snug. Don't worry as they will pack out a bit and the Thermflex liner has to be molded to your foot. You want the boot to be snug but not cut off your foot circulation. Your toes should touch the front of the boot when standing but not be crushed into the front. When you lean forward your toes will pull back from the front. The only way to tell is to take out the liners and put your bare foot in the shell and put your toes all the way to the front of the boot (once again, not crushed up there) and then place your fingers (stacked on each other not beside each other) behind your heel. If you can get one but not two back there then you have the right size, if you can't get even one back there then they are too small. If you can get more then two fingers then they are too big. I believe that bomber will allow you to send back boots that you feel don't fit as long as the liner has not been molded and they have not been ridden. As for the bindings. I would get 3* on both front and back and see how you like that. If you want another disk just buy the one you want and sell the one you don't like on the classifieds. You shouldn't really lose too much on that deal. I would also get the step-ins as they are very convienent to use. These are only recommendations and I don't really know much, but there are others here that know a ton and why you should get what they recommend. ->Ben

I got an interesting email from Bruce today about a conversation that he had with Jasey Jay yestersday discussing boards and the different constructions. I personally find board construction for different situations extremely interesting, so maybe there are others out there that do too. I did get Bruce's permission to post it so I am posting it below. ->Ben <i> "Mostly we talked about the effect of the dampening on the different boards as it looks like different conditions need the different dampening at that level of competition. At the indoor event he found the superboard slalom board was too damp and it detracted from the pop needed to get through the relatively straight easy course. He used his regular World Cup construction board and found it worked just fine. He made a small mistake on the 2nd run but still qualified fastest then got knocked out by Grabner by 3/100ths in the round of 8. Too bad, it would have been awesome if he and Adam made it to the finals! All North American final in Europe! Oh well, maybe next time. The GS superboard is definitely his favorite for that aspect of racing as he stated it is superior. He also figures that for steep icy slalom courses the superboard construction will be the ticket as control rather than pop is necessary to get down fastest. No doubt the areas to concentrate on now are materials for dampening vs rebound. Getting it right on a board that will work best in the widest variety of conditions will be the goal. He mentioned that other European riders had some interesting designs incorporating carbon which worked well but were still not totally refined so it looks like it is now going to be a materals battle as well as just the overall flex, twist,sidecut and stiffness equation. I'm pretty well placed at this time as I now know what to put in to make it not damp enough or too damp so its just a balancing act now and there certainly will be some new stuff I come up with at some point. Oh well, every year I figure there is nothing left to learn but I'm so used to being wrong about that , I now expect to come up with something new at some time during the year." </i>

You could send a money order to Bruce that you got with your cash to pay for the board or a cashiers check. Either way, "they are money which is just as good as cash." ->Ben

but I would say 3 degres both front and back for canting and start with the medium elastomer. Also, I would suggest the step-ins. They are oh so convenient. ->Ben

Thanks, ->Ben

I have been known to create a little sawdust in my shop. I don't have any real projects going right now but I do have a lot of things to make in my house. ->Ben

If you could send me an email at ben at bogeydog dot net and we can work out the details. Thanks, ->Ben

They changed over on Thursday night to coininside with the release of the new TD2.

I have the heels in the attached picture for sale. Most are off the AF 600 or 700 but the green ones are from 123s and have the smaller holes for the screws. They are all new except one set which was worn once but there is little to no wear. $5.00 a set plus shipping.

How much would you pay for the said 123s with Thermoflex liners (molded once), smartfeet insoles, Intec heels or not and a "race" version of the booster strap? These boots have been worn once. They feel a little small in the toe box area for me. ->Ben